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Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then stalls

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Henry

05-29-2003 18:10:05




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I have a 14.5 HP Briggs & Stratton Model 287707 Type 1224-E1 Motor with a walbro carb in an Ace brand riding mower. It was running good for about 8 hours mow time this spring. Mowed last week and it died when I was almost done maybe an hour mow time. Would restart and run for about 20 seconds and dies. Now I can get it to run when cold for about 2-3 minutes and then it shuts off. Last year I had the same problem and had the carb rebuilt. It ran good for a while and now this. I have a new battery, have removed the gas cap and tried that and have pretty fresh gas in it. I also have a shutoff valve in the gas line to shut off the flow and moderate gas if needed. Heeeelllllppppp!! Thanks in advance.

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Tony

05-29-2003 20:35:44




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 Re: Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then stalls in reply to Henry, 05-29-2003 18:10:05  
If you had the carb rebuilt properly you sure don't need to moderate the flow. I would question the technical skill of anyone who would suggest that. I'm assuming you have a gravity feed system on this machine. If so, the purpose of the shut-off is to relieve the presure on the needle & seat when the engine is not running. Therefore eliminating the possibility of filling the crankcase with fuel, if the needle leaks. Now as to your problem. You didn't say anything about a line filter. If you have one, change it, if you don't install one. Your problem may not be fuel related at all. Check for spark immediatly after it stops. If you don't have a spark the armeture/magneto may have a break in the wiring that seperates when it heats up. The a/m could also have a bad ground. It is grounded through the two screws that hold it on the engine, and may need to be cleaned with a Scotch pad. If you remove the a/m (it's located next to the flywheel under the housing) you will need a .010" plastic shim to reistall it. The plastic that a two liter soda bottle is made of is just the right thickness. Just put the shim next to the flywheel magnets, line up the two legs of the a/m with the magnets (it will attach to them magnetically) install and tighten the screws. If you have a good spark go to an auto parts store and get a can of carb cleaner and a can of Seafoam.
Try the Seafoam first. If it works your done, if not, the following is best accomplished if you remove the carb. Remove the bowl nut & the bowl of the carb. Use a magnifying glass to check the main jet & the nozzle in the carb. Both can be accessed by removing the bowl of the carb. The main jet is the small brass plug in the side of the post that is in the middle of the float. It has a small hole in it. The nozzle is inside the post. when removing the nozzle be sure to have a straight blade screw driver with a square end, that just fits the hole. This will prevent you from ruining the nozzle. If you don't have one, grind one down to fit. If you find debris in either one of these items clean it out and then check the tank & lines. In defense of the person that cleaned your carb last year, if you left fuel in the system over the winter it could very well have varnished up again. Fuel now days can only be considered fresh for 30 days. If you don't buy it from a top of the line station it's probably over 30 days old when you buy it. That's why it's cheaper from cut rate stations, they buy the fuel that the others turn down. Good luck, hope this helps
Tony

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Henry

06-07-2003 13:43:40




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 Re: Re: Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then stall in reply to Tony, 05-29-2003 20:35:44  
Well I took the thing apart and made sure everything was clean, carb, filter, etc. per posts here. As I was checking things, out I heard this little clicking noise. It appears the noice was the fuel solinoid (connects to the bottom of the carb bowl. At least it is how it is described in the B&S break out sheet for parts. It connects back through the main solinoid. So I jiggled the line and sure enough it made it click. I broke apart the connection at the fuse and put it back together and jiggled more. The niose went away so I tried to turn over the engine. It ran and I jiggled more without any noise or cutting out. I ran it for about two hours and cut the lawn without problems. Any sggestions? Replace the electrical connection? Thanks for the help so far. BTW, the fuel line valve is for shutting off during winter not regulating flow. Thanks
Henry

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Tony

06-10-2003 22:54:32




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 Re: Re: Re: Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then s in reply to Henry, 06-07-2003 13:43:40  
I'm sorry I should have thought about the fuel shut-off solenoid. I'm not familiar with the brand of tractor that you have, but on most tractors I've worked on the solenoid is controled by the ignition switch, either directly or through a relay. The purpose of the solenoid is to stop fuel flow when the ignition is turned off. This is done to make sure the engine doesn't run on (diesel) if there is red-hot carbon in the engine. That reminds me, always run the engine at full throttle. The throttle lever is just for shutting it down. At part throttle these small engines don't atomize the fuel properly, overheat, carbon up and just plain don't run right. When the ignition switch is on you should have power at the solenoid. When you turn on the ignition key, you should hear a click at the carb (solenoid). If you also hear a click (a very faint one) somewhere between the switch & the carb, you probably have a relay in the circuit also. If it stops again I would look for 1. Bad connection or broken wire 2. A bad ignition switch or a bad relay (if you have one). If it stops again,you can make sure you're not barking up the wrong tree by jumping a wire from the positive post of the battery to the solenoid. If it runs then, you definitely have an electrical problem. Don't leave the wire connnected to the solenoid after you shut it off or you'll eventually run the battery down . Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I've been out of town. Good luck.
Tony

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MJM

05-29-2003 19:03:52




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 Re: Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then stalls in reply to Henry, 05-29-2003 18:10:05  
Nothing left but the ignition. When it stalls out check for spark at the plug. Try priming it to see if it will restart. Good luck



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Charles

07-04-2003 02:25:10




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 Re: Re: Briggs Stratton-runs when cold then stall in reply to MJM, 05-29-2003 19:03:52  
You might want to check the valve clearance. Overhead valves don't have much clearance (.002 on intake and .004 on exhaust). When an engine is running and generating heat, metal parts expand. If the intake valve is improperly adjusted, it's possible when the engine is hot for it to become closed completely, thus not allowing fuel to the cylinder.



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