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When you have the clutch on the bench, it should have drag when you turn it, and then none when you engage it. The drag is the internal braking mechanism that stops the clutch and blades from turning when they shouldn't. When you engage it, it releases that brake, and allows the clutch to turn freely witht he engine. If you had it on the engine, it would turn with the engine crankshaft. You can have 1 of 2 problems. A shorted magnet coil in the clutch, or a failing charging system or battery on your mower. Before you replace the clutch, check the amp draw of it. Turn it on and see how many amps it pulls. I have an amp guage you set over the power wire that works good for this, available at most auto parts stores. Shouldn't be more than 4 or 5 amps. If it is, the magnet coil is shorting, and you'll have to replace it. Its probably drawing more than your charging system can put back in the battery. If its good, then check the battery and charging system on your mower. You need 13+ volts with the engine at full throttle, and a good battery. Also make sure the wire connections to the clutch are clean and tight. With the mower belt off the clutch, you can run the engine and turn it on, and put a voltmeter on your battery. See if the voltage stays at 13 or higher. If it doesn't, the magnet is shorted, or there is a problem with the tractor wiring. You'll have to stay seated on the seat for this, as the safety switch will shutdown the machine if you get off with PTO engaged. If the clutch can't get enough power from your battery and chargin system, it won't stay engaged or engage fully.
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