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Disc harrow basics

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VPinSC

02-02-2000 15:14:24

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I've got a little piece of property (heaven) where I plant food plots for deer & turkeys, keep bees, manage a pond for my kids & I to catch fish, and try to raise timber. I have a '69 Ford 2000 and have been doing most of the planting work with a disc harrow. Question is - should I use stabilizers on the 3-pt with the DH? Also where should the draft control lever be set? Pretty basic questions, but I get conflicting answers from the local "experts".

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Burrhead

02-05-2000 13:02:05

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Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to VPinSC, 02-02-2000 15:14:24

I read all these others too, and it just aint right. Forget the trailer type instructions you keep getting here and pull the disc like a cultivater. It will need stabilizers on it and lifted to turn sharp turns, or turn arounds. Without the stabilizers or chains tightened up pretty short the 3 point disc will not stay planed into the ground, it will walk to one side and not cut right. If you're only over seeding the land you don't need a heck of a lot of sophisticated instructions about how to run trailer disc and conservation programs. These folks are giving you some wonderful advice, but wonderful as it is, it don't answer what you've asked.
I've got disc here from 5' to 40' and all disc don't operate alike or even similar.

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Tim (UT)

02-03-2000 12:24:50

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Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to VPinSC, 02-02-2000 15:14:24

A disk that's connected to the 3pt hitch is only using the 3pt hitch to raise and lower the disk. There's no draft involved - nothing. Well, I supposed if you got stuck, it is nice that you can just lift the disk up to get out...

The other alternatives are: 1)disks that "open and close" so the the disks run straight until you get to the field. 2) disks that are drawbar pulled and have wheels on them that raise and lower with a remote hydraulic cylinder.

Actually, the "looser" the connection is between the tractor, the better. (to a point). You want some flexing there so that when you go around a corner and/or over the top of a hill, things will flex some.

Tim

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paul

02-03-2000 12:51:42

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Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Tim (UT), 02-03-2000 12:24:50

Actually, I have all 3 types of disk you mention, Tim. Just got a 19' (or so?) JD on wheels a couple years ago. Used an old IH 12/14' pulltype without wheels be4 that, and have a 12' single gang 3-point on the Ford 960.

When you get stuck with the pull type, you're stuck. Nothing you can do. When you get stuck with the JD, the wheels squish in & you're stuck too.

In a couple of wet years I've done most all my spring tillage with the Ford & 3-point disk. It really packs up dirt, but doesn't get stuck. When you lose traction, pick ot up & drive out. All the weight is on the rear wheels of the tractor where it does some good.

Without stablizers, it slaps around a lot while driving out to the field. In the ground it doesn't make a whole lot of difference.

--->Paul

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Dave in Mo

02-03-2000 09:26:18

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Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to VPinSC, 02-02-2000 15:14:24

I don't know about the other guys but I put in 3 acres a year for wildlife and I drag a tandem disc behind our 8N in 2nd or 3rd gear after we've plowed. The disc is about 7' wide (2 rows of 10) and cost $400 new. It's about all the tractor can pull comfortably. With little plots like yours & mine you don't need much. Anti-sway bars are not necessary (although aweful cheap) and I don't use draft control. I just drop the lift all the way down and go. I guess you must broadcast your food plot seed and fertilizer/lime by hand. That sounds like a bigger job to me.

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VPinSC

02-03-2000 15:39:28

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Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Dave in Mo, 02-03-2000 09:26:18

Dave, I use a Four wheeler with a pull behind spreader to broadcast seed and fertilizer. Works fine if you've got help doing all the lifting. Thanks for the comeback.

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Aaaaaaron

02-02-2000 15:23:28

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Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to VPinSC, 02-02-2000 15:14:24

I guess I'll plead ignorance on the stabilizers, as our disc is 21' wide and is hooked to the drawbar. I'd set the draft control so that when you are at depth, the tractor moves. You don't want a lot of slipage (wheels spinning), so set it so the disc stays close to the depth you want it and you are moving at the speed you want to move at. Our disc works best at speeds around 6 to 7 mph, but I'm guessing the smaller ones work better at lower speeds. It's kind've a trial and error process.
Aaron

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jon bogden

12-19-2000 09:54:22

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Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Aaaaaaron, 02-02-2000 15:23:28

send me info on tractor slipage for my science fair project.

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paul

02-02-2000 18:39:37

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Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Aaaaaaron, 02-02-2000 15:23:28

I prefer stablizers, but should work either way.

Aaaaron must not have many rocks where he lives. Wow, 7 mph. I don't think the 19' disk would last 2 rounds at that speed.... :)

--->Paul

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Aaron

02-02-2000 19:10:07

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Re: Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to paul, 02-02-2000 18:39:37

Live in east central Iowa, and we do have our share of rocks. You should see the front set of gangs. Bent up mess. The only reason we pull it at 7 is the IH in front of it. Just sweet riding along with that 1066 and that 21' disc. Run in low 4th direct, around 6.5 or so.
Aaron

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Tim(nj)

02-02-2000 19:43:01

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Aaron, 02-02-2000 19:10:07

I have a 10' JD KBA disk that I picked up at a sale a few years ago. Had to weld the front gangs back on. Seems the guy had his share of rocks (as do I) and pulled the thing with a 4020 (turbo, no less!), probably in 7th gear, with a packer hooked to the back. I pull it and a spike harrow with a stock 4020, but don't go like a rocket sled with it, around 4 mph. Slow, but works fine for the amount of disking I need to do at the moment. I just keep reminding myself how cheap I got it and how much money I'll make on the ear corn.

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Gerald J.

02-03-2000 00:07:14

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Tim(nj), 02-02-2000 19:43:01

I pull a 14' JD BW disk at 5.5 mph (5th gear) in plowed ground with my gas 4020. I can see the weeds being winnowed (e.g. tossed higher in the air than the dirt). I make a second pass up a gear at about 8 mph and then I can really see the weeds being winnowed. Weeds on top are going to die. Weeds in the ground will grow again. And with dual tires on the disk it takes the same cylinder extension for hitting the hubs the first pass and going in only 4" the second pass. I did 120 bu corn with only $14.85 in fertilizer last year. I think I'm making a decent seed bed.

Gerald J.

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Burrhead

02-02-2000 16:33:53

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Re: Re: Disc harrow basics in reply to Aaaaaaron, 02-02-2000 15:23:28

You're right on the slower the better.
The way I do for seeding is to let all the angle out of the disc and weight it down good. Pull it as deep as you can without spinning out. With or without the stabilizers you still need to raise the disc when turning. Without the stabilizers the disc will walk out of line with you and not stay in full contact to the ground.

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