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Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler

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Tom A (Middleto

07-10-2000 03:24:13

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Bought a MF 10 baler last week. Appears to be in good shape but when I tried it out, both needles broke before I'd made 10 bales. Previous owner said baler was working fine when it was parked in the barn several years ago, though it hadn't been touched since...I bought 'as is.'

I think I see rust along the fracture line on both needles, indicating there may have been existing cracks. A neighbor with a lot of baling experience came over and said the bale density setting was way too tight--making the bales 'close to wood' in hardness and says that's what caused the needles to break.

New needles are $135 apiece from MF dealer. I don't want to put them on to find out that there's something else breaking them besides existing cracks and too-tight bales. Any thoughts/suggestions on what and how to check? (or perhaps a cheaper source??) I've ordered an operator's manual from MF but it won't show up for about a month.

I'd appreciate you baler experts' advice!
thanks,
Tom

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acmike

07-11-2000 05:18:37

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Re: Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler in reply to Tom A (Middletown MD), 07-10-2000 03:24:13

I sure hope you weld the needles instead of buying new ones each time.

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Burrhead

07-10-2000 12:27:42

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Re: Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler in reply to Tom A (Middletown MD), 07-10-2000 03:24:13

Wow if a MF needle is that high I would carry them to a machine or welding shop and have the old ones fixed.

Your neighbor could very well be right. Somebody probly went by and twisted the tensioners down while the baler was sitting there empty. I'm assuming that the chains are'nt broken and it's in time. Baling too tight does break alot of needles.

Empty out all the grass from the baler, and when you get the needles replaced or repaired do this.

Put the needles back in and don't tighten the needle adjustment bolts. Just snug it down so the needle is'nt loose.

Get someone to turn the baler over by hand for you. Trip the baler and let them turn it up so the needle is in the very top position. Now adjust the needles so that they are just so ever lightly rubbing the knotter frame.

You don't want the needle to drag when it is placing the twine, but it has to touch really really lightly.

Then you should have about 1/8" clearance between the needles and the twine disc. The twine disc is where the end of the twine stays caught when the needles go back down.

Completely loosen the bale density adjustments at the rear of the bale chute. Run a few bales through the normal cycle without tension to be sure everything is adjusted right.

If all is well just enjoy the baling season now.

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larry

07-10-2000 18:10:38

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Re: Re: Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler in reply to Burrhead, 07-10-2000 12:27:42

One other thing the brake must hold needles out of bale chamber when the plunger is stuffing the bale. The brake is the disk with pads on each side. The brake can stik or fail but I often find that new owners oil or grease the brake so it won't work. The brake MUST be tight enough to hold in a bumppy field.

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larry

07-10-2000 18:13:40

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Re: Re: Re: Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler in reply to larry, 07-10-2000 18:10:38

My friend broke a needle when a piece of wood stuck in the plunger.

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Burrhead

07-12-2000 05:10:40

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Help: breaking $135 needles on MF 10 baler in reply to larry, 07-10-2000 18:13:40

Yessir you're right the foreign objects will destroy a baler.

I'm rebuilding the tine chamber and tines on mine now. I picked up about half a wooden fence post and man did it do somemore damage.

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