Grading with a 3 point snow blade

I've added weight to mine also. I use two pieces of steel angle held in place with c-clamps. It adds about 200#. I also extend the top link to maximum...this gives the blade more "bite". Angle the blade and make a single pass. Then, with the blade still angled, make a half-pass. Your initial pass will guage the next pass, and so on. After you grade in one direction, turn and grade perpendicular. It's a slow process, which is best performed with a dozer, although it can be done. Also, I try to break up the soil first with a cultivator. This really helps.

Good luck!

You don't actually want it locked ridgid, that wouldn't work out. Leveling ground with a blade is a long slow process to do it right.

I have a 960 with a 8' blade, just worked on the driveway today, as well as in the cow yard.

Angle the blade, more is better. Move the dirt over to one side, then back to the other with the angle. Just run laps up & down the driveway with the blade angled.

If you are trying to move dirt from point A to point B, well, a back blade isn't the best tool, but you can do it - it will just be slow work.

If you are trying to level a bigger area, use the angled approach on a bigger scale. :)

To finish off, I turn the blade around & use it backwards (aimed backwards, but drive forwards) make a few passes that way to really smooth things off.

The tractor moves up & down as the front & rear wheels go over bumps. Making the blade ridgid creates more & more bumps - never get things leveled off. The secret is angling the blade, that gets rid of the bumps.

--->Paul

The only way I can get rid of the waves is to angle the blade so it pushes dirt to one side a bit. More angle seems better. Then hit the ground in different directions. It will level out eventually.

An angled blade will hit the waves at different spots, & pull them apart. If you leave the blade straight, it just goes up & down over the waves, not really changing them.

--->Paul