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Cutting and baling

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Kevin

04-09-2001 16:32:49




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Well, the spring auction season is here and I've decided to go out and look for some baling/cutting equipment. Through watching the list I think I know what I need to find a baler. But I am curious about the sickle/rake vs. haybind. If I cut with a sickle bar will my hay dry faster and perhaps be ready to row and bale the next day? The haybind seems like a good idea but I may still have to rake ... correct? I guess I see alot of other uses around here for a sickle also. Are sickles a high maintenance item and pretty trouble free?

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dave(ne)

04-11-2001 12:40:50




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
I use a sickle bar on my hay and in 90+ degree low humidity weather I can cut my hay one day and rake and bale the next. I don't think a haybine can do any better than that. Now alfalfa is a whole different story. I wish I had a haybine for that. With a sickle bar mower it takes a min of 3 days drying. So it depends on what you are cutting.



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Charlie

04-11-2001 18:46:04




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 Re: Re: Cutting and baling in reply to dave(ne), 04-11-2001 12:40:50  
Drying time makes a difference if its grass or alfalfa or clover and it makes a diffence with its young and tender vs old and almost dry before its cut. I've known guys to wait until hay was so over matured it was practically dry when it was cut. Also, a hay tedder is worth a day saved for drying in almost any hay no matter what you cut it with.



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JD70Jim

04-11-2001 14:39:26




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 Re: Re: Cutting and baling in reply to dave(ne), 04-11-2001 12:40:50  
Back in the late 60s/ early 70s we used a JD#5mower and a JD32 crusher to cut hay. Once, we were out cutting in 98* July weather, and saw a neighbor using a moco. Our hay was laid flat, conditioned, and dried to perfection in 24 hours. We baled the next day. The neighbor saw us baling and of course went to do his, but his wasn't ready yet. It rained that night. He sure was wondering how we did it and he couldn't. Of course His hay was windrowed too...

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B.C.

04-10-2001 14:14:22




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
I agree with what most everyone else has said. I would like to add that if you cut with a sickle bar and then condition later like I do there are several disadvantages.

First it's that much more time over the field.

Second, if you have heavy hay or you don't get at it right away, the conditioner rolls will start plugging when you attempt it.

If you've got 30 hp or better (40 or so would be really nice, with live pto and at least one hydraulic valve operable) and if you can afford it, go for the mower condtioner.

You'll probably have 1500 or more stuck in it, but it'll save you some time and you can probably get most of it back should you sell it anytime soon.

The only real advantage of doing it separately is that when you hit the rock, you aren't smashing up quite so much money in one place.

And you should count on raking at least once, no matter what.

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Roy B

04-10-2001 07:22:32




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
Kevin While my NH 450 sickle bar mowing machine works very well, I never want to use it again since I got a mower/conditioner. A serviceable 7' cut mo/co sells, in this area, for close to the price of a good mowing machine. My advice is to spend a little more on your mower and baler and go with a little cheaper tedder and rake. 24 hp will run a NH 472 7' haybine, maybe not at 7,5 mph but fast enough to out cut my mowing machine. Good luck. Roy

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Charlie

04-10-2001 05:33:53




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
I used to cut about 20 acres with a mowing machine and a second trip over the field with a hay crusher. I finally got enough money to buy a haybine. One of the big advantages of a haybine that hasn't been mentioned yet is it works a lot better in downed and twisted hay than a mowing machine. A mowing machine works well in nice standing hay but is a real pain when the hay has been knocked down due to weather. Clover has a tendency to be flat even in good weather.

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Kurt

04-10-2001 03:08:27




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
It may be too obvious to mention, but the size of your tractor may impact your plans. I've been haying with a sickle mower because my tractors are 30hp or less and a haybine (even a 7' model) would be too much for them to handle. (On the bright side, this is perfect justification for collecting another tractor.)

Last year I bought an old crimper ($150) to condition the hay after it's cut. That's really what the haybine is doing anyway, I'm just getting one more trip around the field on my tractor seat. Another option for you.

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paul

04-09-2001 19:57:15




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
I agree with the others.

For top quality alfalfa, you would want the conditioner unit. In addition to squeezing the hay, it breaks stemmy plants every inch or two, allowing the juice to dry out the broken ends, rather than traveling all the way to the end of the stem.

In humid areas with lots of rain, you want the conditioner - it speeds up drying and helps you to miss the rain.

In arid climates or grass hay, especially thin-stemmed grasses, the sickle mower might be better - the conditioner won't do a whole lot for you.

The conditioner is more expensive & takes more money to keep running. It seems to be a bit safer - kids & critters tend to run away from the big spinning reel, while birds & cats tend to hide from the tractor & get their legs cut off with the sickle mower.

As you guessed, the sickle mower is better for trim work.

You'll really need a rake either way - while a conditioner looks like it piles the hay in a windrow, it still needs to be turned once, and any rain at all & you will need to rake once or twice. It's best to set the conditioner to spread a wide windrow if you are baling the hay. Tight windrows are only good for haylage (like corn silage) where the alfalfa doesn't need to dry down much.

--->Paul

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AGEN

04-09-2001 18:43:07




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
I agree with everything TomH says...and want to add my to cents. The mower-conditioner with speed up the drying process, especially in thick grass. The rollers crush out all the juice in the stems, allowing for faster drying. (much like squeezing out a washcloth before letting it dry vs. just hanging in up to dry) Also, the sickle will just lay the grass down flat on top of itself, with the top grass covering/shading the bottom grass, whereas the conditioner with crimp the grass so its all "kinked" up and none of it lays flat, allowing for better airflow and faster drying. Of course, the mower conditioner will be considerably more expensive than a simple sickle mower. It all depends how big of a hurry you are in when making hay. You'll have to rake either way. Both options sound like good'uns to me though.

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TomH

04-09-2001 16:49:56




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 Re: Cutting and baling in reply to Kevin, 04-09-2001 16:32:49  
You will have to rake either way you cut - sickle or mower-conditioner (haybine). Let it dry a couple of hours after you rake before baling. A haybine might help it dry faster, main advantage is it cuts faster with less tendency to clog, the rollers pull the hay away from the knife and keep it from falling onto the unmowed grass. Sickle is nice for trimming, especially if you get a pitmanless that can cut at an angle, up or down banks. Keep dogs and children away.

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