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How to sharpen a sicklebar mower?

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Tom A

06-28-2001 04:53:27




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Bought an old Ford 501 sicklebar mower last year, and have mowed a few acres with it since. It's still cutting clean now, but I want to be ready when it needs sharpening. So I have a few questions:

1) How often should one of these things need sharpening?
2) Do I wait for it to show tearing of the hay rather than a clean cut before I sharpen, or is there an earlier indication that it needs sharpening?
3) How do I sharpen--is it something I can do myself, or do I have to take is somewhere? (Relatively handy, though no previous experience with this kind of mower)

thanks for any insights!
Tom

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Kermit

06-29-2001 01:44:36




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
Each day I cut hay I start with a sharp sickle and have sometimes changed half way through the day to another sharp sickle. I've used a V wheel grinder that I have mounted on a piece of plywood and powered by an electric motor. You can get the V grinder wheels at Tractor Supply Co. This year though I used an angle grinder. It was easier to use by myself and I could sharpen the sections near the sickle head better. I always like to have a sharp sickle. Things seem to go better that way.

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Dan

06-28-2001 21:19:02




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
I have never had much experience with a Ford Mower but have used several JD mowers both #5 and #8. Sickle I have now I have used for several years and still is sharp, it is underserated. Theory is they should keep themselves sharp. I have an old v grinder wheel but it is hard to use by yourself and I imagine would be hard to find wheels for them these days. I have used an angle grinder to sharpen sickles and that seems to work well, just keep it moving. \be careful not to get a real "fine" edge on it or it will roll over and be more dull than before. As the others said keeping the ledger plates in good condition and guards and hold downs adjusted so there is minimal clearence between sickle sections and ledger plates will make a lot of difference. Someone mentioned register of knives, other ting is lead. Variuls length of bars require different lead. In other words with no pressure on cutter bar the tip should be ahead of the mower end by some inches depending on specks for the mower. That way in the field when being used it will be perpendicular to the mower and not lagging behind. If you can find an operator's manual for it it should give you the adjustments,

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RayP(MI)

06-28-2001 17:59:39




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
My late Uncle Milo used to sharpen them on a common belt driven bench grinder with a 7 or 8 inch wheel. took a while, but he did a nice job!



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paul

06-28-2001 12:35:04




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
Generally we farmers wait until it is obvious something needs attention - might as well wait until your sickle is obviously dull.

Is your sickle top-serated, bottom-serated, or smooth?

The smooth you can sharpen for a long time, and these are the common type if you are set for hay. Bottom-serated can also be sharpened for a while. The top serated sickles don't really sharpen well - you end up turning them into smooth, but doesn't take too well.

THE best way is to remove the sickle, and sharpen on a slowmoving waterstone. Will make a very fine edge again, and keep the sickles cool, will not harm the temper.

However, only us old farm coots have one of those in the shop. I've heard of the 'v' sharpening wheels, do they fit on a drill or angle grinder or are hand powered? Sound good whatever they are.

I've used an angle grinder often enough, works well, but go light & keep it moving. If you heat the sickle, it will wear out quick & never keep an edge.

Pay attention to the ledger plates too as the other person said. Some are serated, some are smooth, but they should have a nice sharp edge, not rounded over.

--->Paul

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Butch

06-29-2001 04:40:06




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 Re: Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to paul, 06-28-2001 12:35:04  
"old farm coots"? Now your making me feel old! I have one of those human powered water stones that I use on my axes. The V shaped sickle stones used to be availible at Tractor Supply, but I haven't looked for one for years. They are best when mounted on a mandrel shaft belted to a motor so you have plenty of room around the stone. They are about 8" diameter and are shaped to grind the opposing edges of two sections. I have rigged a sprayer jet that connects to a garden hose above mine to keep the sections cooler. You need a helper to help hold the end of the bar up, or a length of twine hanging from a rafter works well.

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dave(ne)

06-28-2001 08:56:01




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
Tom, When I bought my 501 I went to FNH and bought a new sicklebar as a spare for about $70. That was 3 years ago. I have not sharpened it yet. It is as sharp now as it was when it was new. The only wear I see is from the knife clips rubbing on the sickle sections. I cut 10 acres of alfalfa 4 times a year and 25 acres of hay 2 times a year. Thats 90 acres per year. I did not expect that many acres out of a bar with no sharpening. You can also replace worn or broken sickle sections for about .75 cents per section

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Butch

06-28-2001 05:59:50




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 Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Tom A, 06-28-2001 04:53:27  
How often you sharpen it depends on what you are cutting. If it isn't cutting cleanly or if it sounds like it is working hard, it needs to be sharpened. Fine, thick grass (like a lawn) will always cut hard. Sharpening is best done on a "V" shaped stone made just for that pupose. In a pinch the sickle can be sharpened with a 4" hand grinder. Always grind the top of the sections. The gaurds have ledger plates for the sickle to act against. These should have a square edge. If not they should be replaced. Again, in a pinch you can dress them with a 4" grinder. You will notice that there are several clips on the bar that hold the sickle bar down on the ledger plates. They should be adjusted down so the sickle is held against the ledger plates, but slides freely. One last thing to check is the "register". Run the sickle to the end of the stroke. The sections should be centered in the gaurds. This is adjusted by moving the bar, or changing the length of the pittman rod depending on make and model.

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Butch

06-28-2001 06:04:07




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 Re: Re: How to sharpen a sicklebar mower? in reply to Butch, 06-28-2001 05:59:50  
Read my post and thought I better clarify checking the register. The sickle sections should be centered in the gaurd, NOT in between the gaurds.



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