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Baler: to buy or not to buy

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DD

07-31-1998 13:14:04




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I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

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micheal

08-03-1998 07:33:57




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 Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to DD, 07-31-1998 13:14:04  
Hi, can't figure out how to link one sight to the other, but I posted on the n-board my 2 cents worth. Now I can't help but knock the JD boys (sorry). I would never recommend a 'green' (read JD) baler. We have always used New Holland and they seem to make the best bales of any out there. You can take an old, neglected NH and give it a little tlc and your good to go. The red (NH) balers are the only ones made that can make
good, solid bales time after time with little maintainence. We had a neighbor bale for us last year and he had a 14T JD. Our bales made with the NH seem more solid and stack better. I only knew two people that used JD square balers, one sold his and bought a nh the other still struggles with his!
Actually, Balers are a personal preference, they all work the same, use similar components and are designed the same. I think JD buys their knotter stacks from NH and paints them green. Any should work as long as adjusted and maintained properly.
micheal : I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

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yayhoo

08-01-1998 20:56:06




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 Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to DD, 07-31-1998 13:14:04  

: I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When a

Balers with gas engines were created for the type of application you are considering;, that is, powered by a low horsepower tractor without a live power takeoff. A pto powered baler without live pto can be a nightmare to operate because if you have to stop the tractor the baler stops operating when you depress the clutch pedal, even if it happens to have a gob of hay going thru.
Balers are not especiallly tempermental provided the knotters are not worn out and kept reasonably clean and rust free.

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yayhoo

08-01-1998 20:47:36




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 Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to DD, 07-31-1998 13:14:04  

: I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

Balers with gas engines were created for the type of application you are considering;, that is, powered by a low horsepower tractor without a live power takeoff.
A PTO powered baler without live pto can be a nightmare to operate because if you have to stop the tractor the baler stops operating when you depress the clutch pedal, even if it happens to have a gob of hay going thru.
Balers are not especiallly tempermental provided the knotters are not worn out and kept reasonably clean and rust free.

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Dick Davis

08-05-1998 08:02:21




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 Re: Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to yayhoo, 08-01-1998 20:47:36  
: I had a very similiar situation, got tired of delays and poor results from farmers who wanted to make hay on shares. I found a NH 80 baler. A county engineer said his dad had stored the baler years ago but it had been running when it was put up. Price was $ 200 plus $ 200 to deliver to me over 125 miles. I bought it sight unseen. The paint was fair to good, the machine was complete except for the tool box, the ruber was just a little weather checked, the Wisconsin V-4 air cooled engine was free to turn but all the wiring had been consumed by mice who then built multiple nests in and around the cooling shrouds, and it came with all the books in excellent condition. The first winter was spent in clean up and replacing engine wiring. On re assembly I screwed up the governor and throttle spring placement. When it started it oversped big time! I quickly shut it down got a hand tach held against the drive wheel and started it again, it went past the rated rpm at idle! Shut down, went back to the book and found the error. It has run great ever since. The severe overspeed might have been the cause of a slight oil leak at the bottom of the case. I had never been around a wire baler and this old girl (1953 model) has the old fashioned twisters. By taking my time and carefully cleaning / lubricating I timed the twisters pretty close. While setting up the timing, I did manage to finish off the original needles which had had several bends and cracks. My local NH dealer found some new needles in the "Depot" costs me $112 delivered. So with lots of labor and about $ 700 I've got a beauty. These old balers had side needles and a bigger chamber than current PTO models. The first bales I made were so dense and heavy the customer complained that I was putting to much hay in each bale. I like having a seperate motor on the baler because of the increased capacity. But the rig is heavy! (about 4800 pounds. My land is hilly and the 80 will push my Super M (with 3 sets of rear weights) both down hill and side ways. I made the right descision for my situation. And I have had a ball making it work. : : I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

: Balers with gas engines were created for the type of application you are considering;, that is, powered by a low horsepower tractor without a live power takeoff.
: A PTO powered baler without live pto can be a nightmare to operate because if you have to stop the tractor the baler stops operating when you depress the clutch pedal, even if it happens to have a gob of hay going thru.
: Balers are not especiallly tempermental provided the knotters are not worn out and kept reasonably clean and rust free.

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Dick Davis

08-05-1998 07:34:59




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 Re: Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to yayhoo, 08-01-1998 20:47:36  
: : : I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

: Balers with gas engines were created for the type of application you are considering;, that is, powered by a low horsepower tractor without a live power takeoff.
: A PTO powered baler without live pto can be a nightmare to operate because if you have to stop the tractor the baler stops operating when you depress the clutch pedal, even if it happens to have a gob of hay going thru.
: Balers are not especiallly tempermental provided the knotters are not worn out and kept reasonably clean and rust free.

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Bob

08-01-1998 17:25:22




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 Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to DD, 07-31-1998 13:14:04  
: I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

Balers are no harder to operate and maintain than your 8N. As far as whether your 8N can handle the baler, I would worry more about the weight of the baler than the gas engine or a PTO. If your lots consist of steep hills the baler will push your 8N down the hill with little or no control. If your hay lots are on level ground, the 8N should do the trick. If you can, get a PTO driven baler. It's one less engine you have to keep running and maintain. I have a John Deere 14T that I bought used 10 years ago. Other than grease and a few shear pins I've had no problems with it. Good luck.

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Tom from Ontario

08-01-1998 20:04:39




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 Re: Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to Bob, 08-01-1998 17:25:22  

: : I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

: Balers are no harder to operate and maintain than your 8N. As far as whether your 8N can handle the baler, I would worry more about the weight of the baler than the gas engine or a PTO. If your lots consist of steep hills the baler will push your 8N down the hill with little or no control. If your hay lots are on level ground, the 8N should do the trick. If you can, get a PTO driven baler. It's one less engine you have to keep running and maintain. I have a John Deere 14T that I bought used 10 years ago. Other than grease and a few shear pins I've had no problems with it. Good luck.

: I agree completely with previous notes. A 14-t or 24-T JD baler will make good bales behind an 8N. A New Holland or Massey baler of the same vintage with a fair amount of wear on them will make poor bales, if they can tie any. I still use a 14-T behind a 5000 Ford and can produce upwards of 300 per hour for pickup with a New Holland automatic wagon. Just expect low gear with the 8N and you'll do just fine.

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Larry

08-27-1998 13:42:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Baler: to buy or not to buy in reply to Tom from Ontario, 08-01-1998 20:04:39  
The only comment I'd add is that the biggest drawback to the 8N is the lack of live power. Once you've baled hay with a live P-T-O it's really hard to not have it. But bottom line is that you can do it.

Larry
: : : : I have a 10 acre place which I have cut and baled every year. When all is said and done it costs me about $900. (I sell most of the hay so I come out ahead). I currently own a '52 8N and have a 501 sickle bar mower. I've been beating around the idea of looking for a baler and rake to do the job myself. The problem is I know nothing (but very willing to learn) about balers. I've always heard they are tempremental and hard to keep working properly. Is this something I should be considering or not??? If yes, any suggestions on baler and rake types would be appreciated. Should I only be considering balers with gas engines or can my 8N handle powering with the PTO? Any advice would be appreciated.

: : Balers are no harder to operate and maintain than your 8N. As far as whether your 8N can handle the baler, I would worry more about the weight of the baler than the gas engine or a PTO. If your lots consist of steep hills the baler will push your 8N down the hill with little or no control. If your hay lots are on level ground, the 8N should do the trick. If you can, get a PTO driven baler. It's one less engine you have to keep running and maintain. I have a John Deere 14T that I bought used 10 years ago. Other than grease and a few shear pins I've had no problems with it. Good luck.

: : I agree completely with previous notes. A 14-t or 24-T JD baler will make good bales behind an 8N. A New Holland or Massey baler of the same vintage with a fair amount of wear on them will make poor bales, if they can tie any. I still use a 14-T behind a 5000 Ford and can produce upwards of 300 per hour for pickup with a New Holland automatic wagon. Just expect low gear with the 8N and you'll do just fine.

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