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Flatten out plowed field

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Quickdraw

08-27-2001 14:04:42




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I finally have my 9n running great (thanks to the 9n 2n & 8n discussion board) and now have some implement questions.
I have plowed two rough (hilly) areas of field grass with the aim of leveling them up and planting grass. After I finished plowing there were large lumps of grass & roots exposed and some deep ruts from when grass & roots got pulled along in the clogged up plow and also where the plow cut deeply through the hills. I hooked up the disker and even with extra stones piled on it, it didn't flatten the lumps out much, just bounced over them with some rocks falling off it in the process (but it did get me stuck in the soft worked field). I then hooked up the back blade and tried to push the dirt piles into the ruts but I seem to lack the skill of keeping the blade at the proper height and either missed the pile altogether at speed or dug in too soon and made a bigger mess than when I started. I finally just started driving around forward with the blade dragging behind and this has started to flatten out the worst of it but will take alot more time and miles before it gets flat enough to even start thinking about planting the seed. The other thing is that the more I drive around dragging the blade the harder the piles get and the blade takes even less off the tops of the bumps. Unfortunately the worst part of the field is right beside the road and every pickup truck that goes by has a head craned in my direction with a questioning look or a smile on their face. So not to look like a total idiot in front of what are probably well seasoned farmers should I (a) hook up the disker again and drive around and around or (b) hire one of these guys to fix it? I would really appreciate any advise the experts here might have.
Thanks in advance.

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smirkey

08-28-2001 06:54:37




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
I have also had the problem but not to miss the point: of trying next time to do a better plow job. You know there are many adjustments to make for correct plowing. Such as tractor wheels moved in or out to match the plow draft center,,or using limiting turnbuckels on the 3-point hitch to prevent side sway of the plow in difficult conditions. speed, soil moisture when plowing, etc. it is such an art that there are word-wide plowing contests for competing farmers.

if the current plow job is just too bad, then plant a cover crop like oats, wheat, rye, ryegrass etc, and plow again next May.

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Quickdraw

08-28-2001 08:22:50




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 Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to smirkey, 08-28-2001 06:54:37  
Hey Smirkey, had the plow set level side to side with the right wheels in the rut left by the rear plow and had a slight slope to the front so that the front plow would dig into the sod when I dropped it from coming out of the corner. The field is only about 200' wide x 1,500' long so I didn't try to plow across the ends as turning sharply with the plow down would leave deep ruts and made my poor old 9n groan a bit. The problem was that since I do not have a bushog the grass was about 3' high with various types of weeds with deep roots that would not break up when it was turned over by the plows and the small hills, about 1' high, spaced anywhere from 2' to 6' apart left all the lumps & ruts I am trying to smooth out. The soil is fairly sandy and it hasn't rained for a week so it seemed like the perfect time to plow it. I will try the disker again this weekend as some people here have suggested with more weight on it, which is the cutting position, (disker units are angled inwards). Do you think it would be O.K. to just add the extra weight to the back 2 diskers? The front 2 diskers tend to sink into the worked part of the field, build up soil in front of them and slowly bring the tractor to a halt and then I have to dig it out, and that is with the 3 point hitch raised all the way. The disker is a John Deer, I guess it would be called a 4 gang with 2 units close together at the front and 2 units spaced out wider at the back, there are shallow boxes on the top of each unit where the weights are placed, the draw bar has a connector in the center with a heavy nylon rope attached to it. Any idea what this rope and connector are for? It looks like if you gave the rope a good yank it would disconnect the tractor from the disker, is this some type of saftey feature? If so, where should the rope be attached and how is it supposed to work?
Thanks

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paul

08-28-2001 08:58:52




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 Re: Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-28-2001 08:22:50  
Get a harrow (spike toothed drag). It will make your life much happier. Or build a leveler as the others suggest. Without getting the plow & disk set just right, it is difficult to get a level field. The harrow will knock off the tops, fill in the lows, and not dig in like your disk.

Do not make sharp turns with a plow, especially a 3-point plow. Also disks do not like making turns when in the ground - you can maybe get by with a smaller disk, but large 20 foot disks will break the frame if you do this.

Is the rope attached to a plate with some cogs on it? This is for adjusting the angle of the disk gangs. You would want to start out with a shallow angle to break up your lumps, then a more aggressive angle to fluff the ground & kill weeds.

It sounds like your disk needs some adjusting, or the blades are worn down too small. It should not be bunching up the soil as you describe.

--->Paul

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Dave C

08-28-2001 09:49:52




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to paul, 08-28-2001 08:58:52  
I think paul is right about the rope being used to adjust the gang angle. While you are parked on solid ground (not in your rough field) pull the rope and hold it. This should (if it is operating correctly) release a catch in the adjusting mechanism. While holding the rope, either go forward or back with the tractor. The drawbar/framework of the disk should telescope in and out and cause the gangs to change angle.Release the rope to set the catch at the desired angle. On the old disks without wheels, you would straighten the gangs for transport when you were done in the field.

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Quickdraw

08-28-2001 10:44:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Dave C, 08-28-2001 09:49:52  
That makes sense, I'll give it a shot this weekend.
Thanks.



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Quickdraw - Thanks Paul

08-28-2001 09:48:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to paul, 08-28-2001 08:58:52  
Looks like somebody up there was looking after me, I took a number corners with the 3 point plow down before deciding it maybe wasn't a good idea (something about those high pitched squealing noises). However the disker does not seem to mind taking turns too much, since the 4 units are only about 2.5' wide with maybe 7 disks on each one and they can move up & down independent of one another they just tend to lift a bit on the outside and dig in a little on the inside of the turn, besides, I can't raise it to turn it around so I really don't have any choice. I'm guessing the diameter of the disks are 15" and since this is the only one I've seen up close I really couldn't say if they are worn out or not. The rope is attached to a lever in a plate on the draw bar and looks like it is to disconnect the disker I can't think of a reason for it, unless it is used to connect up the unit easier, since it is a pest to get the pin through the drawbar, but the wife is getting better at lining up the holes while I hold the tractor in position. The adjustment for the disker units is made with the chains and angle iron attached to each unit. I'll have to check around and see if I can get hold of a spike toothed drag to see how it works.
Thanks

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paul

08-27-2001 18:33:47




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
Sounds like folks are describing different kinds of soil here. With hills, do you happen to have a lot of clay in your soils, and did it happen to be quite dry (or very wet too) when you plowed?

For the future, it helps to plow the ground, and then about 4-8 hours later run over it with a harrow (spike-tooth drag). If you wait any longer the ground will bake into bricks, sooner & it will mash down into hard ground again. You want to hit it when the outside of the lumps are getting hard & cracking, but the middles are still damp. It will fall apart pretty well at just that right time. You could use the disk if you don't have a harrow, but you are better off with a wider harrow & just knock the lumps around a bit, less tractor tracks in the field.

Timing with the rains can also do this now. You will not get a good seedbed if it's dry now anyhow, so just sit back & wait. When it rains, try to hit that 'sweet spot' when the field is drying out a bit, but the lumps aren't dried out rock-hard again. Roll over them with the disk, don't angle it much, and it should cut them up a bit. Caution, in damp/wet conditions a disk will QUICKLY roll the ground into a hard-packed concrete again, so only go over it once, give it time to dry.

Here in Minnesota we plow in fall, let winter freezing & moisture mellow out the soil & have an easy to prepare seedbed in spring. That would be ideal, but we can't always do what is ideal, huh? :)

You can run over the field with the backblade turned around backwards, drive forwards. But, it isn't ideal, and it does cause a few grins from the folks driving by.... ;) ;)

--->Paul

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Jerry D in NC

08-27-2001 18:12:49




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
Patience. Has it took a rain yet? Might do it good to get one. Now that you have pushed the piles into bigger piles with the blade you might want to go try to just fill in those holes with the blade. A trick we used to do was turn the blade around so the cutting edge was to the back and went forward dragging the round side. then hook back up to the disk and start. It is going to take several times with that disk to get it level but just take the section closest the road and ride back and forth until it is fairly level. But still a good rain will help it more than you can believe as long as you have sense enough to not work it too wet.

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Pitch

08-27-2001 17:57:45




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
Is this a three point disc? if it is make sure that your top link is adjusted correctly lengthen it right out so the front will dig in. I use one with my N to do the same thing you are doing and it works fine. As soon as you get it worked enough to stand the ride use third gear speed seems to be a big part of getting it to work right



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Ol Snuffy

08-27-2001 16:09:05




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
You should be able to bust up the clods with the disc. Make sure you have the disc in the cutting position and not just straight. If you need more weight on the disc try a couple, either 15 or 55 gallon barrels full of water, one on each gang. Anoyther thing that I like to do when getting ground ready to plant grass seed, is to drag it after I disc it and before I drill in the grass seed. I use a couple pieces of railroad iron 16 feet long cabled together about 4 feet apart one behind the other. You can make a field as smooth as a pool table doing it this way. Good luck and if I can help you out any more, feel free to E-mail me. Snuffy

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Burrhead

08-27-2001 18:28:16




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 Re: Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Ol Snuffy, 08-27-2001 16:09:05  
I use a 55 gal drum and it works good. Instead of straight beams for a drag I use a cow panel with semi tires tied on top of it. The cow panel will move and break the mounds better than I can get steel to do.



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Keewaydin

08-27-2001 14:59:30




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 Re: flatten out plowed field in reply to Quickdraw, 08-27-2001 14:04:42  
You didn't say how big the piece of ground is but if it's not too big you might be time and money ahead to hire someone to go over it with a rototiller. Something seems wrong with your disc harrow, it's the standard operating procedure around here for smoothing up plowed ground and cutting up the clods. If the rocks fall off how about using concrete building blocks and wiring or chaining them on?

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