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Belt drive sickle bar mower questions

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Mosey

03-11-2002 06:22:59




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In my recent post "sickle mower pittman arm vs belt drive" I learned a lot of basic stuff about sickle mowers. I have found a guy with a Ford 516 belt drive sickle mower. It appears to be in decent shape and he's asking $400. I'm planning to go back over and have him mount it up on a tractor so I can test it out. What do I need to look for and listen for? I want to make sure the wobblebox is not in need of a rebuild. Also, is there a way to lift the cutter bar from the tractor seat? For example, the Farmall A that we have on the farm where I grew up has a lever on the right hand side that will manually lift the cutter bar up about a foot to go over rocks, etc. The main reason I want a sickle mower is to mow a bank that’s too steep to drive on (about a 45 degree angle). This bank goes up about 12’. So, my plan is to go one along it from the bottom and then back along the top. The 7’ bar should be long enough to get it all that way. But, it’s not perfectly smooth so I’ll probably need to be able to lift the cutter bar up in a couple of places. Also, what will a sickle mower cut, just grass or will it cut something like a 1/4" dia tree seedling, thorns, etc?

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tlak

03-13-2002 05:25:07




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Use "501" for a search and you will get pleanty of reading. Does anybody have 501 books for sale?



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Mosey

03-11-2002 10:13:24




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Thanks. I'll keep all that stuff in mind when I go back. I just thought of one more question. If there's no pitman arm, then what's going to give before something breaks? Is there a shear bolt somewhere?



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paul

03-11-2002 18:49:31




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 Re: Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 10:13:24  
Within the last month someone asked about the wheel that goes at the end of the sickle. It was an option. In general it kinda is more awkward than help, but in your situation it might be just the thing. Someone posted a pic of a homemade one - real simple thing. Search back a bit, there were 2 threads on it.

Also, what tractor is this going to be mounted on? It has slightly different mountings for different Fords. It creates a 'steering arm' kind of control onto the 3-point arms, so that as you lift the mower up, the control arm pushes the far end of the blade up. You should be able to set it a little different to get more 'rise' out of it, altho 45 degrees probably isn't in the cards? Altho this could have a very different setup than the Ford mowers I am used to, not familiar with exactly your model number.

--->Paul

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Mosey

03-12-2002 13:38:28




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 Re: Re: Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to paul, 03-11-2002 18:49:31  
I have a New Holland TC29D compact diesel, which is about the same size as an 8N.



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Mosey

03-12-2002 10:52:21




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 Re: Re: Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to paul, 03-11-2002 18:49:31  
Thanks. I looked for that post, but couldn't find it. I get the idea anyway, just a wheel mounted on the end to allow the cutter bar to easily go up and down with the terrain. I've also thought of mounting a hydraulic cylinder to control the height, but a cylinder wouldn't have enough travel so I'd have to rig up some kind of arm to increase the travel.



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JIMVA

03-11-2002 12:15:03




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 Re: Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 10:13:24  
Nothing will break, if the the blade gets into a bind the belt will just spin inside the pully. Unlike the pitman which will break, and then u have to stop and screw around with the wrenchs and bolts replacing it. Just make sure if the blade does get into a bind u stop and as soon as u can, and fix the problem, just dont keep on going.



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Mosey

03-11-2002 10:10:24




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Thanks. I'll keep all that stuff in mind when I go back. I just thought of one more question. If there's no pitman arm, then what's going to give before something breaks? Is there a shear bolt somewhere?



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Kraig WY

03-11-2002 10:02:54




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Check guards, Teeth are pretty cheap. Good ideal about seeing it operate BEFORE buying. Check the grease inserts to see evedince of greasing. You should have any problem with 1/4 saplings. I use mine for hay and corn stocks.



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Kraig WY

03-11-2002 10:00:30




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Check guards, Teeth are pretty cheap. Good ideal about seeing it operate BEFORE buying. Check the grease inserts to see evedince of greasing. You should have any problem with 1/4 saplings. I use mine for hay and corn stocks.



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Kraig WY

03-11-2002 09:55:44




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Check guards, Teeth are pretty cheap. Good ideal about seeing it operate BEFORE buying. Check the grease inserts to see evedince of greasing. You should have any problem with 1/4 saplings. I use mine for hay and corn stocks.



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Tom A

03-11-2002 08:05:26




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Mosey:

I've got a Ford 515 sicklebar that I've had just a year, so I'll tell you what I've discovered from the owner's manual and the year. I use it with an 8N tractor.

Once the thing is mounted and adjusted, you can lift the bar from the seat, but only a limited amount--enough to go over rocks and short stumps. Mine will go up about 18 inches at the end of the bar.

You can adjust the level, but I wouldn't want to do it often. Mine is set up so the end of the bar just touches the soil when it is on level ground. To mow a 45 degree bank, I think you'd have to adjust the bar so it is at something close to a 45 degree angle, but maybe some guys with more experience will square me away on that.

I try to be careful with mine (bought it just to mow hay), but it does cut brambles and small saplings without even slowing down. I have used to to cut wild growth near some abandoned fenceline because I was tired of getting wild rose in the face while bush-hogging, and the siclebar did well...gave me a little bit of 'stand off' distance.

Check the wobblebox. I'm told they're not made anymore and it would be tough to find a replacement when it goes. On the other hand, it appears to be sturdy and as long as there's greaze in it and no obvious damage, I suspect it should be ok. Having him mount it is a great idea: seems like the most common problem folks have with these things is missing mounting hardware!

If you buy it, I'd recommend buying the reprinted owner's manual from New Holland. Costs about $5 and is worth it for the good info it has.
good luck,
Tom

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Tom A

03-11-2002 08:03:01




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 Re: belt drive sickle bar mower questions in reply to Mosey, 03-11-2002 06:22:59  
Mosey:

I've got a Ford 515 sicklebar that I've had just a year, so I'll tell you what I've discovered from the owner's manual and the year. I use it with an 8N tractor.

Once the thing is mounted and adjusted, you can lift the bar from the seat, but only a limited amount--enough to go over rocks and short stumps. Mine will go up about 18 inches at the end of the bar.

You can adjust the level, but I wouldn't want to do it often. Mine is set up so the end of the bar just touches the soil when it is on level ground. To mow a 45 degree bank, I think you'd have to adjust the bar so it is at something close to a 45 degree angle, but maybe some guys with more experience will square me away on that.

I try to be careful with mine (bought it just to mow hay), but it does cut brambles and small saplings without even slowing down. I have used to to cut wild growth near some abandoned fenceline because I was tired of getting wild rose in the face while bush-hogging, and the siclebar did well...gave me a little bit of 'stand off' distance.

Check the wobblebox. I'm told they're not made anymore and it would be tough to find a replacement when it goes. On the other hand, it appears to be sturdy and as long as there's greaze in it and no obvious damage, I suspect it should be ok. Having him mount it is a great idea: seems like the most common problem folks have with these things is missing mounting hardware!

If you buy it, I'd recommend buying the reprinted owner's manual from New Holland. Costs about $5 and is worth it for the good info it has.
good luck,
Tom

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