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Bill
07-23-2002 20:45:06
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Engine Driven Bailers. in reply to Chris B.(Ohio), 07-20-2002 10:47:52
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I have a 140W Case Bailer, Circa 1960. It has Cases own 4 cylendar air cooled engine mounted crosswise on it. It is rare. Most of them had a Wisconsin on them. My Owners manual shows a Wisconsin and makes no mention of anything else. I have a Cub and I am going to try to hook it to it. Ill be amazed if it dosent raise the front end off the ground or bend the drawbar. It is HEAVY, and LONG. I have taken out fence posts before on a turn near the fence. It makes a F30 shemmie back and forth sideways and forward and back when stopped. But, with my F-30 and my CC Case, I can pull it up to a big wad of hay, and ease into it nd woth good luck it will take it up in small pieces until the main wad gets sucked up into it. Usually, with experience ive got the wad pretty much sucked in before the main wad it taken up and it just takes it kickin and keeps on tickin. All old time bailers were hand tied and wire tied. There were NIO hand tied twine bailers. I have seen old IHC bailers with a front tire right at the hitch and then a hitch like a wagon hitch extend beyond that. PERHAPS with that, you could pull it with a C farmall H John Deere 60 Oliver 44 MH, burt with anything less llike a 8N or 9N, or Cub, or B Allis, H John Deere it would shake the shorts outa you. My main trouble is the engine. As I only hay once a year down here in OKLA, the engine sets 363 or so days out of the year. It is hard to start. I put ion hi test gas, check the Magneto,put on the hammerill belt on the engine pully and belt it to the tractor. It usually takes quite a while to suck the gas into the engine and to get it to start. Aftere that , generally, I can belt it back to the bailer, open the gas choke it and stand on the bailer flywheel and throw it until it takes off. Generally anywhere around 10 times or so. If push comes to shove, I start it with the tractor pulley. Get it started, ease the tractor up and remove the hammermill belt. SSlip on the bailer belt pretty mch over the bailer flywheel, and watching fingers and hands, ease the belt more and more until it starts trying to grab on the flywheel, just a bit more easing and the belt will grab onto the face of the flywheel and mount right on, and then, you ease down the gas, jack p the bailer and hook it to the tractor and your ready to go.Check youyr knives for grooves where the twine has gone through them for decades. If rthey are gooved, you can remov e them an have them brazed back true again. I usually rake my hay into biggr windrows with m bailer than I would with a PTO bailer with my tractors. I go a bit slower, but I got a wider area between windrows with more bales in the row. I like that, as I pick them up myself, being 55. The case is a hand clutch. I have a 8ft wide chain by 24" long. Its easy to stack 30 bales on this and drag them up to the barn and I dont get wore out doing it. I donty throw ontro a wagon I have to climb up on and stack time after time, and I dont have to climb on to the treactor to move it. I can walk behind it and engage the clutch until I get between 3 bales of hay. You cannot do that with yor H> You got to climb up and disengage the clutch, put it in low and move forward untiol you are at the next bunch of bales. Disengage the clutch, put gearshift into nuttural and get off. I lke my setup better. Good luck
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