Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Discussion Forum

IH square baler

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Bill Smith

08-04-2002 21:08:52




Report to Moderator

I have been trying to get an older IH twine tied square baler to work. I have never run one before but am mechanically inclined enough to figure out how it works. I have baled up about 150 bales with it and it is not quit tuned up good yet. It ties and cuts the string but bales randomly get messed up sometimes. Either the knot comes apart or the twine breaks fairly close to the knot. Not sure what I should do to fix this problem. I am using 9000 twine and making 50 to 60 lb bales. Not sure if I should loosen or tighten knotters or what to do. It would sure be nice to have it make bales that don't come apart all the time instead of 75% of the time. Any help would be appreciated. I believe this baler is like a 240 or something like that. Can't remember the number off the top of my head.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Mark Meyer

08-05-2002 10:24:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: IH square baler in reply to Bill Smith, 08-04-2002 21:08:52  
Bill,

I have an IH 430. I assume the knotters would be similar to yours. I had trouble with mine also but got it working great last year. This year I switched to poly twine. Had to make some adjustments but got it working fine. I have manuals for my baler. I can probably help you but need specific info on what it's doing (exactly where the knot breaks and what it looks like.)

I do know that if your hay is damp and the bales get too tight, they will break even if everything is properly adjusted.

E-mail if you need more help.

Good luck,

Mark

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill Smith

08-06-2002 20:46:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: IH square baler in reply to Mark Meyer, 08-05-2002 10:24:52  
My baler is a 430 just like yours. I just couldn't remember the number the other night. The hay I'm baling is crp ground that was released for drout. It is plenty dry. I baled a little dab of alfalfa with it tonight that was damp and tuff. I was happy with it the way it went through the baler but had to quit becuase bales were too damp. Maybe I'd better let them breath some air for a few days. lol. On the crp hay you go along good for awhile ( as slow as the tractor will go) and every once in awhile I will have a bale with one string on it. The next one maybe fine especially if nothing hangs up on the knotter. The knot has either come apart or the string is broke about 2 inches behind the knot on the top side of bale. On a good knot on that knotter thier should be two loops in the knot right? Most of the good knots have one descent loop and that second loop looks like it is pulled into the knot or just isn't quit right anyways. Ounce in awhile the knotter will mess up and rap the string around the top of the knotter itself. Not sure if that is a chain reaction from being messed up before the actuation of the knotter. It seems like in lighter windrows its alot better. Hit a heavy hay spot seems to be more troublesome. I go as slow as can and when I hit the heavy hay I do some cluching so I don't run hay through to fast. I try to run the heavy hay through about like the lighter hay but that is hard to do sometimes. Even in the lighter hay the knot don't really look like the other knot on the good knotter. Well I hope I have given you a few details. Thanks in advance.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mark Meyer

08-07-2002 16:11:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: IH square baler in reply to Bill Smith, 08-06-2002 20:46:54  
Bill,
What is your PTO speed? Manual list 75 strokes per minute but you may have better luck knotting with lower speed (around 60) I have a feeling this is "sidestepping" other problems but may help.

When the knot breaks, is it still hooked to the billhook (chrome-plated hook that holds knot)?

Knot loop length should be 1/2" minimum. If loops are too short or knot is incomplete, billhook tension is too little. If loops are very long and knot looks extremely tight, the billhook tension may be too much and the billhook hangs onto the knot until the twine breaks.

The keeper blade (long spring) is the other major adjustment. If spring pressure is too low, twine will slip out before knot is made. If pressure is too high, the twine can also be pulled out but short pieces of twine will be found below or between the disks.

Try to compare the spring tension between the good knotter and the bad one.

If none of this works, I can e-mail you troubleshooting pictures, but I need your e-mail address. Good luck

Mark

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill Smith

08-06-2002 20:43:42




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: IH square baler in reply to Mark Meyer, 08-05-2002 10:24:52  
My baler is a 430 just like yours. I just couldn't remember the number the other night. The hay I'm baling is crp ground that was released for drout. It is plenty dry. I baled a little dab of alfalfa with it tonight that was damp and tuff. I was happy with it the way it went through the baler but had to quit becuase bales were too damp. Maybe I'd better let them breath some air for a few days. lol. On the crp hay you go along good for awhile ( as slow as the tractor will go) and every once in awhile I will have a bale with one string on it. The next one maybe fine especially if nothing hangs up on the knotter. The knot has either come apart or the string is broke about 2 inches behind the knot on the top side of bale. On a good knot on that knotter thier should be two loops in the knot right? Most of the good knots have one descent loop and that second loop looks like it is pulled into the knot or just isn't quit right anyways. Ounce in awhile the knotter will mess up and rap the string around the top of the knotter itself. Not sure if that is a chain reaction from being messed up before the actuation of the knotter. It seems like in lighter windrows its alot better. Hit a heavy hay spot seems to be more troublesome. I go as slow as can and when I hit the heavy hay I do some cluching so I don't run hay through to fast. I try to run the heavy hay through about like the lighter hay but that is hard to do sometimes. Even in the lighter hay the knot don't really look like the other knot on the good knotter. Well I hope I have given you a few details. Thanks in advance.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
punchie

08-05-2002 05:38:57




Report to Moderator
 Re: IH square baler in reply to Bill Smith, 08-04-2002 21:08:52  
HI Bill

I don't have an IH baler .

I would start with Twine tenions , from the twine box. Should hold the twine just a little, should not have too pull hard to get it out, but not too loose.

Twist in twine , clear twine from baler, hold arm to arm and bring your arm together, should be no twist in it.

Twine knife is sharp, are the knotts cut clean.

One side or both ?????

Bale size wieght?? 3' bale should be around 35-45 lbs.. If too must tenion on the twine hard for knotter to work right.

Do one thing at a time , one change at a time. Take notes for next time , hard to remember in a few years; what, when, where, and how.

Good luck !!

Punchie

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill Smith

08-06-2002 21:04:43




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: IH square baler in reply to punchie , 08-05-2002 05:38:57  
Trying to make about 3 ft. bales. Nice medium weight ones that are not to heavy, not to light. Trouble seems to be on one side. Cuts twine every time. String has gotten messed clear up a few times and had to re-thread. Twine feed seems to be alright. Doesn't seem to be any hang ups. Posted some other detailes under Mark's re-post. Or I thought I did. Not sure what is going on with this site or my computer. The stuff I put on doesn't show up on the site for what seems like hours.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Punchie

08-11-2002 06:30:04




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: IH square baler in reply to Bill Smith, 08-06-2002 21:04:43  
Mark

I've got all my books to look at, if you are still have trouble e-mail me back at : moldovan@brads.net

I'll be around all day today, YT is just too slow and too hard to use sometimes.

Punchie



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy