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Hay baler questions

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Richard H.

04-22-1999 10:51:55




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Just found this page and thought I'd ask a question on hay balers. I am in the need for a baler and have found 3 that I'm looking at, they are IH 47, JD 14T, and NH 273. The 47 needs all new ujoints on the pto shaft, new pulley on feed auger, flywheel is solid but inner hub that connects to the pto shaft is loose, and all pickup fingers have been replaced. The plunger bearing has a little play in it. Maybe .005-.010 (800.00). The NH 273 has been completely restored but will not tie on one side and numerous people have tried, even replaced needles and knoters (1400.00). The JD 14T has been reconditioned (haven't looked at it yet (850.00)). Any advice on what to look at and things to consider in purchasing any of these balers would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

On another note I have recently picked up a 39 Farmall F-12 and need info as to places to locate needed parts/manuals. Most are there, including the tin.

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Ryan K

09-13-2004 17:21:21




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
Go with the NH. If one side won't tie it might be because of one side overfeeding. If the bales rainbow that is your problem. Despite the simple complexities of knotters they will always tie if your essential components are set correctly. But as far as the rest of the machine and its longevity and durability I choose New Holland.



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ernest

04-30-1999 11:49:11




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
get the n holland, believe me it can be fixed, it's probably somthing obvious, like twine fingers, or bent finger weld assembly. or ceramic guide worn ahead of needles. i already has new knotter and needle!



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B.C.

04-26-1999 07:31:43




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
Probably go with the JD 14T. I've had one, then later a NH 66 and 67. All things equal, NH seems a little nicer, but from what you've got to pick from, the 14T would probably be less grief.

A 14T is not a high rate machine, but will get the job done if its in good repair. Keep the knife sharp and properly adjusted. Don't get overly ambitious with bale chamber tension. And at the end of the season, a can of Rustoleum sprayed on the bale chamber surfaces will minimize the rust build up before its next use.

A big advantage is JD's parts support and parts prices. NH and IH seem to have a rape contest going on along those lines.

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Dick Davis

04-23-1999 03:37:34




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
Stay away from any baler that won't tie. And be thankful the present owner was honest enough to tell you the problem up front. It is amazing the number of stories one hears about a baler that develops the problem and it can not be fixed. I suppose there are a number of skilled mechanics that can make anything work, but they never seem to get to baler repair.



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Wayne

04-22-1999 15:55:49




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
Go with the JD Very good older baler.



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mike

04-22-1999 14:50:03




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 Re: hay baler questions in reply to Richard H., 04-22-1999 10:51:55  
Go with either the NH or JD. The IHC is not a option. NH square balers are the standard of the industry. It can be repaired. The NH would support a better resale value when you unload it. Always keep it inside. This slowes down the chamber rusting.



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Paul Fox

04-22-1999 15:40:44




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 Re: Re: hay baler questions in reply to mike, 04-22-1999 14:50:03  
Scott Satterlund of Binder Books is the best source for manuals for your F12. I believe he advertises on this site.

I listed several parts sources on my web page detailing the rebuilding of my F14, link below.



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