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Corn Planter Basics

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Mike

12-02-2002 16:13:56




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I am going to an auction to look at a John Deere 7000 4 row planter. The ad says it is a No-Till. How do you tell the difference between a no till and a normal planter? I was at an auction this weekend and a 7000 that was there looked the same as the picture of the no till. Also, I hear people talking about getting the correct size seed to match the plates. If you have corn plates in the planter will any corn seed work, or are there specific corn plates? Any tips on corn planters are welcome since I am new to this.

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Rick

12-03-2002 04:27:08




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 Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 16:13:56  
Mike, Just my two cents okay. After running Deere planters for years. I went to case IH 900 series. In my experience was best move I ever did. Still runnig same unit today and still wouldn't switch back. The opener discs on these are staggered unlike Deere and you don't need extra coulters for no-till. I have planted in worked ground,standing cornstalks,planted direct into old hay ground and direct into crp land. The most important item with any planter is you have to get the see trench close back over the seed. You must have good seed to soil contact!!!!! To change seed types (corn,beans.sorgum,native seed etc)all you do is switch drum or drums depend on size planter. Seed size once you learn to set it you can use any size. I usually get the smallest size seed you can get cause it cuts your seed cost instead of buying the more popular med round or large round. Thats what the Deere planters like period. Way less parts also. Here is a funny footnote Deere suppose be best but now offering IH opener type wheels as option on new Deere planters. KInze brand popular cause of 15" row fad right now. Basically just Deere painted blue and heavier. Your cost up front on IH will be half or less than Deere also. Let me know if I can help more. You have got to set them right no matter which color you have!!!!! The best way to get really accurate is rubber band around drive tire method. Let me know if I can be more help. P.S. Deeres you need to use a Talc powder also in each box to keep them planting right. IH don't need this and is no clean out problems on them either compared to deeres.

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Mike

12-03-2002 11:10:33




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 Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Rick, 12-03-2002 04:27:08  
Thanks for all the information.
The IH 900 looks like a great planter, but since I only farm part time its a lot more money than I can justify. I saw an IH 56 at an auction the other week for about $600, and there is another sitting on a dealer lot for $750. Is this a desent planter? The dealer says it has "double disk openers". It is in fairly good shape and looks like it didnt sit out prior to being on the lot.

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Mike

12-03-2002 11:05:19




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 Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Rick, 12-03-2002 04:27:08  
Thanks for all the information.
The IH 900 looks like a great planter, but since I only farm part time its a lot more money than I can justify. I saw an IH 56 at an auction the other week for about $600, and there is another sitting on a dealer lot for $750. Is this a desent planter? The dealer says it has "double disk openers". It is in fairly good shape and looks like it didnt sit out prior to being on the lot.

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Mike

12-03-2002 17:13:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-03-2002 11:05:19  
What size planter are you looking for 4row wide,6row wide narrow etc. The model you are talkng about I know nothing about. But if it is the one thinking of does it have seed boxes on each row unit? Those prices sound awful high for planter that old. The 800 series is basically same as 900 just few minor details only difference and they will interchange. I have seen those bring less than thousand dollars also. Let me know exact what size looking for probably find you one. I have large IH dealers in my area had several old units on lot pretty cheap. Let me know Rick

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paul

12-03-2002 04:58:05




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 Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Rick, 12-03-2002 04:27:08  
I think IH has pretty good stuff in the 900 & 800 series, not so many around but you pointed out the good parts.

Don't get an IH 500 or 400, which would be more in line with a 7000JD, as those 400 & 500 had lots of problems with uneven seed placement & didn't handle hills very well. I would imagine Case addressed those issues in the newer models.

--->Paul



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Mike

12-02-2002 19:29:39




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 Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 16:13:56  
So the no till will have opening culters in addition to the opening disks? Also, what type of applications can a no till be used in? I assume it couldnt really be used in a pasture that has well established grass.



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JMS/MN

12-02-2002 20:01:00




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 Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 19:29:39  
A no-til may or may not have the extra openers in front of the seed openers, but usually does. The extra heavy down pressure springs on the row units are essential. You could plant in established sod, but would likely want to kill it first with Roundup so it doesn't compete with the planted corn. Not many 7000s around with plates, most were plateless, and you can buy corn that is sized especially for plateless planters, although they also handle well the varieties that are sized in normal flat and round sizes. Plateless units are easy to maintain- annual checks for broken springs, replace the brush, ($2), backup plate lasts many years, replaces for about $22. Openers are about $25 per blade, depth wheel and closing wheel bearings are replaceable. For soybeans, JD and Kinze make seed plates to replace the cups, cost about $110 per row, (used go for half), and give an extremely accurate planting rate.

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paul

12-02-2002 19:58:45




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 Re: Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 19:29:39  
Some do, they spray the sod to kill it, & plant. This will take _all_ the good notill options with good downsprings, like-new blades & cutting parts, and would not likely work in my particular soils, but it can happen in some areas. I hear lots of soybeans are planted into CPR ground that way, as RR beans are easy to kill off the sod over the summer. You would have to plan for notill weed control, and learn a lot more than I have to offer before trying this. :)

Some no-till options are more to brush off last year's trash, and these systems would not work well in a sod situation. You'd really need to study up on what you need for your soil types, & what exactly this planter has. Yetter, Shoup, Dawn, and many other after-market companies make no-till options for these planters, as well as OEM from JD. All of them would be advertised as a 'notill planter'.

Shoup is a good place to order parts for these planters, you can check their catalog for parts & prices. They have a web site, www.shoup.com I think?

--->Paul

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Brad--IN

12-02-2002 18:14:31




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 Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 16:13:56  
Not sure, but I think the no-till or "conservation" model of the 4 & 6 rows used a 7" X 7" toolbar where std. version used 5" X 7" toolbar. Either bar size can be used as a no-till with addition of coulters on the row, heavier down pressure springs, etc.
New seed opener disks measure 15". JD suggests replacing at 14", this is when all the bevel is gone. See if gauge wheels and press wheels wobble side to side to check for bad bearings. Rule of thumb I use on row units is $300 per row plus labor to change most all wearable parts(bearings, blades, bushings, springs, chains). If planter has set out for any time at all go ahead and figure on relplacing all chains.

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paul

12-02-2002 17:52:04




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 Re: Corn Planter Basics in reply to Mike, 12-02-2002 16:13:56  
I've got a 7000 4 row.

A notill version probably has most or some of the following: down-pressure springs; opening coulter; trash cleaners; trash closing wheels. Otherwise they are the same as a 7000 planter, these are all add-on attachments. Now, different folks like way different setups & it depends on the soil type you are working with, but basically it will have springs to keep in harder soils, and something to clear away the old debris in front of the regular seed disks, and may have closing or press wheels that also work better in sticky or trashy soils.

Most 7000 corn planters have finger pickups, which might need attention if they haven't been calibrated in a while (repaired & adjusted). These accept a pretty wide seed size. It is possible to have seed plates on a 7000, but that is rare 'here'. If it has plates, you need to match seed size to plate size, small, medium, large; round or flat. You would want a bunch of different plate options.

You would want seed cups for soybeans, just so you know. Plates, finger meters, or cups are all little attachments that bolt on to the bottom of the seed hoppers. Not cheap, but small items.

A good way to check wear is to look how big the seed opener disks are, and see if the closing wheels are solid. (Black wheels in the back, pick them up a bit on the swivel, & see if they rock in & out.) Both of those items cost some to replace, and need attention from time to time. Maybe just assume the finger units need to be worked over if it has those...

I'll tell you more (here or email) if you want, but babbled enough for one message. :)

--->Paul

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