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Blade removal

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Blake Simpson

03-20-2003 01:30:11




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I have a woods XT172 rotary mower, I need to get the blades off and sharpen them, I was wondering what is the best way to get the nuts to break loose, I was going to use a 3\4 drive pull handle and a pipe. Just wondering what everyone else does and what would be the easiest. I don't have a lot of tools to work with such as an air compressor and an impact wrench




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Ed

03-22-2003 06:01:49




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 Re: blade removal in reply to Blake Simpson, 03-20-2003 01:30:11  
The methods I have found to work best are- 1. A couple of SHARP BLOWS on the nut, with a good sized hammer, if you can land them in such a way that the nut or bolt threads are not damaged.

2. QUICK HEAT with an acetylene torch, on the nut, and put the wrench to it before the heat spreads to the bolt.

You might have to alternate (repeat) the above a couple of times.

Ed



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Robert in W. Mi

03-21-2003 13:54:18




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 Re: blade removal in reply to Blake Simpson, 03-20-2003 01:30:11  
My Woods rotary cutters don't have the blades held on with a big through bolt, they DO have a large pin? that's held in from the top with a keeper and smaller bolt. They are very easy to get off, and you don't need a big impact, or breaker bar with a cheater, like the competion. The Woods "finish" mowers i had, had large spindle nuts that were "left hand thread". I'm not sure which type of mower you are talking about, but from the model you gave i think it's a rotary cutter????? ? Robert

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Dave, Sherburne, NY

03-20-2003 20:43:19




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 Re: blade removal in reply to Blake Simpson, 03-20-2003 01:30:11  
My woods L-59 Has left hand threads and came with a special wrench to hold the spindle from turning . I think there is two holes in the top of the pulley. I've never used it because I have an electric impact wrench



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Blake

03-21-2003 18:27:43




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 Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Dave, Sherburne, NY, 03-20-2003 20:43:19  
the mower i am refering to is a rotary cutter. it has two seperate blades mounted on one arm that mounts to the gear box, the mower deck has an access plate that lifts off to give me access the bolts for the blades, the threads are left hand threads, the nuts are 1 5\8". I tried a 3\4 drive pull handle with a one foot cheater bar and I still could not get them to move. I am running out of ideas



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Robert in W. Mi

03-21-2003 20:10:15




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 Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Blake, 03-21-2003 18:27:43  
I've not seen a Woods like you describe, is it an old model?? Anyway, looks like you will need a bigger cheater, or it's time to heat the nuts. Have you been soaking it with Blaster or liquid whench??? Robert



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Blake Simpson

03-22-2003 01:13:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 03-21-2003 20:10:15  
third party image

It came with the tractor I bought recently, I was told that it was about a year old, it does look fairly new other than some surface rust,I will try to attach a picture. If I was to use heat on the nuts of the blades can I use one of those small torches that just has a small bottle of gas that attaches to the torch head that can be bought at local hardware store. Also while i am asking you questions, the mower of mine does not have a slip clutch as the one in the picture shows,but the blades do move on the arm, is the movement of the blades the only safety that i need if i was to hit a rock or some thing very hard, or do I need to check into getting a clutch. thanks

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Robert in W. Mi

03-22-2003 08:49:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Blake Simpson, 03-22-2003 01:13:07  
You will need a lot more heat than a propane torch can generate. But, KEEP soaking those nuts!!! AND, put a 5 foot piece of pipe over the handle of your wrench for leverage. MAKE SURE you have GOOD tools, and BE CAREFULL, you may break the wrench and FALL, INJUREING YOUR SELF!!!!! ! The mower must have a "shear bolt" in the drive line. If you hit something like a rock, the bolt shears, and you have to stop, shut everything off, and replace the bolt. The bolts have to be soft bolts and of the proper size. You should be able to see this "cross bolt" in the drive line at the gear box. Have you got the manual for this mower?? It will show you where the bolt is. I prefer a drive line clutch, instead of a bolt, but if all you will ever do is mow a clean field, the bolt will work fine. "If" you are in a field with stones ect., or cutting brush, i'd prefer the clutch. Keep in mind, the slip clutch will have to be ajusted for YOUR tractor if you get one. Robert

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Frank Fox

03-22-2003 20:17:46




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 03-22-2003 08:49:48  
Make sure you install an over running clutch on the PTO of your tractor, in addition to any shear-bolts or slip-clutch. To protect the tractor transmission and to prevent the mower from over running the tractor. Just my 2 cent's
Frank Fox Sacramento Ca.



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Robert in W. Mi

03-23-2003 13:54:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Frank Fox, 03-22-2003 20:17:46  
I'm not sure what tractor this cutter is going on, but you only need the over run clutch on tractors that "don't" have live power, AND "don't" have an "internal" over run clutch already built into the tractor. Robert



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Frank Fox

03-22-2003 20:15:44




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: blade removal in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 03-22-2003 08:49:48  
Make sure you install an over running clutch on the PTO of your tractor, in addition to any shear-bolts or slip-clutch. To protect the tractor transmission and to prevent the mower from over running the tractor. Just my 2 cent's
Frank Fox Sacramento Ca.



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