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Disk rebuild

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Walt

04-04-2003 10:31:54




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I am redoing my disk, looks like over time the cutter disks in front have worn around the square center, became sloppy and cut into the square shaft, some spun freely on the shaft. I took everything off of the shaft, welded and ground down the shaft, replaced the worn disks and am ready to put them back together. Thought it might be a good idea to weld a piece of square tubing on each disk to give it more surface area on the shaft, so the disks will not cut into it again, tried one so far and it seems to take ALL of the play out. Is this too stiff, should there be some play? Any ideas/opinions appreciated.

Walt

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rednekelmo

04-05-2003 22:06:16




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
I'm with everyone else,the squares are just there to help you untill everything is tightend up. The pressure that is put on the blades from the spacers is what stopes them from turning. lots and lots of pressure and friction just like an old steel bridge.In an emergency I have used an old blade with a wallowed out center with no problems.I've used 3/4" drive and a 4' cheater bar on everything from my grandfathers old IH37 to my uncles late modle 33' rock flex or in an emergency the 4' pipe wrench and a lot of jumping.The freezer trick sounds neat will have to try it.one trick is to tap the blades every morning or befor every use tight blades will have a nice ring to them loose blades will be flat

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JK-NY

04-05-2003 12:35:22




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  

I agree with the others about welding on disks . I have tried welding cracked disks when they crack around the gang bolt hole and they always crack again uasually along the weld. Get the nut on the gang bolt tight , keep it tight and it should be ok. If it wont tighten up add spacers behind the nut. Ive put a worn out disc along a new one on the end of the gang bolt by the nut as a spacer.

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Hal

04-05-2003 05:01:47




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
Part of the problem is the hole in disk blades is often punched to accomodate 2 different sizes, say 1" and 1 1/8", I guess to reduce inventory. Were yours like that? If that is the case, and your disk bolt is the smaller of the two sizes and you can't find a blade with just one square punch, then the idea of slipping a piece of tubing over to step up to the larger size is good.

The main thing is take two wrenches with you out to the field when you first start using it and tighten it every so often in the beginning.

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tim[in]

04-04-2003 23:50:46




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
i think he means welding the square tubing on the shaft that the discs and bearings go on.he is just putting the hollow square tube on the shaft. which i think would be a great idea . he should send it to farm show magazine.



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paul

04-05-2003 07:22:11




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 Re: Re: Disk rebuild in reply to tim[in], 04-04-2003 23:50:46  
A disk holds together with compression from the nut on the end. Any other method will lead to wear. a disk is in too much dirt, & gets too much shock loading, to hold up to any kind of 'fitting' taking the wear. It needs to be screwed tight.

Both the blades & the shaft are heat treated, & any welding on either will (in the long run - I've seen short-term fixes) ruin them. The welded shaft will now stretch more than it should, and the blades will either wear faster or shatter on a rock depending on how the metal recristalized.

--->Paul

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tim[in]

04-05-2003 14:10:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Disk rebuild in reply to paul, 04-05-2003 07:22:11  
i wonder if just slipping the sleave on without welding will work. i have helped rebuild a few discs. lol but i was thinking the one he is talking about is like my old dunham which was made about the time of horse to tractor transition. those i wonder if were made of as heave or hardened steel like the newer 20+ footers i have used. i understand about the pressure holding them on. my present disc is a 10 ' kewanee. but for a disc where shafts are no longer available and used on gardens or a few acres , i think slipping a sleeve on with out welding could work as long as it leaves the threaded end free so the spacer ,washer and nut and nut holder could be put on and tightened. this idea holds merit for some if it can still be tightened.

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thurlow

04-04-2003 16:13:07




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
Walt; unless you're a truly expert welder (able to match rod with carbon content of blade), I think the blades you've welded on will quickly break.



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Hugh MacKay

04-04-2003 13:46:43




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
It sounds to me as though your center hole in disc blades is too large for shaft. You really shouldn't be welding on those disc blades. Might be better to use a bit longer piece of square tubing, let the spacers hold it in place, maybe even a full length piece if spacers are sloppy as well. I like some of the suggestion you allready have on tightening the arbor bolt, especially one on freezer. When you start to disc tak tools with you for further tightening of arbor bolts. 6 foot handles on 3/4 drive is not too much. Tighten every 2-3 hours first 2 days. An individual disc should never move. Once you get those arbor bolts tight they will stay for years. If they are allowed to run loose for awhile you will never get them tight. They get full of soil inside spacers.

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Hugh MacKay

04-04-2003 13:40:43




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
It sounds to me as though your center hole in disc blades is too large for shaft. You really shouldn't be welding on those disc blades. Might be better to use a bit longer piece of square tubing, let the spacers hold it in place, maybe even a full length piece if spacers are sloppy as well. I like some of the suggestion you allready have on tightening the arbor bolt, especially one on freezer. When you start to disc tak tools with you for further tightening of arbor bolts. 6 foot handles on 3/4 drive is not too much. Tighten every 2-3 hours first 2 days. An individual disc should never move. Once you get those arbor bolts tight they will stay for years. If they are allowed to run loose for awhile you will never get them tight. They get full of soil inside spacers.

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JMS/MN

04-04-2003 11:31:19




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
There should be no disks rotating on the shaft- that means the nut is loose, and causes the wear you noticed on the shaft. The entire unit should turn as one- on the bearings. Use a cheater pipe on the wrench to get the nut tight, and maybe add a second nut up against the first. When you see a disk rotating on the shaft- tighten it now...don't wait til you get home.



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TP from Central PA

04-04-2003 11:13:29




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 Re: Disk rebuild in reply to Walt, 04-04-2003 10:31:54  
Sounds like the big nuts on the gangs were not tight enough. I put an impact on them to tighten them up when I rebuilt our IH 37. Or I have heard of others putting the cast spacers in the freezer over night and then assembling them the next day..... ....When the spacers reach air temp. they make the hand tightened nut TIGHT!!!!!



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