Used Howard Rotovator

Also, this unit is about 4 years old,if it is in good condition what would it be worth? I am in NJ
Thanks for your help.

I'd ask to open the chain case and see for my self what the oil in there looks like, and to see if it has been run with out oil. (opposite end has a grease fitting) If that's not possible, you can see how much is left of the chain ajustment. There's a bolt you screw in to take up the slack, it shouldn't be screwed all the way in! If it's been run with out oil, the chain would be stretched out, and used up all the ajustment.

Open the back cover on the gear box and see how it looks in there. It should have fairly clean oil in it, and nothing should look like it was ever over heated.

Look for missing bolts, like the ones holding the gear box in place. It shouldn't have any leaks from the gear box, or chain case either.

Check the U-joints for slop, they should have been kept greased, or will need to be replaced. Also look at the drive line slip clutch. Are the nuts on the springs screwed all the way in?? If so, it will mean the clutch plates are worn out.

If it's been kept greased, and the oils kept up i doupt other than rotor blades that there will be much wear!! Everything inside runs in oil, or is greased! These are very well designed tillers! I don't have an HR40, but i'm guessing the rotor blades are close to 7 bucks each? Don't use cheap blades, or the bolts to bolt them on. Don't reuse bolts that come off! Buy grade 8 FINE THREAD bolts from a QUALITY bolt dealer with "same grade" LOCK nuts, and use red loc-tite too!! I don't use any washers, they compress and let the bolts come loose. Been there done that!!

AS for price, i'm going to say half of new price LESS any parts "includeing" rotor blades and bolts would be a good place to start.

Robert

I was hoping you would respond, I have been reading some of your other responses on Howard Rotovators. I am inclined to agree with your reasoning in regards to the Rotovators performance. Someone like youself who has plowed and rotovated may offer a better perspective on the subject of rotovating than persons who only plowed but never rotovated. I also find your photos very interesting and helpful.

I thank you for your advice to my original posting, however, the unit I am looking at is like your HR30 unit style, not the older forrestal model. This unit unlike yours is gear driven, there is not a drive chain on it. Even though you do not have the gears on yours, what is your opinion on what I should check in this case.

Also, if I had to run it on one of my smaller tractors couldn't I remove some of the tine sets to bring it down to amanagable unit for a tractor with lower horse power? I like to have a back up plan if one of tractors break down during tilling operations.

I plan to subsoil in the fall and just rotovate the same field in the spring. I will be dealing with roots and spruce stumps 3 to 5 inches in diameter. (Christmas trees and Cut and dug). I am a one man operation, and need to elimminate the plowing Discing and harrowing, (Some times twice depending on weather).

This used unit is a bit rusted, but it seems sound, the leveling wheels are bent slightly and one leveling jack is missing its top. I have to give it a second look, I did not have the time or the knowledge to check out the side gears and or the Selectatilth gear box. Next trip, now with your help should give a better picture of the condition. If, I ask them to run it for me what should it do, or not do? What should I watch for?

Of course any other rotovator owners with first hand knowledge on what to look for, I would appriciate your advice too.

So Robert if you could share a little more advice it is welcome.

Thanks

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Allan, I've never owned a Howard with gears, and the reason why is, i think the chain will take the shock loads better. Another reason is, those chains will always be available from other sources, but the gears won't. There are some really "old" Howards out there now that are gear drive, and the gears are no longer available, at least that's what my Howard dealer told me.

I still think the most important thing of all is that it "hasn't" ever been run with out gear oil in it!!

It should run smooth and quiet when it's out of the ground, so asking to hear it run out of the ground would be good. Open the gear box, and look the gears over. They may show some polish, but should be in good shape. "Nothing" in there should look like it was ever hot!!

You can take rotor blades off to use a tractor with less power, but the rotavators performance will go down!! How much less are you talking about??? Running the tine speed at the slowest speed will take a lot less hp than a faster tine speed, also slowing the ground speed down takes less hp too.

I like to size my rotavators one size bigger than the tractor it will be used on. For instance, my HA is rated for up to 65hp, i run it on my 45hp tractor 99% of the time.

I hope this helps, Robert

According to the Howard Technical Specifications any Rotovator starting with the HR35 and up, only has the gear drive, no chain drive available. I can't imagine Howard not stocking Gears for their big units. But that is a good question to ask my dealer, maybe even stock up on replacement gears. You see I have a good piece of ground, no rocks only roots and some small stumps. The stumps will be rotted and/ or taken out by the subsoiler in the fall. I spray the sod with Round Up once the tree patch is cleared to keep from using my mowers in the area where the tree spades have been and the tracked skid steers. The rotovators should go through the field nice and deep, once it is subsoiled very easliy.

I will check the gear oil, if you remove the cover on the drive area do you need to replace the gasket, If so I may have to purchase one and bring it with me,or just siphon it out. The tip on the running out of the ground is good, can use that.

The removing of the blades was only a consideration if my 120 HP tractor decides to surprise me at tilling time. (I just had a rash of unanticipated, odd repairs this spring). I have a 70HP that would fill in for it. The Howard Tech. Spec. states Min HP on HR40 100" is 84 HP. If I remove 12 blades That gives me 80" Min 68 HP. With the slower ground speed and type of soil I have it may make it without removing any blades. What did you mean by performance going down, if the blades are removed? Just less width tilled or Rotovator would be unbalanced?

This used Rotovator is bigger than I would buy, if I was buying new. The Size I would consider if buying new is HR30 to HR35 at 80" wide. But considering the New Smaller Ones are 4 to 5 thousand dollars more than the USED HR40 right off the bat, I'm taking an interest in it. I didn't even price the HR40 "New" yet! Bet it is close to 9 to 10 thousand dollars. If, the USED HR40 checks out in good condition, although something heavier than needed, I might be able to live with it.

I think I can straighten the leveling wheels out and give it a new coat of paint in house.

It says in the Tech. Spec that the "C" shaped speed blade uses less HP also, and incorprates sod and debris into the soil the best. I need to visit the dealer and see if he has the "C" shaped blades, to look at them.

Fortunately this used one is not that old, it is the current style they are still selling new.

So far, it sounds like Rotovating is tailored made to my operation. I am getting to old to change all those implements the old way.

Once again, thanks for the info Robert.

Allan

Most guys just remove a couple blades off each flange to use less hp. If you do that performance will go down. Less blades, less tillage.

My guess is that it shouldn't take too long to "over heat" a 70 hp tractor with a 100" tiller!! :>) I really don't think you will want to run that much tiller on that tractor less blades or not!! In my opinion, Howards recomended min. hp is too low to make the rotavator "work right"!! The time to get some blades off should be spent fixing the bigger tractor!! :>)

You won't need a gasket for the back cover. It's made to be removed in the field to change gears as needed. Tilt the tiller foreward, and you won't loose any oil either.

I only use "C" blades these days, as you have less breakage with them on big rocks as they get worn out. They do make a HD blade that is said to last longer, but i haven't tried them. The Howard rep at Louisville farm show told me they easily last longer to be worth the extra $$ they cost new. I have used "L" blades, and i can't see where they work any better (or worse) or use more hp that "C" blades.

Where do you live??? How much will you give me for my HR30 80"?? It's ready to go and has NOTHING wrong with it! I'm thinking of selling a couple, and getting out of the rotavateing business. My E-mail is agco@iserv.net

Hope this help you,

Robert

According to the Howard Technical Specifications any Rotovator starting with the HR35 and up, only has the gear drive, no chain drive available. I can't imagine Howard not stocking Gears for their big units. But that is a good question to ask my dealer, maybe even stock up on replacement gears. You see I have a good piece of ground, no rocks only roots and some small stumps. The stumps will be rotted and/ or taken out by the subsoiler in the fall. I spray the sod with Round Up once the tree patch is cleared to keep from using my mowers in the area where the tree spades have been and the tracked skid steers. The rotovators should go through the field nice and deep, once it is subsoiled very easliy.

I will check the gear oil, if you remove the cover on the drive area do you need to replace the gasket, If so I may have to purchase one and bring it with me,or just siphon it out. The tip on the running out of the ground is good, can use that.

The removing of the blades was only a consideration if my 120 HP tractor decides to surprise me at tilling time. (I just had a rash of unanticipated, odd repairs this spring). I have a 70HP that would fill in for it. The Howard Tech. Spec. states Min HP on HR40 100" is 84 HP. If I remove 12 blades That gives me 80" Min 68 HP. With the slower ground speed and type of soil I have it may make it without removing any blades. What did you mean by performance going down, if the blades are removed? Just less width tilled or Rotovator would be unbalanced?

This used Rotovator is bigger than I would buy, if I was buying new. The Size I would consider if buying new is HR30 to HR35 at 80" wide. But considering the New Smaller Ones are 4 to 5 thousand dollars more than the USED HR40 right off the bat, I'm taking an interest in it. I didn't even price the HR40 "New" yet! Bet it is close to 9 to 10 thousand dollars. If, the USED HR40 checks out in good condition, although something heavier than needed, I might be able to live with it.

I think I can straighten the leveling wheels out and give it a new coat of paint in house.

It says in the Tech. Spec that the "C" shaped speed blade uses less HP also, and incorprates sod and debris into the soil the best. I need to visit the dealer and see if he has the "C" shaped blades, to look at them.

Fortunately this used one is not that old, it is the current style they are still selling new.

So far, it sounds like Rotovating is tailored made to my operation. I am getting to old to change all those implements the old way.

Once again, thanks for the info Robert.

Allan

I was hoping you would respond, I have been reading some of your other responses on Howard Rotovators. I am inclined to agree with your reasoning in regards to the Rotovators performance. Someone like youself who have plowed and rotovated may offer a better perspective on the subject of rotovating than persons who only plowed but never rotovated. I also find your photos very interesting and helpful.

I thank you for your advice to my original posting, however, the unit I am looking at is like your HR30 unit style, not the older forrestal model. This unit unlike yours is gear driven, there is not a drive chain on it. Even though you do not have the gears on yours, what is your opinion on what I should check in this case.

Also, if I had to run it on one of my smaller tractors couldn't I remove some of the tine sets to bring it down to amanagable unit for a tractor with lower horse power? I like to have a back up plan if one of tractors break down during tilling operations.

I plan to subsoil in the fall and just rotovate the same field in the spring. I will be dealing with roots and spruce stumps 3 to 5 inches in diameter. (Christmas trees and Cut and dug). I am a one man operation, and need to elimminate the plowing Discing and harrowing, (Some times twice depending on weather).

This used unit is a bit rusted, but it seems sound, the leveling wheels are bent slightly and one leveling jack is missing its top. I have to give it a second look, I did not have the time or the knowledge to check out the side gears and or the Selectatilth gear box. Next trip, now with your help should give a better picture of the condition. If, I ask them to run it for me what should it do, or not do? What should I watch for?

Of course any other rotovator owners with first hand knowledge on what to look for,I would appriciate your advice too.

So Robert if you could share a little more advice it is welcome.

Thanks