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Tiling

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Al

01-22-2004 21:38:15




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Have seen farm properties listed as being "Tiled" what excatly is this process and how is it done?I assume it has to do with drainage.I have an area of my property that is very wet and would like to know if this would help.




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Doug

01-24-2004 06:12:34




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 Re: Tiling in reply to Al, 01-22-2004 21:38:15  
A friend of mine has a farm that was tiled back in the 30's. He has water running into his main ditch from the tiles year round. But as tractors became larger and heavier in the 70's - 80's they tended to crush the old tiles.

He leased his field out for two years, several years ago, and now has cattails growing in three spots due to crushed tiles. Now some areas are too wet for even his small tractor.

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Hugh MacKay

01-24-2004 13:52:25




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 Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Doug, 01-24-2004 06:12:34  
Doug: You make a good point, these tiles must be maintained. Every time you see a bad spot it must be repaired. What you have described is really worse than no tile at all, as it acts just like springs throughout the field, with water lines feeding them.

I rather doubt larger tractors are to blame for crushing tile unless someone was in there when it was just too wet. Trucks even light trucks do far more dammage than tractors. Any of the tractors from the 1950's are far heavier in pounds per square inch than a 300 hp articulated with duals. Tractors the size of the Farmall H or Cockshutt 30 will pull 3 times their own weight on a stone boat, on hard ground. Very few tractors will do that, none of the big ones will. It is simply because they just don't have the pounds per square inch of rubber on the ground. A single axle 60 series Chev truck with 5 ton on it, ( not a big load) will excert 5 times the pounds per square inch on the ground, that any tractor will. And what makes the truck even worse is the shape of it's tire. Thus the reason for grain buggies, floatation tires on wagons, manure spreaders, etc.

I had close to 300,000 feet of tile on my farm, some of it plastic, some clay and some wooden box. And yes the wood box drains installed in the 1920's and 30's are still working. With that many feet of tile you are always on the lookout for breaks. They are very easy to spot at planting time. I banned all trucks from my fields excpting empty pickups and that reduced the problem to almost nil. Frost does a bit of dammage as well. You must also keep those small animal trap doors in place at the end of the pipe. Tile is a tool of profitable agriculture and regular maintainence must be done. You can not put tile in the ground and say it's good for a 100 years without looking.

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hagan

01-24-2004 15:35:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Hugh MacKay, 01-24-2004 13:52:25  
you must have a awfully big farm to put that much tile on. I put in 2700 ft in the spring of 03 at a cost of $13000 and in the spring of 02 we put in a 4800 ft commuinty drain to drain the tiles from 3 farmers (myself and 2 other farmers) at a cost of $31000 it was from 4 to 9 ft deep and was not perferated it was made to just carry the drain water. The Govt did pay nearly 50% of the costs though

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hagan

01-24-2004 15:34:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Hugh MacKay, 01-24-2004 13:52:25  
you must have a awfully big farm to put that much tile on. I put in 2700 ft in the spring of 03 at a cost of $13000 and in the spring of 02 we put in a 4800 ft commuinty drain to drain the tiles from 3 farmers (myself and 2 other farmers) at a cost of $31000 it was from 4 to 9 ft deep and was not perferated it was made to just carry the drain water. The Govt did pay nearly 50% of the costs though

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Hugh MacKay

01-24-2004 17:19:28




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Tiling in reply to hagan, 01-24-2004 15:34:07  
hagan: It was 500 acres, but remember this drainage pipe went in over 3 generations, starting in the 1920's. Probably 10% of it was wooden box drains. 35% was clay tile done in the 40's, 50's and early 60's. I personally only did the plastic after that. That drainage went in for a song compared to today's prices. I haven't put in any tile since 1980.



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hagan

01-24-2004 17:40:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Hugh MacKay, 01-24-2004 17:19:28  
Ok now I see: sounds good to me. I do know that is about as hard a work as I ever did riding in that casket or steel sided sled to keep the walls from caving in on you when you are down there wearing irrigation boots and mud from head to toe on the last 1/4 mile. I know of a gal whom lost a teenage duaghter in Nebraska in 2000 it was tragic when the trench caved in and crushed her. I sure got a education on work and what it is like to lay drain line in 20 ft sections. The perferated (2003) was fed thru in a sled that the contractor made with side floats that were 10 inch I beam 10 ft apart for slides and it was 12 inches wide in the middle with a big plow point on the bottom and a gravel hopper on top and he just dug with the trackhoe about 4 ft deep and the sled fed gravel and perferated pipe when he pulled it foreward. It took him a short week to go the 2700 feet and it was dry that spring and there was no water or wet ground to contend with. We buried that pipe 6 ft deep. Now we are in the worst drought ever and none of the tile lines are flowing at all. I have lots of irrigated fields that I have not waterd in over 2 years due to lack of irrigation water. Hopefully we will be getting some spring moisture and winter snow pack in the rockies as I do not know how much longer my alfalfa fields can sub irrigate as the water levels are going down.

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Hugh MacKay

01-23-2004 16:03:23




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 Re: Tiling in reply to Al, 01-22-2004 21:38:15  
Al: Casey said it well. In much of the higher rain fall areas of North America it is almost a must for profitable farming.

I will keep this very brief. Your soil has a water table. If that water table is too near the surface when you plant, your new plants will only put a root system down to that water table. As the season dries somewhat that water table lowers. Your plants will not start regrowth to follow that water table, thus your crop esencially runs out of water. Tileing is usually placed at 30" to 36" keeping the water table at that level, thus quite a massive root system, and a water table that will less likely to leave it.

Of course you also have the added feature of better trafficability, this one alone can save you a lot of grief. I always said," IF you can drive a rear wheel drive auto across your field the days you plant and harvest, every year, you have good drainage.

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Dave H (MI)

01-23-2004 17:59:52




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 Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Hugh MacKay, 01-23-2004 16:03:23  
And if your car disappears from sight....you can blame HM!



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Casey

01-23-2004 04:11:04




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 Re: Tiling in reply to Al, 01-22-2004 21:38:15  
Tiled property has tile buried at a proper depth in order to allow better and quicker drainage of excess water. The tile nowadays is usually plastic and has holes every few inches to allow the water to enter the tile. Old tile was usually cement and the water entered at the joints, usually about one foot apart. The tile must have a proper outlet or it is useless to tile. This often is the major problem, and can require substancial ditching in order to get proper fall for the water.
The last time I tiled, it cost me about $500 an acre, with ditching being a major part of that cost. In our area tilling makes the differance between having a crop or not. My own experience has been that it is the best land that usually needs tiling and the land will go from the worst you have to the best once tiled. I would never even bother to try and farm land around here that was not tiled.

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tim[in]

02-01-2004 17:03:03




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 Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Casey, 01-23-2004 04:11:04  
i need to get my 30 acres tiled . it has made timley work or about anything impossible. one tiler mentioned 30" deep . 3" tile and a cost of about 40-60 cents a foot i believe to do the job. probably gonna get a little done at a time. but woner what costs are in different areas.



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Michael Soldan

01-24-2004 05:56:23




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 Re: Re: Tiling in reply to Casey, 01-23-2004 04:11:04  
Casey I always thought that water entered the clay tiles at each joint but I was shown different. Clay tile will absorb water through its porous sides as well. I had an old timer tell me that , then someone showed me, stood a clay tile up in a pan of water and filled the tile up with water ergo..water seeps slowly out of the tile. I have dug up "tile" made of cedar, cedar boards (3) nailed together in a triangular shape and laid into the ground to carry water. The oldest clay tile I dug up at the farm was a square tile about 4"x4" with a 2 1/2 inch hole through the middle. I have never seen tile like that anywhere else. We were tiling when I was about 13 and my job was to set the tiles in the sleeve of the "wheel machine" and as it moved along the tiles slide down into place, the operator had a long steel rod with a hook on the end and he would make sure the tile were correctly set. If I remember correctly the machine had a hitch on the side and our wagon , loaded with tile moved along with the digger. It took days to do 20 acres, now they can drain a whole farm in a day or so with the plastic. Ah those days of digging a broken tile up by hand..maybe having to dig 20 or 30 feet to find the break...dosen't happen much with plastic, though a neighbour had a coon crawl several hundred feet into a tile and die..that took some digging and searching....Mike in Exeter Ontario

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