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Leroy pretty much covered all the questions... {size/configuration questions} that need answered before you buy a cultipacker. However, you may want to choose which sort of tines you want on the thing {"C" shank or Danish "S" shank}. I have two cultipackers that have the "C" shank and they are terrible for incorporating chemicals. The neighbor has one with "S" shanks, it incorporates well but it "balls-up" in heavy trash conditions. Also, do you want a harrow dragging behind it? I have a "Remlinger" (spike-tooth) for one and a "Midwest" spring-tooth on the other. I like the Midwest... and took the Remlinger off {too heavy}. A few things to remember if you get a cultipacker: *NEVER, turn around at the ends (or even tight turns along edges) with the thing in the ground, or even barely dragging the ground {that's a good way to ruin the bearings}! *NEVER, over-tighten the rollers (sliding them together on the shafts) to the point that you have one solid roller (with no endplay). There must be some movement (very slight freeplay) for each roller segment to just turn independently on the axle. Tightening them into one solid line of rollers is a good way to tear out an axle {each segment MUST have the ability to rotate at a different rate than the roller segment next to it...}. Bad brand = Kewanee! Very poor quality of frame construction... Good rollers, everything else about them though is junk! I have used my big cultipacker as a finishing tool to prepare clover/timothy filterstip plots, and for preparing alfalfa fields... works great! Good Luck!
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