3pt plow setup/adjustment HELP!

Yep, this is the point I was trying to make. Actual plowing depth is set at the rearmost bottom and the hitch is then adjusted up or down to match that depth at the front bottom.

Now, if that center link is trying to pull the rear bottom out of the ground, or push it deeper, it is just interfering with things.

When the plow is set correctly and running right, the pins on that center link should just be uselessly floating and mindlessly jiggling in their holes. If it is cranked too tight in either direction, it will not work; you can't ‘force it in the ground or use the center link to “hold it out”. The center link should not be a hindrance to the plow in operation and should be completely out of the picture.

However, the part I don't understand is why you think you need to put the tractor up on blocks to set it up? Just set the lift to float (left side to right side) when it's in the lowered position and you can plow 3" deep or 10. Doesn't matter a fig ‘cause the hitch’s “dropped float” compensates for the furrow depth or the “leaning” of the tractor.

Any 3-point hitch worth 6 eggs will have this “option” to allow the ‘overrun’ at the arm drop to compensate for the tractor having to run cockeyed in the furrow.

Allan

The draft control is actually only working and lifting at one arm to controll the depth of that front bottom.

This is because the "other" arm has over-run on the drop, is in a floating mode and and is not in a position to lift against the upper jackbolt.

Yeah, I know. I'm a troublemaker. :>(

Allan

Ron..

Heck, I dunno. Maybe I'm just near-sighted and IH is the only one that had this option?

Anyway, on IH's 3-points for as far back as I can remember had the "float" option on the lift.

Both arms do physically 'move' with the draft, of course, but only one is actually in contact with the load because the tractor is setting "tipped" in the furrow while the plow and it's hitch must remain setting level.

Allan

Allan

Ron..

Ron..

Ron..

Ron..

Ron..

I don't know anything about your plow nor what tractor you are using. Also, you didn't say how wide a cut you are taking.

All things being equal, that plow wants to go straight ahead unless it's frame is sprung in some way. If the frame of the plow is not damaged, the problem lies in the way you have the tractor set up.

My gut tells me that you have the stance on the tires wrong, like Hugh says. "The right tractor wheel is in all the way." just doesn't sound right to me. It sounds as though you are trying to cheat that front bottom out of real estate and it is pulling left tryin' to gain more "row".

Also, here are some things to think about. The worst thing you can do is try to "force" the plow to go where you want by fiddlin' with that silly 3-point.

When it is pulling true, the only thing that even enters the equation is the pull at the lower links and even that is just a forward direction tug; just as if you were pulling with a drawbar.

You should be able to take that top link completely off the tractor and throw it away, because you don't need again until you lift the plow out of the ground; that is all the top link is used for.

Do you have the collars dropped down on the lift links so that the plow can run true laterally? This one is in the 'up' position. For plowing, it needs to be lowered to the bottom dimple. This lets it 'float' and will allow for the furrow depth difference.

Hope ya get 'er,

Allan

What I gave you was an aproximate rear wheel tread setting between 66" and 72" and that depends on two factors; width of rear tire and width of cut of each furrow of the 4 bottom plow.

Mike has suggested 25" from center line of tractor to inside of right rear tire. Somewhere in this thread you may have indicated width of cut of each bottom, if so I missed it. No doubt 25" is correct for one of the following but not all. 4x12, 4x14, 4x16 or 4x18. Each of those 4 plows will have a different ideal rear wheel setting.

Sometimes on farm, it is not possible to have that ideal setting due to other work tractor performs, thus the reason for plow settings, but that will only go so far. Changing wheel tread every time you plow is a poor option, as it's heavy work, plus once wheels are tight and set they stay tight. As much as possible farmers matched all equipment to the wheel settings best for their situation and never moved them again.

I pull 4x14" with an Allis WD-45....about 45 HP..!! The rear "Heel", or rolling furrow wheel should "just" leave a mark in the bottom of the furrow--once the plow is fully in the ground..but should leave a steady mark on the Side of the furrow.... The coulters should cut just slightly to the Left of the shin, to not leave quite a vertical furrow side..that way, the Cover-boards curl the top down into the furrow, covering any grass or weeds.. For 16" bottoms, 8" is about right, if you plan to plow that deep.. Ron..

Your figure of 25" from center line of tractor to inside of right rear tire may be right for one particular plow, however that figure will change depending on whether plow is 12", 14", 16" or 18". It will change again with number of bottoms.