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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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How I got my rear wheels off.

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1944 B

01-07-2004 22:40:44




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12 Ton Jack and 1 inch thick plate steel. Hope this helps.




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David Bacon

01-11-2004 20:09:39




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 Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to 1944 B, 01-07-2004 22:40:44  
Do all the above, but WITH the jack in place, go for a drive with it, This of course is no time to have your head up your butt. Do not stick the clutch, and lower gears are a must. Do not drive near the beach WHERE THE YOUNG LADIES ARE SUNBATHING. The more you twist the steering wheel and hard brake the better. Dave NE Iowa



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Paul

01-09-2004 05:02:17




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 Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to 1944 B, 01-07-2004 22:40:44  
1944 B and to everyone else. Thanks for all the useful tips in removing of a wheel. I am going to have my hands full as I have to B's. On the one that I am going to keep, I have to remove the wheels as they were loaded with calcium chloride and ate through the rims. The other is my parts tractor and the rims are in good shape. Hence, I will be doing this task 4 times. I will try to do this operation as safely as possible and hopefully I will be successful. I will keep y'all posted as this job progresses. Thanks again for all your help.

Paul

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Paul from MI

01-08-2004 18:24:02




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 Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to 1944 B, 01-07-2004 22:40:44  
You guys are all on the right track. The secret is to keep all of the force between the hub and the axle, never putting any excess force on the axle bearings. At least if you do break anything, it's going to be on the outside. I've used a puller set-up similar to the one pictured, but don't use a jack. I use a plate with three threaded rods to match the hubs, with some kind of spacer between the plate and the end of the axle if needed. Lots of PB or your favorite poison and time. Patience is your friend here, don't try to hurry. Keep steady pressure on with your puller setup and keep tapping the outside of the hub with a 3# hammer as you rotate the wheel. Sometimes it will take a week or more, just keep hitting that hub a couple of times a day with pressure on it. The only time I ever broke a hub was when I hurried. Good Luck, Paul

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Paul

01-08-2004 10:43:07




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 Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to 1944 B, 01-07-2004 22:40:44  
George,

What kind of 12 ton jack did you use? I have to do the same operation on my B's and I have been wondering how to go about doing so since my bottle jack wouldn't work since the hydralic fluid drained to the one side. Would you be willing to send a few more pictures demonstrating what you did?

Regards,

Paul in Texas



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Jack instructions

01-08-2004 15:54:04




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 Re: Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 10:43:07  
When using the jack on its side, just be sure to have the pump on the bottom and it will pump and work just fine.



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1944 B

01-08-2004 14:39:54




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 Re: Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 10:43:07  
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This wheel was really stuck. My best guess is it had not been off in approx. 30 years. My brother welded the rods with bolts welded onto the end, to the 1 inch thick plate.



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Ralph

01-08-2004 13:38:33




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 Re: Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to Paul, 01-08-2004 10:43:07  
Rotate the jack about the cylinder axis. WE were straightening a barn beam 10x10 50 years ago. Jack wouldn't work. Rotated jack 180 and pushed the bean back into place. Bolted on a couple of 2x10s for a splint. Jack may need fluid.



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George

01-08-2004 02:53:42




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 Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to 1944 B, 01-07-2004 22:40:44  
Been through the same problem. After a period of squirting all sorts of penetrating oil on the splines which I felt wasn't getting me anywhere, here's what I did to get the wheels off a '36 B:

1) Loosened hub collars.

2) Jacked up one side of the tractor so the tire cleared the floor by about 8". Placed wood block under tire and lowered jack.

3) Started tractor.

4) On the high side of both hubs I applied penetrating oil (in my case, Gibb's) to the splines.

5) Let the tractor run for an hour or so.

6) Jack up tractor, rotate both tires 1/3 turn, and repeat.

7) Once you have three times, you place the block under the other tire and start over.

The idea behind this is that the side pressure on the hub and the engine vibration creates some motion between the splines and hubs. The tilted splines create little reservoirs for the penetrating oil -- between gravity, spline-to-hub movement and engine vibration, a pumping action was created that drew the oil into the spline interface. Then go back to your puller. At least this is what worked for me.

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Russ

01-08-2004 15:39:10




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 Re: Re: How I got my rear wheels off. in reply to George, 01-08-2004 02:53:42  
Hub Victory; I like what George suggested. My 1948 JD B was rusted like all the others. I cleaned the exposed splines with a small sharp chisel, wire brushed the slide out spline areas, drenched the hub/spline area with PB Rust for a couple days, on the cast iron hub. I attached a length of 3/8 chain over the axle stub, installed a manual Port-O-Power hydraulic segment with ends
between the axle and the chain, pumped up to a fearful tension, then wacked the wheel casting with a sledge hammer at 180 degrees (alternating wacks). After respotting the hydraulic spreader, hammering,and spraying PB Rust many, many times I was able to witness how heavy the tire, wheel and hub are when off the tractor. I suspect this is never an easy job after 30 or 40 plus years of sedate rust. During the above task a 3 Ton jack held the right rear traction tire just above the pavement.

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