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1936 D

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JD1936D

05-06-2003 15:43:53




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Hi everyone. Today is a great day! I finally got my 1936 John Deere D running! I bought it from the original owners son and it hadnt run in atleast ten years, but it was not stuck. I have Branson Enterprises repair the Splitdorf mag(ouch, expensive) and a friend did the carb. Just added oil, water, rigged up a little gas tank and went to cranking(watch out for gas spraying out the petcocks directly on your leg!!). So it started but it was making a loud popping in the air intake/cleaner and had pressure pushing back out the bottom and blew the oil pan off the bottom of it, got really hot quick, and does not run as smoothly as most john deeres. Could this be a timing problem? Im only 14 and its my first john deere restoration and im not sure whats wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. Does anyone know where I can get the clamps that hold the extension rims on?I think there are 6 per wheel and I need a couple. Thanks

Matt

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Will P

05-06-2003 19:37:57




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 Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 15:43:53  
Matt,

Congratulations on getting the D to run. Follow the previous posts and you will get it running good.

One thing, you said she runs hot? I am not familiar with the D. Can and did you flush out the cooling system? When I took my B apart I had acorns in the water jacket. Some how they got in there? Just make sure the passages don't have junk in them and the water flows better.

Don't give up. Once she gives a pop. It is all just fine tuning.

Will P

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Bill

05-06-2003 18:40:06




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 Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 15:43:53  
Matt,
Congradulations!! I am sooooo jealous you are working on my dream machine! good luck and post back often I am looking forward to see your progress. I hope you can get some pictures out to us all here will love to see the fruit of your labors!!!

You dog you!!



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Clooney

05-06-2003 17:49:26




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 Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 15:43:53  
Matt, you definitely have a mis-fire that is popping back into the intake manifold. It could very well be a sticking intake valve or even an exhaust valve that's not opening. ~You might want to run it a little bit & see if both sides of the exhaust manifold are running the same temperature. If one side is colder at least you will know what side your problem is on.
~Start with a compression test to see if you have compression on both sides as that will tell you a lot right there.
~If the compression is good try a new set of spark plugs just to eliminate that as the problem.
~Don't worry about all that fuel coming out the petcocks, that is normal on a D & you might want to solder some copper tubes to the petcocks to divert some of that blowing fuel towards the ground under the cylinder block.
~Make sure the carb is set correctly..try the idle needle about 2 turns out from seated & the load screw about 1-1/2 turn out from seated [at least until you get it running better].
~You might want to check the intake/exhaust manifold for a good seal to the cylinder head as that is a problem area on the D.
~If nothing found in the above MAKE SURE the mag is installed correctly & make sure the spark is occurring at piston TDC compression on both sides. That Splitdorf mag can be installed so it will fire one side on compression & the other side not on compression. If one side fires at the wrong time it can backfire like your does.

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JD1936D

05-06-2003 18:12:50




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 Re: Re: 1936 D in reply to Clooney , 05-06-2003 17:49:26  
We have the mag set so it fires the left side at left hand impulse at 3 oclock but should the right hand fire at the 3 oclock postion also? right now if fires at about 1-2 oclock? Im not sure if it is supposed to fire at 3 also how do i change it without messing up the left side? Thanks. You guys are all great.

Matt



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John T

05-06-2003 22:30:17




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 Re: Re: Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 18:12:50  
Hi again Matt, Like I said below, the Left side should be firing at TDC on its compression power stroke, and then the right side plug should be firing 180 degrees of crank rotation after the left, that TDC of its compression power stroke. Is that how yours is working now???? If not post back. Have you looked at the intake valves yet to check their lash???


John T



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Clooney

05-06-2003 19:05:17




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 Re: Re: Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 18:12:50  
Matt, as you have it now the L/H should spark with L/H impulse on flywheel at the case mark. Then turn the flywheel 180° [1/2 turn] in the running direction so the slot in the flywheel is parallel with the ground again & at that time the R/H plug should spark. If it doesn't [& it doesn't sound like you have it correct now] you might have the wrong wire tower on the mag hooked to the L/H side plug & the mag out of time 180°. You might have to fool with the mag wire side position & trying the mag 1/2 turn forward or backwards to get it correct..... When it's correct the L/H side should spark at TDC compression, then 180° [1/2 flywheel turn] later the R/H side should spark at TDC compression. TDC on the L/H side is L/H impulse at the case mark & TDC on the R/H side is when the L/H impulse mark on the flywheel is straight forward. Compression is obviously when the cylinder is making pressure at the plug hole..... .Let us know how it turns out?

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John T

05-06-2003 16:40:37




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 Re: 1936 D in reply to JD1936D, 05-06-2003 15:43:53  
Congratulation Matt, Good Job. Im not much of a D man, so take this for whats its worth, but that popping out the carbs intake and pressurizing the air cleaner may be caused by at least one of the cylinders firing (exploding creating pressure) out/past the intake valve (which leads through the manifold to the carbs intake and air cleaner), probably cuz its sticking and/or not sealing properly or not adjusted (lash too tight) right not allowing it to close completely. Out of time can cause such things, but if it started and ran it cant be extremely out of time. Also, if the choke isnt working right or the carbs float or for some other reason like you flooded her bad, theres an accumulation of raw fuel lying in the manifold or carb, it can ignite and cause that back pressure you mentioned. You should get gas vapor out the petcock, and if you get a lot of pure gas, youre flooding her which can cause problems once the plugs eventually fire.

The proper initial start up timing is when the left hand (flywheel side) cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression power stroke, the Left Hand Impulse timign mark on the flywheel should be in the 3 o clock position and just passsing by the flat horizontal mark on the tractors side. If you have the plugs removed for easy flywheel turning, you should hear the mag and plug fire just as the flywheel is rotated past that mark at 3 o clock. If she fires too soon before then (too far advanced timing) the flywheel may kick back, but if too far after then (timing slow retarted) its harder to start.

Even though Im not much an a D, I will venture a guess that one cyliner has a leaky or sticking intake valve or its lash adjustment is set too tight not allowing it to close and seal properly, so when the fuel charge explodes, it blows hot gas pressure and heat through the carb to the air cleaner. Have you taken a look at the valve lash clearances????? One of the intake valves may be set way too close/tight. You may have some carb or choke and timing problems also, but check the intake valves (including lash clearance) and let us know what you find. If one of the cylinders has a leaky intake valve, when you turn her by hand up on compression on that cylinder (disconenct plugs so she dotn start) it may be detectable by the presure escaping out backwards through the carb. (Take off air pipe and look and listen) You might be able to see the vapor and/or hear if compression is leaking back through the carb. Also, a compression check on a cylinder with a leaky valve will be way less than the other cylinder assuming its valves are okay.

Good luck with the old girl.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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