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2010 runs great....for 15 minutes

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michael mendoza

05-25-2003 16:28:26




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I have a 2010 gas with a rebuilt engine and a myriad of miscellaneous quirks. I have replaced the needle and seat in the carb and installed a new rotor cap and wires last spring.

I use the tractor with a 5 foot bush hog to mow about 4 acres a couple of times a year. The tractor has always worked great until last fall, when it started to miss under load after the tractor was thoroughly warmed up. Both yesterday and today, the tractor ran fine for 15 minutes until it started to miss so much that it eventually stalled. The tractor started again immediately, but would continue to miss every 30 seconds or so.

Has anyone had a similar experience with a 2010 gas or similar JD? Any help would be much appreciated.

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michael mendoza

05-27-2003 05:28:16




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
Thank you all for your help. I know that my fuel tank has some deposits in it, so next weekend I will clean out my carb fuel screen and see if that's the problem. I am also going to order a new coil, since the one on the tractor is looking pretty rough.

Thanks again. You've given me a couple of good places to start.



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John de Marrais

05-26-2003 06:44:22




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
It could be a million things,however . . . If you suspect the igniton, the 1010s and 2010s had an update kit in the 60s for making the ignition ballast resistor more reliable. I don't know what version you have. One is built into the igniton switch and one is a separate automotive type resistor. Either way, the resistor is supposed to get hot once the tractor runs for a little while and cut back on current going to your ignition coil. The purpose being to make your ignition points last longer. Often these resistors go bad and then your spark starts to crap out when the tractor warms up. Simply run a jumper wire from a direct battery source to your ignition coil (the terminal that does NOT go to the distributor). It the tractor then runs good, you know what the problem is. Looking at another possible problem, i.e. the electric fuel shut off in the carb. It can be replaced with a regular adjustable main jet, or, on some of them, you can pull out the plunger inside and put it back together so it has no shut off at all.

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Mark

05-26-2003 06:16:18




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
I had a British Leyland with the same problem. It turned out to be weeds in the gas tank. The material would break down and eventually plug the fuel lines.

Took the tank off cleaned along with the fuel lines and it ran great.



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cannonball

05-26-2003 04:44:29




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
try a new coil.....



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Lee

05-26-2003 03:51:41




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
Could also be the condensor in the distributor, when they got hot sometimes they will short out and not give you a good enough spark for the tractor to run good.



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Loren

05-25-2003 18:51:13




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
Sounds like the problem I had with my 1010. Turned out to be a plugged fuel screen. I have no idea how similar or different your carb would be from mine, but the screen is inside the carb top where the fuel line attaches. Take off the fuel line and then take out the fitting that the line fits into.



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jdman(MO)

05-25-2003 18:46:59




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 Re: 2010 runs great....for 15 minutes in reply to michael mendoza, 05-25-2003 16:28:26  
Had the same problem on a 2020 gas, was the automatic shutoff valve on the carb.Make sure it is getting power with the switch on. If so check for contuinity of the solenoid coil. Russ



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