Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
:

B Rebuild (clooney, john T or others?)

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
37G

01-11-2004 14:54:53




Report to Moderator

I pulled the head on my 4 bolt B today and found a lot of nuts, rust and otherstuff built up. The cylinders don't seem to be pitted. The engine was loose when i got it but it only turns about 1/3 of a full revolution. What might be causing the engine to get stuck the rest of the way. Where would you go or what would you do next if you where in my shoes. Do i need to remove the block? Is it something in the main case that is stuck or hung up? Another question do i need to rebore the block or will honing do the job. Or what is the best. Since you prob cant determine this without seeing it i guess i am looking for what might be some guidelines or signs that i need to do one over the other. I appeciate any help you give me and will be needing much more help in the future. Thanks

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Clooney

01-12-2004 04:01:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: B Rebuild (clooney, john T or others?) in reply to 37G, 01-11-2004 14:54:53  
37G, you have some good advise below..

~Lets go a little farther & answer a few of your questions…


~”What might be causing the engine to get stuck the rest of the way”…>>> Answ, if removing the head & removing all that junk didn’t free the engine up to allow a full turn I agree with Duane & Old that you could still have rust or varnish under or behind the pistons.. Or you have a bearing problem, or you have a governor problem, or something else in the gear train like the mag or timing gears.. Will the clutch release? [can you spin it when released & the trans in neutral?] If not suspect a trans problem [or it’s in gear] possibly causing your problem.. You will just have to start removing things & lubricating things until you find your problem [once you find your problem post back & we’ll help you repair it].


~”Where would you go or what would you do next if you where in my shoes”…>>> Answ, I would free the engine up & get it running to see what other problems you have before getting too involved.. You don’t want to spend a lot of time & money on the engine then find you have a serious trans problem.

~”Do i need to remove the block?:…>>> Answ, probably you will need to eventually but for now try to get it running to see what other problems you have.. Maybe just pull the pistons out & measure the cylinder wear, taper, & out-of-round.. Then give the cylinders a light hone the see if it will run..

~”Is it something in the main case that is stuck or hung up?”…>>> Answ, possibly [see above] you really need to find the hang up before you can go on with the project.. The hang up problem must be addressed before you can go on further..


~”Another question do i need to rebore the block or will honing do the job. Or what is the best”…>>> Answ, That will be determined by the wear you measured per the above, your budget, & what you expect of that tractor in the future.. You really don’t want to put $5,000 dollars into it if you are just going to parade it twice a year but then again you don’t want to take shortcuts if you are going to farm with it.. If this is your first restoration you really want to sit down & figure out what you expect of this tractor when done.. You can easily put WAY more money into it than you would ever think & unless there is a good reason you might be better off buying a better tractor to begin with.. I guess the first thing to do is find out what all’s wrong with it.

~”Since you prob cant determine this without seeing it I guess I am looking for what might be some guidelines or signs that I need to do one over the other”…>>> Answ, I would say the first thing to do is get it freed up, then try to get it running & evaluate it’s overall condition, then figure out what else is wrong, then determine if you want to spend the money & labor involved to get it to where you want..

JDClooney@aol.com

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Duane Larson

01-11-2004 16:48:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: B Rebuild (clooney, john T or others?) in reply to 37G, 01-11-2004 14:54:53  
37G,
Well, it sounds like you have a good start, with apparently reasonable cylinders. One school of thought is to pull engines down and just go through them. I prefer to work my way through and determine just what may need to be done. So, first thing would be to get the flywheel to make a complete revolution, after cleaning all the junk out that is accessible. I would remove the crankcase cover to get access to the rear of the cylinders also. Then try to work some oil between the pistons/rings and cylinder - it may just be dry and hard to turn. Squirt oil in front of and in the rear of the cylinders, rock the flywheel, squirt more oil, etc. Looking in the back will also help confirm there is no physical reason (blockage) the crank won't turn. If you get it loose and freely turning it may be useful to replace the head (after checking the valve seats and valves for good seating) and see what the compression is like. If it is adequate, change the fluids, get a good hot spark, check the carb for proper fluid flow (there is LOTS of carb info on this site if you do a search), and see if it will run. Then check for any engine problems. If it smokes after some running time, it may need further checking - rings, cylinders out of round, etc. But if it runs to your satisfaction, have some fun!

Clooney and others will likely have other suggestions of things to try.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
old

01-11-2004 16:45:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: B Rebuild (clooney, john T or others?) in reply to 37G, 01-11-2004 14:54:53  
Well I'm not clooney, hes good but I can make a couple guess and give you an idea or 2, I'd pull the plate that has the oil filler pipe on it. That way you can see the crank/rods, etc. and then I'd fill it up really full with oil the problem is probably rust on the cylinders under where the rings are now. But like I said I'm only guessing it could be some thing else also I have a 35 B that if valu bitl would get me the right oil pump I'd have running oh well it will be sone. hope this helps some

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy