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4010 starter solenoid

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Jim Luckie

09-17-2003 08:50:42




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I recently converted my 4010 to 12v system and I cannot figure out what is wrong with it. On the starter solenoid I have a constant hot coming from the battery on one side (tests 12v), on the other side I have a heavy wire going to the starter, on top I have a 10 or 12 ga wire coming from ignition switch that tests 12v upon turning the key. I can jump from one side to the other and it will crank but when I turn the key nothing. Am I missing something? There is another post on top of the solenoid but the wiring diagram that came with the conversion kit from jd doesn't show anything here.

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John T

09-17-2003 10:03:03




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 Re: 4010 starter solenoid in reply to Jim Luckie, 09-17-2003 08:50:42  
Good Morning Jim, If the solenoid works, hopefully its just slightly mis wired and maybe we can get you going. This may repeat some of what you posted, but I will go step by step on how most solenoid type systems work. In case all else fails what does the wirign diagram you have regardign the solenoid have to say lol????? It may show that other lil unused terminal needs to be grounded????? ????? ?? If youre gettign 12 volts down there from the switch, the coil still has to have a return current path, via either case ground or another lil terminal which is grounded usually.

1) Usually, there would be 2 big posts and 1 or 2 smaller terminals on a solenoid. The big ones have a big hot battery cable on one and the other goes to the starter post (when solenoid kicks in those are switched together and starter cranks).

2) Next, they have 1 little one IF the solenoids coil return path is via ground (in which case the metllic solenoid mount has to have a good frame ground connection) and the single lil terminal has to get 12 volts when a start type switch is engaged.

OR

They may have 2 little ones, one of which receives 12 volts when a momentary start type switch is depressed and the other one gets grounded.

QUESTIONS: You say turnign the key energizes a 12 gauge wire down to the solenoid, thats the one intended to provide voltage to one of the solenoids lil terminals which should pull the solenoid in IF the other end of the solenoids coil has a return path to ground. So, if youre getting 12 volts down there but the solenoids not engaging, I wonder if or why the coils other end (a second lil terminal or via case ground) isnt gettign a ground return path?????

Things which may be needed are a ground wire from that unused lil solenoid terminal to tractor steel frame ground OR the solenoids steel case doesnt have a good solid connection to frame case ground (if ones needed) OR maybe the switched wire isnt connected to the correct terminal on the solenoid????? ????

When you say you jump from one side to the other she cranks, do you mean you jump the 2 big posts together????? ?? (If so that by passes the solenoid, but thats a very high current maybe high heat thing to do)

OR do you mean you jump a hot wire to one of the solenoids lil terminals and that engages the solenoids coil????? ???

You might see if the solenoids steel case is well grounded (if its a 1 lil terminal type solenoid with case ground return),,,,, ,,,,, ,,, OR,,,,, ,,,,,try temporarily grounding the other lil terminal (NOT the one thats connected to the wire down from the switch) ,,,,, ,,,,, ,,,,,OR,,,,, ,,,,, ,Use a hot wire jumper and momentarily spark/touch one of the lil terminals and see if power to it makes the solenoid pull in (still the other side of the coil needs a return path, be it frame ground or the other lil terminal is grounded)

USE CAUTION AND DO NOT CONNECT ANY HOT WIRE TO A TERMINAL THATS GROUNDED OR TO FRAME GROUND. The solenoids coil has a low DC resistance, but its enough to prevent a direct heat or major spark producing arc when connected.

The circuit and wire from the start switch down to the solenoid has to be good and supply 12 volts at only a few amps, but if theres a problem in that wire or circuit or the switch or the circuit feeding the switch it can fail, but the hot wire test right at the solenoids lil terminal by passes all that.

Also, if the solenoid is working but theres a prbolem in the starter or starter circuit or battery etc., the solenoid could pull in but the starter still not crank. Does the solenoid click or do anything at all as wired when you trun the switch?????

Post back or e mail me at jmn50@msn.com or call me at (812) 824-4608 with any questions. Let me know what you find and CHECK THE WIRING DIAGRAM AND SEE IF THE UNUSED TERMINAL OR THE CASE NEEDS TO BE GROUNDED and if so it is actually well grounded, cuz I feel you may simply not have a return current path for the solenoid coils other (non switched) end.

Good luck and God Bless John T

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Jim Luckie

09-18-2003 08:40:36




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 Re: Re: 4010 starter solenoid in reply to John T, 09-17-2003 10:03:03  
I went back and double checked everything then grounded the other small terminal on top of the solenoid and everything is like you describe. I am beginning to think that I have -2- faulty starter solenoids. I know that this is improbable but not impossible considering they are both new (The first one may not have been bad as I didn't ground the other small terminal while it was hooked up.) BTW just wanted to say thank you for all of the help

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