|
Good Morning Joe, Lots of questions so I will try and hit on all of them. 1) How to tell if its a 6 or 12 volt coil? If it ACTUALLY ORIGINALLY had a ballast resistor (in line series between ignition switch and coil) and a by pass circuit, it was probably a 6 volt coil. If you measure the coils primary DC resistance between the lil + and - terminals, if its like 1.5 to a lil over 2 ohms, its probably a 6 volt coil. If its like around 2.5 to 3 ohms, its probably a 12 volt coil. 2a) Can you still add the by pass circuit (R on Solenoid to coil)?? Yes, you could still add a ballast by pass (assuming thats what you actually have) and it would cause increased current to flow through the coil ONLY when cranking then take it back to the intended 6 volts and proper current when running. That electronig ignition switch (same as points did) serves as the ground return path for the coils - side. The voltage on the coils + side is what you put there, regardless if 12 volts from the switch or only 6 caused by a series voltage dropping ballast resistor. The electronic switch will still close providing a ground return path regardless what coil or coil plus ballast is ahead of it PROVIDED THE SWITCH HAS THE PROPER INPUT VOLTAGE (6 or 12) TO OPERATE ITS CIRCUITS. If it has a lead thats posed to see 12 volts, it should be wired to the switch ahead of the ballast. I think on regualar 12 volt operation, it can get its operating power from the coils + input side?? 2b) Will it improve starting?? If you put more energy into a coil (more current) it stores more energy and discharges more energy across the plugs gap. Therefore, if when starting (via a by pass circuit) you put more voltage on and current through the coil, YES you get more spark energy. Im NOT sayign you will notice much startign performance increase, Im just talking physics and energy here saying you get more spark energy if you increase coil current. Again, the electronic switch just serves as the ground return path for coil current, regardless of whats ahead of it (12 or 6 volts) assuming the switch works that way. 3) Do you even need the ballast at all?? YES you still need to limit the coils current to what it was designed for and if its a 6 volt, it ought to see 6, not 12 volts on its input, otherwise it draws excess currrent and can overheat and degrade. The switch is on its - return side and when its closed, the coil will draw whatever current it was designed for at its designed input voltage spec. If its a 6 volt coil and you apply 12 (no ballast) it draws twice its intended current, regardless if you close the switch with a set of points or a transistor. YES IF ITS A 6 VOLT COIL STILL USE THE BALLAST SO IT JUST SEES 12 VOLTS AND DRAWS ITS PROPER CURRENT 4) WOULD USE OF A 12 VOLT COIL AND BY PASSING IT GIVE A HOTTER SPRAK WHEN RUNNING AND BE OKAY ON THE ELEC IGNITION??? First, if you use a 12 volt coil, YOU DONT WANT OR NEED ANY BALLAST, otherwise you are only using 6 when the coil was desgned for 12 volts and it wont store as much energy or give as much spark energy. FINAL THOUGHTS. If you actually have a factory ballast resistor and by pass system and the original 6 volt coil , I would use the by pass circuit and definitely still use the series ballast, otherwise the coil can overheat. It will increase spark energy when cranking, regardless if you notice any difference. The elec switch (if it has a wire thats posed to see 12 volts???) probably still should be wired up to the switch ahead of the by pass where its 12, not 6 volts. The coils output still gets its ground return path from the switch (same as points). With that elec switch, you couild get by without the by pass as it provides good startign even without it. If its a 12 volt coil, you should not only not have but not use any ballast. I have to run, Im taking my dear old 80 yo mother on a 2 day trip so post back or e mail jmn50@msn.com and I will help more when I get back. Good Luck n God Bless John T Nordhoff in Indiana
| 
