torqueing head on GM what do you do, use.

~One other thing.. Be real careful if doing that job with the radiator & frame still attached.. Horsing that heavy head around in that confined space it's REAL EASY to bump or nick that head gasket & that can spell trouble.. If you can get a helper to assist you it will make the job go much easier…

JDClooney@aol.com

John T

~On the steel composite gaskets I first run the palm of my hand over the cyl head & block surface to look for any irregularities [if any found use a fine stone to remove them], then run the nuts on the exposed studs to make sure they spin on smoothly without sticking or having tight spots [if tight spots found remove the tight spots with a proper sized die or thread chaser].. Then clean the block surface & head surface with lacquer thinner or brake clean to remove any oils or other contaminants..

~Then [I personally] give the head gasket a very light coat of #3 Permatex on both sides except on the folded fire rings around the combustion chambers.. Then slide the head gasket on the studs [the smooth side goes towards the block if you can determine a smooth side].. Then slide [actually horse] the cyl head back into the tractor.. Then if the upper cyl studs had to be removed to get the head out reinstall those using either Lock-Tite PST or Loc-Tite 242 on the studs to cyl, holes, then tighten the studs [those studs must be sealed to the block]..

~Once the head & studs are in place put a lead washer on each stud [or better yet two] & install the nuts with flat smooth side towards the head… Then [I personally] put a dab of Loc-Tite PST on the studs right above the cyl head top [I just want the nuts to get into that PST on about the last thread or two to seal the nut threads to stud threads [that prevents water from wicking up the stud between the nut & stud]..

~Now it’s time to tighten the nuts--- Start out with a conventional ratchet & just tighten the nuts in stages from the center out working in a criss/cross pattern.. once those nuts fairly tight move on to the torque wrench.. Tighten all the nuts to around 100-125’ lbs or so & get them even, then work the torque up in 20# increments until around 175’-185’ lbs or so [again start in the center & work your way towards the outside] … Then work the last stage up in 10# increments to 208’ lbs..

~After you get the tractor back together & running, run it through a few heating & cooling cycles then pull the rocker cover back off do a re-torque to 208” lbs again.. [important! If gasket sealer is used on the head gasket a re-torque is a must]

That should give you a long life on that gasket & no internal or external water leaks..

Any questions just post back or E-Mail-- [you might be better off posting here as I’m about 2 weeks behind on the E-Mails right now]…

JDClooney@aol.com

~You also have to keep in mind that the torque to break a pre-torqued nut loose will be higher than the initial torque to put it there.. Keeping that in mind I always add about 10# to the initial torque & see if the nut moves. If not it is good to go..

JDClooney@aol.com

I insure the studs threads are clean and wire brushed free of any old lead and snug them all down in the proper torque sequence to less than 100 (short ratchet, maybe 75 or so) and then slowly in 10 lb increments in sequence pull them down to spec, Then after a few good warm ups, give them another retorque.

This is one of those type questions that usually garners plenty of methods n different opinions (about like spark plugs or oil lol) from the use of oil to spray paint to nothing etc so this is simply whats worked well for me over the years. Im sure a sealant expert could give us all a lesson in the best methods and sealants to use and its a great question and maybe we can all learn something.

Good Luck n God Bless

John T