WICO Distributor Problems

I can't get any spark. It has a WICO Distributor. I have 12 Volts all the way to the wires that actually run into the coil.

Comming out of the coil, I seem to have nothing. The little metal bead on the front of the coil where the power goes from the coil to the rotor button is where I am testing it at. It has no voltage there.

I'm inclined to buy a new coil but before I start spending money, I'd like to make sure I'm heading in the right direction with this.

I'm a diesel guy so ignition systems are all greek to me.

I'd appreciate any help on this.

Thanks,

David

It sounds like youre trying to test it at the coils high voltage secondary output button/terminal, but be careful cuz if it works thats several thousand volts and could wreak havoc on a voltmeter.

For it to work, the primary ignition circuit when the ignition is on MUST have 12 volts present from the ignition switches IGN output,,,,, ,then 6 volts (after the external ballast) present on the Wico"s power input stud/post,,,,, ,,,then somewherre around 4 to 4.5 volts (if coils primary is good and points good and closed) after going through the internal ballast,,,,, ,then about 4 volts on the points when they are OPEN (if not the coils primary may be bad/open/burned up),,,,, ,,,,then ZERO volts on the points when closed.

The points have to be gapped proper,,,,, ,open and close,,,,, and free of carbon or pits for her to ever fire. If you place a test lamp or voltmeter on the points and crank the engine over, the light MUST FLASH ON AND OFF for her to ever fire. It must be ON when points are open, otherwise the coils low voltage primary (low ohms maybe less than 1 to 1.5 ohm range) may be bad/open or the condensors bad/shorted. It must be OFF when the points close, otherwise they are burned or carboned or not closing proper or not well grounded.

Turn the ignition ON and place the test lamp or meter on the points, and when open it should read near battery voltage or else the coils primary is bad/open or one of the ballasts (internal or external) is bad/open or a wire/circuit is missing. Again, there should be bo lamp glow or voltage when they are closed.

You can sort of test the coil with an ohm meter if all is disconnected, its low voltage primary (after internal ballast and to points) should be somewhere less than 1 to 1.5 ohms or so and it high voltage secondary (ground to output button/terminal to rotor) should be a few thousand ohms.

To test the coils high voltage independant of any cap or rotor problem, a plug wire from the coils high voltage output to within 1/8 inch from frame ground should spark each time the points open after being closed with ignition on, assuming good internal and external ballasts and good working points and no shorted condensors. If it fires there but not out the cap tpwers, its a cap or rotor problem.

The first things to check are for voltage present (6 when points closed assuming the coil n ballst are good) on the input stud/terminal and then for the voltage to be ON and OFF on the points as they open n close.

PS you say you have 12 volts to the wires that run into the coil and thats what it should be if the points are open, but it should only be around 4 to 4.5 if they are closed assuming BOTH ballasts are good and in place and the coils primary has continuity and the points are good and well grounded. You have to also get voltage to the open points via the coils good primary and that voltage to drop to zero when the ponts close to get her to fire.

Its late Im headed to bed, I will check back tomorrow. MAKE SURE THE POINTS ARE GOOD, GAPPED PROPER, AND NOT BURNED OR CARBONED UP!!!!! !! Thats a common cause of no fire.

God Bless, John T

The coil was bad. I removed it and wired in a universal coil and it throws a nice spark now.

Again, I appreciate your help on this.