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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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broken bolts

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Jericho

01-14-2005 15:12:06




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On my "48A, 2 of the bolts in the rear-end are broken off below the surface. Grandad and me tried last summer to drill them and use an easy out, and (duh!!!) ended up breaking an easy out inside of there. So, now I still have 2 broken bolts that are below the surface, so I can"t weld a nut on. And the one has an easy out in the middle of it.

There are 8 (?) more bolts in the rear end. Will these remaining bolts provide adequate strength, or do I need to get the other 2 replaced? They are the ones near the top, so they are a bear to get at. Am I likely to break something and cause rear end damage by operating it without all of the bolts? Any ideas on how to remove these 2 broken ones?

Thanks.

JP

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Joe S

01-15-2005 08:58:11




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
Clooney's directions with the torch works very well on the broken easy out broken off in the hole. Had that problem on a 5.0 Chev aluminum intake manifold. Heated the bolt area until red and hit the O2 and blows out the high carbon easy out(may take a couple of hits). Continue to drill out till only threads left and now and only now use another easy out to remove the threads and chase the threads with a bolt that has a high number head stamp. Works on Aluminum so cast is no problem. Been there and done that!

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KB

01-14-2005 17:33:42




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
If you are not comfortable taking out the ez-out with the torch method below you might try using a Dremel tool with a diamond bit in it and cut it out. Dad has done this many times where we do not want to use heat or is too small to remove broken taps.



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Mark Scholten

01-14-2005 17:14:41




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
Jerico: Being a fellow Michigander, I will hopefully help. Do you have a welder and can you weld? This is dependent on what size bolt your working with. Below surface, 1/2" bolts, I use a small piece of pipe. This takes a steady hand so lay off the coffee and the barley hops. Place the piece of pipe in the hole to the bottom, now stick your welding rod in the pipe and weld the pipe to the broken bolt. Let it cool to the touch, put channel locks or vise grips on it and try to screw it out. If it breaks off, do it again. Email me if you don't understand what I mean here.
Where are you again?
Mark, Sparta

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Jericho

01-14-2005 19:41:07




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Mark Scholten, 01-14-2005 17:14:41  
Hi Mark,
I am down by Holland, but my A is in Portland at a friend's farm. Sorry I never made it up there to your place with the "cold one" to trade for the loader mount. I got a promotion at work, and have been spening about 60 hours a week here. Haven't had much time for anything else.

About my problem, I am a terrible welder, but have an uncle who welds real good. Maybe I can trade him a few cold ones for a few hours of his time:)

Thanks.

JP

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Mike M

01-14-2005 16:28:05




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
You could always drain the oil and then block it up and take out the rest of the bolts roll it apart so you can get in there and work.



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buickanddeere

01-15-2005 09:19:04




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Mike M, 01-14-2005 16:28:05  
I was thinking that too. Likely there was some seepage and someone took a cheater bar, no torque wrench and torqued the bolts "real good". The rest are likely stretched and have deformed threads.



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Clooney

01-14-2005 15:45:12




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
Jericho, I would suggest you at least drill out the broken bolt that doesn’t have the easy out in it.. Depending on the severity of the tractors expected usage you could probably live with one broken bolt but probably not two broken bolts.

If you use a series of smaller to larger drill bits you should be able to keep the drill bit near bolt center & drill it out to the inside thread diameter.. Then SLOWLY & CAREFULLY chase those remaining threads out with a tap..

Seeing as you are asking here it sounds like you haven’t removed many broken bolts.. & those broken below the surface can be a real challenge..

I have removed many bolts like that in my life & what I have found works just great & even fairly fast is to drill the broken bolt with a series or standard drill bits then as I get close to bolt diameter switch to a Left hand drill bit & see if the bit will catch a thread & spin the broken bolt out..

If the drilling doesn’t do it then I use an acetylene torch with a WELDING TIP (not a cutting tip) & heat the bolt center red hot,, then when it’s glowing red I turn the acetylene off & turn the oxygen up & use the flowing oxygen to bubble the red hot slag out.. If doing this on a casting the cold casting will hold it’s threads & allow the bolt to melt right out.. One the side with the broken easy out I would use the torch again but just not drill first.. That hard easy out will melt with a torch flame & blow out with the oxygen easer than a soft bolt.. The torch method is not an easy thing to do for a person not familiar with using a torch or cutting metal so if you aren’t well versed with a torch you might want to find someone that is..

Now on those easy outs.. Those things should be outlawed.. I don’t know why people think that a large diameter rusted tight bolt that twisted off with a large wrench will just come right out with a skinny twisted piece of hard steel that expands the bolt even tighter when twisted in.. Those things only work on a bolt that you could screw out anyhow but just can’t reach.. They at least should properly re-name them to “Broken-Offs”…

Clooney

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Clooney

01-14-2005 15:42:52




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 Re: broken bolts in reply to Jericho, 01-14-2005 15:12:06  
Jericho, I would suggest you at least drill out the broken bolt that doesn’t have the easy out in it.. Depending on the severity of the tractors expected usage you could probably live with one broken bolt but probably not two broken bolts.

If you use a series of smaller to larger drill bits you should be able to keep the drill bit near bolt center & drill it out to the inside thread diameter.. Then SLOWLY & CAREFULLY chase those remaining threads out with a tap..

Seeing as you are asking here it sounds like you haven’t removed many broken bolts.. & those broken below the surface can be a real challenge..

I have removed many bolts like that in my life & what I have found works just great & even fairly fast is to drill the broken bolt with a series or standard drill bits then as I get close to bolt diameter switch to a Left hand drill bit & see if the bit will catch a thread & spin the broken bolt out..

If the drilling doesn’t do it then I use an acetylene torch with a WELDING TIP (not a cutting tip) & heat the bolt center red hot,, then when it’s glowing red & turn the acetylene off & turn the oxygen up & use the flowing oxygen to bubble the red hot slag out.. If doing this on a casting the cold casting will hold it’s threads & allow the bolt to melt right out.. One the side with the broken easy out I would use the torch again but just not drill first.. That hard easy out will melt with a torch flame & blow out with the oxygen easer than a soft bolt.. The torch method is not an easy thing to do for a person not familiar with using a torch or cutting metal so if you aren’t well versed with a torch you might want to find someone that is..

Now on those easy outs.. Those things should be outlawed.. I don’t know why people think that a large diameter rusted tight bolt that twisted off with a large wrench will just come right out with a skinny twisted piece of hard steel that expands the bolt even tighter when twisted in.. Those things only work on a bolt that you could screw out anyhow but just can’t reach.. They at least should properly re-name them to “Broken-Offs”…

Clooney

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