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Drexel, when you say you have fire everywhere EXCEPT on the plug wires, can you explain that a bit further?? If you remove the coil wire from the distributor (leaving coil end intact) and place its bare end to within 1/8 inch or so from tractor steel n turn her on n crank her over, does she spark from the coil wires end to the frame????? ??
(A) TIMING ISSUES
If the coil wire is firing per the above, the coil n points n condensor are okay, maybe youre just not getting the fire to the correct plug/wire at the correct time (like wrong distributor cap or mounting or distributors out of time??) If the coil wire end fires BUT NOT THE PLUGS OR PLUG WIRES (regardless if at right time) the coil n points n condensor are okay BUT you have a cap or distributor or plug or plug wire problem. If the plug wires fire BUT NOT the plugs if attached and sides grounded, THE PLUG IS BAD. ORRRRR RR maybe the plugs n plug wires are all firing, BUT AT THE WRONG TIME OR TO THE WRONG CYLINDER caused by an incorrect cap or mounting or else the distributors out of time or you have the plug wires reversed????? ????? ???? (B) SHES TIMED RIGHT IFFFFF FFFFF F If the distributors in right n timed right and the correct caps installed, when the number ONE cylinder comes up to TDC on its Compression Power Stroke (can tell by having plug out and feeling when shes coming up on compression) and gets to TDC, the points should be open on the leading cam lobes high cam, and the rotor tip should be lined up with the caps leading terminal which has a plug wire to that number one cylinder !!!!! Then 180 of flywheel (90 of distributor) rotation later, the points should be again on high cam (lagging lobe) and the rotor tip lined up with the other lagging terminal tower wired to the number 2 cylinder. If the coils never firing at all (C) TROUBLESHOOTING FOR NO FIRE AT ALL 1) THE VERY FIRST THING YOU GOTTA HAVE is voltage to be present on the coils high supply (NOT to distributor) terminal when you turn the Ignition switch ON. If not she cant ever fire, but in the event the ign switch or circuit/wire down to the coil or any Ballast Resistor (but a 6 volt tractor dont) is bad or open, you can HOT WIRE it by jumping a hot ungrounded battery voltage source to the coils high input supply (NOT to distributor) side n see if she runs then???? If she fires hot wired, you could have a bad ignition switch (That can happen, when Ignition is on, the switches IGN terminal must turn hot),,,,, ,or an open Ballast (if it had one, but 6 volt tractors dont) or a bad/open wire from the ignition switch to the coils high side input terminal. If the switch is good, if you turn the ignition switch on and place a test lamp on the coils high (NOT to distributor) terminal SHE MUST LIGHT UP. If not again, look for an open Ballast Resistor (if it has one, but 6 volt tractors dont) or bad/open wires from the switches IGN output down to the coil (or ballast if it had one). 2a) When the ign switch is turned on, voltage should appear on the coils high input side. That would be 12 volts on a 12 volt non external ballasted system, or around 6 volts on a 6 volt system. 2b) To insure the coils low voltage primary winding is not bad/open, use an ohmmeter and measure its DC resistance between its lil + and -terminals. If its an open circuit (no continuity) its bad/open and will NOT work. It should measure around 1.25 to 2 ohms or so if its a 6 volt coil and maybe 2.5 to 3.5 if its a 12 volt internally ballasted coil. NOTE CAUTION have all leads and any voltage source attached to the coil for this simple primary winding continuity test. 3) Next, place your voltmeter or test lamp over on the coils other low to distributor terminal side, turn her on and crank the engine over. 4) A test lamp there should flash ON (when points are open) and OFF (when points are closed) 5a) If the lamp never comes on there, the coils primary is bad/open,,,,, ,,,,or the points are never opening,,,,, ,,,or theres a shorted/bad condensor (remove its lead to points and see if lamp comes on, if so, bad shorted condensor or its wiring),,,,, ,,or the points wire is shorted,,,,, ,,or the distributirs side pass thru stud is grounded (use ohm meter to test that),,,,, ,,,or the points may have a shorted spring. 5b) If the lamp never goes off as engines cranked, the points are not closing,,,,, ,,or the wire or circuit is missing from the distributor to the points,,,,,or the distributors not well grounded to the tractor. She cant fire the coil unless its low side is getting a conductive ground return path via closed points and then the circuit is open when the points open. Be sure the condensor or its wiring is NOT shorted out and see if the lite comes on (when points open) with the condensor disconnected. If removing the condensor makes her spark, replace the condensor. SUMMARY Be sure the points are closing fully and open on high cam and ARE NOT BURNED OR PITTED OR CARBONED UP BADLY,,,,, ,theres voltage present on distributors high side at all times when ignitions on (or its a bad switch or open ballast or bad wiring to col),,,,, ,voltage on coils low side flashes on and off as distributor is cranked,,,,, ,,,condensors not bad/shorted,,,,, ,,no shorts in wires to points and no shorts in pass thru side out distributor stud,,,,, ,,coil has continuituy. Good Luck n God Bless, post back any questions and your findings and any questions. John T in Indiana
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