3010 shuts off. Can't find reason why. Any Ideas?

I am a heavy equipment mechanic and I know some troubleshooting, but I have no experience with a roosamaster pump.

I cracked the fuel line coming into the injection pump and stroked the lift pump by hand till all air was gone. I cracked all the injector lines and cranked till I got fuel, tightened them and it took off.

It sounded good for a minute, then shut off like you turned the key. I re-bled everywhere, started back up, then shut off. Over and over this went on. I finally tried to restart without bleeding, cause I wasn't getting air and it will start right back up after it sets for a minute. It doesn't die like it has air in it. I cracked one injector while it was running and the fuel sprays normally and then stops like the fuel stop was being pulled.

I've checked the fuel to the lift pump, good, the fuel out of the lift pump by hand and by running the engine. This also seems good. I tried cracking the return fuel to relieve possible pressure buildup, made no difference. There is no fuel leaking or air sucking that I can tell. It just wont keep running and the more I restart it the shorter time is runs.

What have I missed? Could it be a mechanical problem inside the injection pump? Should I test the pressure out of the lift pump with a guage? What should the lift pump pressure be?

All help / input will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Joe

I wrestled the breather tube out of the way enough to take the return fuel line and fitting out of the injection pump and started it up. It ran good but small chunks of junk were flowing out of the hole in the pump as it ran. When I re-attached the return fuel line it shut off. I pulled off the return line completely and found it to be plugged at the banjo on the rear injector. A good cleaning and problem solved, at least for now. I expect it will plug again shortly.

So often, the original poster NEVER posts back as to whether or not the problem was solved, and the ones of us who reply wonder if we were correct, or not! Thanks again for posting back!

I made a deal with the owner. Instead of me walking away from this tractor yesterday, leaving him with a non-running unwanted tractor, he told me to take it home with me and tinker with it until I zeroed in on the trouble. I told him I dont need another tractor that will require high dollar repairs. He said if the trouble is major, I don't own the tractor. I have the tractor here at my house, but I haven't paid for it yet.

The price is $2000. The tractor has a mangled loader and car tires on the wide front. 50%tires on rear. Missing tin around dash. Tranny wont go into low gear all the way.

If I can get the engine ironed out cheap, I can fix the shift linkage, straighten the loader and put on some tractor tires and come out ok, right?

What do you think?

I'm going out to check out the problem. Back on line tonight. Thanks, Joe

Then, unscrew the whole fitting out of the pump cover. Likely, you'll find the fitting clogged with chunks of black stuff that are the remnants of the pump governor's torsional dampner ring.

Be safe, engine cold, fire extinguisher at hand, just in case. With the fitting still out, start the engine with a catch bucket beneath to catch the dribble of return fuel. If the debris in ths fitting was causing the problem, the engine should continue to run. (The Roosa pumps will shut down if operated against a clogged return system.) (If the fitting is clear, there could be a pinched line or other restriction in the return system between there and the tank.)

If there is debris in the fitting, you can clean it out (carefull, there's a glass ball in the fitting), and reinstall the fitting and line. It should continue to run until such time as more stuff gets in the fitting and chokes it off again.

If this is what's happening, a complete gasket and seal kit for the pump is less than $30.00, but a trip through a diesel shop will likely cost $300.00 to $800.00. If you have a guy around your area that's familiar with those pumps, and there's nothing else wrong with it, it only takes an hour or two with some basic tools to put the kit in, and the calibration will not be affected if he knows what he's doing.

Whaever you do, don't operate it too long with the ring bad, because when the torsional ring is all gone (broke up in pieces), metal parts in the governor that are supposed to be spaced by that ring go metal on metal and start to wear, and filings are released into the guts of the pump.