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Jim, the answer to your problems depends heavily on how accurate and what you mean by "If you depress the starter button it runs okay" and thats AFTER WHILE STILL WARM it wont continue to run via normal ignition switch output and series ballast resistor. Those stopping once warmed up problems in a ballasted system are often a bad ballast,, or a weak or bad coil,, or a weak condensor,, or even possibly burned/corroded points, but the tips below may isolate which it is. TO BE SAFE FIRST, inspect the points for burned or carboned or pitted or heavy gray oxide coatings, as that could be a simple problem and cheap simple fix. Its possible if they are bad, they may develop too much resistance once warm. If after warmed up she will run fine and the plugs go ahead and fire when the start is depressed BUT STOPS IF ITS NOT, I first suspect a bad ignition ballast resistor,,,,, , OR a faulty ignition switch,,,,, ,,,,, OR a "weak" but still somewhat functioning warm coil. Thats cuz if it has a working ballast by pass startign circuit, the coil receives FULL unballasted battery power direct from the hot starter post when shes cranking, NOT around 6 volts via the ignition switch and ballast as when running. ****************TROUBLESHOOTING***************** 1) Immediately after she dies, remove the coil wire from the distributor (leave coil end inside coil) and place the exposed coil wire end to within 1/8 from the tractors frame. Crank the engine and see if a good visible blue spark jumps when shes cranked over????? ????? ? If the ballast by pass circuit is working, it will fire then (while cranking) EITHER with the ignition switch on or off, since its the by pass circuit, NOT ign switch and series ballast, powering up the coil. 2) If she fires good when cranking when all is warmed up, the points and condensor and "maybe" the coil are probably okay (I have to say probably, cuz when cranking she gets more voltage). BUT, if you replace the coil wire and try n start her normally while shes still warmed up and she starts (while starters still engaged),,,, but then dies once youre off the starter, its likely a bad ignition switch or a bad ballast resistor or possibly a "weak" coil. Burned or corroded points or a weak condensor could still possibly be somewhat of a problem, however. 3) NOW LETS SEE IF WE CAN SYSTEMATICALLY ELIMINATE IF ITS A BAD BALLAST, OR SWITCH, OR COIL, OR CONDENSOR????? ? a)BALLAST: If shes warmed up and dies, by pass the ballast by running a jumper wire around it or feeding the coil direct from the ignition switches IGN output, and see if she will run good continuous then. IF SO, I first suspect the ballast is going bad once warmed up OR possibly but less likely the coil could still be "weak" and going bad when warm, such that it fires if it has full battery voltage but not the lesser ballasted voltage. b) IGNITION SWITCH: Once shes warmed up but if she dies, run a hot 12 v feed wire directly to the high (NOT to coil) side of the ballast and see if she will start n run long and continuous hot wired. IF SO, I suspect the ign switch is bad and develops resistance once warmed up. They can indeed develop problems. c) WEAK COIL Its possible the coil is weak and once warmed up might still possibly fire if 12 volts is applied, but not if only the noraml running ballasted 6 volts. If she quits when warm via the normal ign switch and ballast, but will run if hot wired direct with 12 volts to its high input (NOT to distributor) terminal ANDDDDD D its NOT a bad ballast or a bad switch per the tests above,,,,, ,, it may be weak and breakign down once warmed up. TOTAL BAD COIL, If the coil works when cool but not at all (even if hot wired or starter is cranking) once warm, its BADDDDD . D) WEAK CONDENSOR, Its possible the condensor may be weak once warmed up. Once warm, if it will fire the coil if the condensor is totally removed or unwired, BUT NOT if its inserted, it sounds bad. SUMMARY, FIRST CHECK THE POINS FOR BURNS OR CARBON OR PITITGN OR GRAY OXIDE COATING,,,,, , Then by pass the BALLAST or jump around it to see if she runs long and continuous ,,,,, ,,,,, Then by pass the IGNITION SWITCH by hot wiring to the ballast high input (NOT to coil) side and see if she runs long and continuois,,,,, , Then if the ballast and switch are good, but she fails once warmed up, it could be a weak coil or a weak condensor. If she then fires with the condensor out of the circuit but not if in, I suspect its bad. Check them points and ballast first, if they are okay suspect the ign switch, then suspect a bad coil or condensor, as they are known to go bad once warmed up. Pos back or e mail jmn50@msn.com any questions and what the tests above show and I will try my best to help you isolate and eliminate the problem you described. Good Luck n God Bless ya Jim, John T Nordhoff
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