Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Loosen rear wheels?

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Jerry Reining

10-03-2005 19:19:47




Report to Moderator

How does one loosen the rear wheels on a JD B both the cast and pressed metal? Removed the three bolts but can't seem to break loose the center hub. Looks as if it requires a puller. Any tricks for someone that has never done this?




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
DickD

10-04-2005 09:27:42




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to Jerry Reining, 10-03-2005 19:19:47  
Jerry; This may seem a little unorthadox to you, but we always loosened the collars slightly and went to the field. We watched the axles intently until the wheels started to move. We then went to the shop and set the wheels in or out with very little problem. Worked for us.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
willie j

10-04-2005 05:29:23




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to Jerry Reining, 10-03-2005 19:19:47  
Unless things have changed since i left the farm, there is an easy way to loosen the clamp. There should be 5 holes in the clamp, 3 in a triangle pattern with bolts in them, & 2 empty holes straight across from each other. The 3 are smooth in the clamp& threaded in the hub to pull the clamp in tight. The other 2 are threaded in the clamp & butt up against the hub. Take out all 3 bolts, place 2 in the other holes & snug them up, couple turns at a time to push the clamp off. Lay the clamp on the ground, then use your favorite "loose-juice" , wire brush, etc to clean up the axle so the hub can slide.
HTH
Willie

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Walt in Jaxn Tn.

10-04-2005 10:23:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to willie j, 10-04-2005 05:29:23  
Things have changed since you left the farm Willie, the method you describe is the text book method and should always be tried first, but, that method was for an ideal situation, clean threads every where no rust between the hub and collar, I tried that method 15 years ago on a cast center hub, broke the bolt off in the hub, mushroomed the other bolt head (thread end). If I'd tapped the threads (chased) in the collar and used a die on the bolt first the method probably would have worked. We don't all of us have taps and dies that size laying around. A friend of mine and I got the collar off using a torch to heat the collar. I found another collar and bolts in a salvage yard. The hubs on these old 60 year old "A"s and "B"s got crusty a long time ago in my part of the country. --Walt--

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
1944bhandcrank

10-03-2005 21:22:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to Jerry Reining, 10-03-2005 19:19:47  
third party image

This is the best way I found.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Pete/ME

10-05-2005 02:44:57




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to 1944bhandcrank, 10-03-2005 21:22:51  
Why are the wheels on the inside of the hub? (Great pic.)



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Walt in Jaxn Tn.

10-03-2005 20:46:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Loosen rear wheels? in reply to Jerry Reining, 10-03-2005 19:19:47  
What kind of wheels do you have? I recently removed the pressed steel wheels and hubs from my 1946 "A". Soak all parts that make contact with other parts, collar, bolts threads, hubs splines and axel splines where the splines meet. Loosen the three bolts that hold the collar on about 4 to 5 turns. Get a big hammer, sledge hammer will do. Place one side of the hammer head on the head of one of the bolts. Strike the other side of the hammer head with another big hammer a couple of blows. Move to one of the other bolt heads and do it again and on to the third bolt head till the collar comes loose. Next, get a stainless steel scouring pad (got two from the "Dollar General" for a dollar) and clean the axel splines grooves out to the end of the axel from the hub to make sure the path is clean. Use a small screwdriver to force the scouring pad in the grooves. I used a small paint brush with kerosene to clear away the rust dust made by the scouring pad. I had some dings on the axel that would jam the hub so I dressed them with a flat file. I have a pressed steel hub so from here on all I had to do was work with a hub that weighed about 50 lb. I would slide it in and out on the shaft and paint the shaft with kerosene till it slid off the axel. My arms were sore for a while from working that hub in and out. I got the hubs and rims sand blasted and painted and cleaned the axels some more and dried them and cut the middle out of a styrofoam plate a little smaller than the axel so that it was a light press fit to slide it on the axel to the axel housing so that I would not paint the green parts when I painted the axel. I then painted the axel with a couple of light coats of black lacquer. I think the lacquer is thinner than enamel and I did not want to build up to much paint between the axel and the hub. Hope this helps. --Walt--

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy