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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Clutch Adjust 1951 John Deere G: 2 opinions...

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Jim in Florida

10-09-2005 07:40:29




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I received two seemingly contradictory opinions regarding the relationship of the flywheel endplay to the clutch adjustment procedure: Opinion #1: The flywheel is completely independent of the clutch. Therefore, endplay is first set at the 0.0005-0.010 specification without binding. Then the clutch is adjusted. This procedure prevents any potential bearing damage from crankshaft lateral thrust. Opinion #2: The flywheel endplay specification should be considerably exceeded, and then the clutch is adjusted. This results in considerable crankshaft movement which is usually apparent each time the clutch is engaged/ disengaged. My question: Which is the technically correct clutch adjustment procedure? Thanks

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Jim in Florida

10-09-2005 10:03:01




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 Re: Clutch... JD-G: Thanks! -One more- re: crank in reply to Jim in Florida, 10-09-2005 07:40:29  
Thank you -A follow up question: When tight, the drive disc outer edge extends no more than 1mm past the edge of the crankshaft. Is this too tight? If so, what should the space be, and how do I solve the problem? Could this position contribute to poor clutch operation? (This tractor will be used for pulling)



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Mike M

10-09-2005 18:55:44




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 Re: Clutch... JD-G: Thanks! -One more- re: crank in reply to Jim in Florida, 10-09-2005 10:03:01  
Like Frank said that 1mm that way is better than the other way. But 1mm isn't very much some tractor models have more room back in behind than others. I'm not very familar with the G's so I would test this space. With the engine shut off ,pulley brake adjuster backed off, you may need to loosen up the adjusting nuts or take the outer plate off all together. Leave the back facing in and the driver on tight grab the pulley by hand and pull it in and out on the crank you should see it move in and out spin it at the same time to check for binding on something either back too far like bolts ? and you should be able to feel it catch the facing when pulling out. I don't know what would be ideal ? but I would think that if you are getting no more than the width of those facings you may have troubles.

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F-I-T

10-09-2005 11:07:15




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 Re: Clutch... JD-G: Thanks! -One more- re: crank in reply to Jim in Florida, 10-09-2005 10:03:01  
No, Jim, I'd say that's about ideal. It shows that there is adequate interference between the crank and driver spines, in that it cannot go on any further.

It's when the driver is riding onto the crank so far the crankshaft sits proud that you can begin to have problems. At that point you have to rig a shouldered washer that will continue to push the driver deep into the splines of the crank.

Frank

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Mike M

10-09-2005 19:16:49




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 Re: Clutch... JD-G: Thanks! -One more- re: crank in reply to F-I-T, 10-09-2005 11:07:15  
I have seen people use stacks of washers to do what you discribed. Making a shouldered one sounds alot better as those stacks of washers fall out of place. These were mainly on early A's and B's with some success. On the later A's ,60,620,630,and a model 50 I have ran into some really tight interferance problems on that back facing if the driver sometimes even goes on flush. I think the model 60's have been the worst. Every model can be made a little different though. On those tight ones I've had to even turn some off the back side of the driver to make it thinner. A couple of really bad ones that wasn't cost effective to fix right by having the splines remachined I was able to fashion a 1 pc. shim out of a tin can to fit the splines. I don't know if those G's have enough room back in there or not for the driver to go back on farther. Have you seen those washers used on G's with success ?

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F-I-T

10-09-2005 20:44:05




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 Re: Clutch... JD-G: Thanks! -One more- re: crank in reply to Mike M, 10-09-2005 19:16:49  
The only one I worked on that had that problem just made it, though I was prepared to face .050" or so from the back side of the driver.



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F-I-T

10-09-2005 08:12:03




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 Re: Clutch Adjust 1951 John Deere G: 2 opinions.. in reply to Jim in Florida, 10-09-2005 07:40:29  
Jim:

The clutch pack has nothing to do with crankshaft endplay. Check it out yourself. Check endplay clutch engaged, disengage clutch and check endplay. Should be the same.

It's even the same with the clutch removed.

.005-010", set it hot.

Frank



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Mike M

10-09-2005 07:57:01




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 Re: Clutch Adjust 1951 John Deere G: 2 opinions.. in reply to Jim in Florida, 10-09-2005 07:40:29  
Should be no confusion. Set the crankshaft endplay to .005-.010 this is where it's to be.The book also says something about adjusting the clutch so that 70 - 80 lbs pull is required to engage and disengage it. I don't think many people like them this tight for the day in day out use.But they should be that tight if your going to pull them hard or work them. I was always taught to follow the specs. in the book you won't go wrong.

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