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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the question

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41JDb

02-18-2006 16:45:32




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I have a 41 B that Im restoring. My crank spines are all chewed up and I need to either weld new splines myself or pull it out and have a machine shop do it professionally. If I decide to have a machine shop do it I might as well go through the whole engine while I have it apart? If it runs good do I need to check the pistons, rings, and such.Would a compression test tell me if I should rebuild it or not? I have never rebuilt a JD motor before and dont want to get in over my head. Anyone wanna help, Im in MI lol?

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Deere-Tom

02-19-2006 15:49:43




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
Just so you now the driver is a taper fit onto the crank. And the big nut and washer on the end is to tighten the driver onto the crank. This is what came loose and caused the problem. e-mail me if you need help Tom.



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Deere-tom

02-19-2006 10:19:15




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
I will try one more time. what is this tractor going to do work,show,pull? I think JD B puller is right. to remove the crank is not simple job if you have not worked on two cylinders some I would get some help.As for rebuliding the motor the same things hold true work,show,pull,or you want to. If you remove and reinstall the crank and rebuild the motor you can say been there done that. Tom.



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41JDb

02-19-2006 14:46:25




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to Deere-tom, 02-19-2006 10:19:15  
Most likely just show and some light work. When you asked if i checked out the replacement driver it got me wondering so I went out to the shop and slid it on. Major improvement (old one could be rotated almost 15 degrees!), but It still needs a little help on the crank side. I think I am just going to weld on top of the spines and grind them back down myself. My dad has been doing this on our machines at our golf course for years. He should be able to handle it. As for the engine I am going to wait on it til I try to run it since I have had the carb rebuilt. If not a signaifacant improvement to what it was I will rebuild. Thanks for all the great advice. AL

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Deere-tom

02-19-2006 09:40:11




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
You told me that you have a like new driver. Have you installed it to see if the splines stick though the driver? And what is the part# of driver



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41JDb

02-19-2006 09:43:54




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to Deere-tom, 02-19-2006 09:40:11  
No I havent tried it but the driver casting is B1849R and the jd part # is AB2758R. The crank is worse than the picture I would say. Thanks AL



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41JDb

02-19-2006 09:10:36




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 Will a 39 Crank fit my 41 in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
DickD offered me a crank off a 39B, will it fit? I dont think so because my parts manual shows a crank from 39 to 40 years(60,000-96,000) and one for 41 to Mid 47 years(96,000-201,000). What cha think?



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zwr

02-19-2006 15:04:49




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 Re: Will a 39 Crank fit my 41 in reply to 41JDb, 02-19-2006 09:10:36  
Caution!



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DickD

02-19-2006 07:47:35




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
41JDB; I have a crank out of a 39 B that I had repaired at a machine shop. Later I found a NOS for $65, and installed it. If it is the same, you can have it. I live in central Indiana. Email me if you can use it.



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Deere-Tom

02-19-2006 07:47:22




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
Its hard to tell from a photo but I have seen splines that looked that bad and as long as the driver will tighten up they will work just fine. P.S. where in Mi.are you? I'am near Mason.



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41JDb

02-19-2006 07:27:59




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
Sorry that picture came out so big! Well how much did that machine shop charge you for that g? Also How hard and whats the rocedure for pulling it out? Do you have to remove the flywheel and the gear housing on the clutch side? Thanks for all the respones and keep them coming!!



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jd b puller

02-19-2006 08:18:10




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-19-2006 07:27:59  
You asked about pulling the crank out... Yee haw.
-
I'm sure i missed something in here, and i'm sure someone has better ways to do it, but here ya go.
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1. It's easier if you take both rear wheels off. It can be done with the wheels on, just easier to get in there with wheels off.
2. Drain all the oil, your in this deep, drain the rearend.
3. Seat floorpan needs to come off (to get to the brake)
4. Remove RH brake
5. Remove the Belt pulley and all related stuff
6. Remove the side cover (RH) - Don't forget about the little cover where the input shaft goes. I had to use a "pusher" to get the bearings off the shaft. Piece of plate with 2 holes in it that would push the shaft thru the bearing.
7. Order new bearing from JD Dealer
8. Order crankshaft gasket rebuild kit from JD Dealer.
9. Remove the crankcase cover on top of the crankcase.
10. Remove the con rods. They should have cotter pins in the nuts. Don't lose the shims and keep them where they come out. Now push the pistons all the way to the front of the bore.
11. Remove the Flywheel - can be loads of fun, may need to be "pulled"
12. Remove the lube lines from both sets of mains. Make sure to "double wrench" or you'll twist the tubes and wreck them.
13. Now, remove the "mantle clock" oil slinger from the flywheel side and all the goodies. Make sure you keep track of how everything goes.
14. Loosen all 4 of the large bolts that hold both mains in place and the 2 bolts on each end that clamp the bearings down. Don't remove, just loosen. 15. Although it probably isn't as critical as I make it out to be, I usually get someone to hold one end of the crank while I pull the actual main housing off. Then, supporting the crank at both ends, pull the pulley side off.
16. Now it's just a matter of fishing it out of the hole on the FLYWHEEL side.
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It's about the most PIA on the engine you can ask for. If you haven't done it before, consider contacting one of the guys near you that has experience and paying them to help you take it out. You could spend hours doing things that don't work if you don't...

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Miller49G

02-19-2006 04:44:19




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
I had my 49" G crank redone and when it was done it was as good as new. The guy that did it for me was Mike Williams in Clinton, Ia. To get in touch with Mike Williams call 1-563-243-3023. If you want to look at my web page go to Crank rebuild tab to see the crank he did for me it was wore about .060 on the clutch driver side it was pretty bad.

Miller49G

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F-I-T

02-19-2006 05:32:11




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to Miller49G, 02-19-2006 04:44:19  
What was the cost?



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Miller49G

02-19-2006 13:31:05




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to F-I-T, 02-19-2006 05:32:11  
The cost was $300.00 to fix the splines on the clutch driver side. And the tractor it will be used for tractor pulling and some work also.

Miller49G



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F-I-T

02-19-2006 13:42:01




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to Miller49G, 02-19-2006 13:31:05  
Did he give you a price of what a repair on the flywheel side would run? Just trying to get an idea of the cost of repairing one with a poor crank on both sides.

Frank



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Miller49G

02-20-2006 04:57:22




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to F-I-T, 02-19-2006 13:42:01  
The price for the flywheel side was about the same or a little less. He does a great job on the cranks and it is alot less than a taperlock that they make for the flywheel side. I was very happy with the job he did for me also.

Miller49G



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BushogPapa

02-18-2006 21:10:01




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
Do they make a Taper-Lok flywheel for your "B"..???

Would be a lot easier than tearing a good engine apart..

Ron..



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F-I-T

02-19-2006 03:58:17




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to BushogPapa, 02-18-2006 21:10:01  
I think he's showing the clutch side, BP. No Taper-lock clutch drivers available.

Frank



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BushogPapa

02-19-2006 13:05:30




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to F-I-T, 02-19-2006 03:58:17  
I see that it is now..!! The hole in the shaft had me wondering..!! And I wondered why that side of the splines were worn.. Guess I didn't spend enough time looking at the photo..!!

Ron.



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F-I-T...parts ordered

02-19-2006 13:43:14




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to BushogPapa, 02-19-2006 13:05:30  
Hey man..."it" happens!

:)



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Alan Forst

02-18-2006 18:07:31




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to 41JDb, 02-18-2006 16:45:32  
First of all,find out what a machine shop will get to rebuild the splines. You may find it cheaper to relace the crank with a good used one. Good cranks for a B of this vintage are still easy to find. As for the motor itself, there is no reason to disassemble it to replace the crank. Simply unbolt the rods and push them all the way up to get removal clearance for the crank. Make sure you have a good shop manual,it's money well spent.

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mbptractor

02-18-2006 19:33:19




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 Re: To Rebuild or Not To Rebuild, That is the ques in reply to Alan Forst, 02-18-2006 18:07:31  
where in michigan are you? These crankshaft are not hard to come by and are not to bad to put in like Allen said push the rods and pistons forword and go by the manual and you will have the crankshaft out in no time at all.if you have any questions email me. Brian i'm in standish mich



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