2010D voltage regulator

Hello. I've read the articles here on regulators and generators. They were great, but I'm asking for a little more help in troubleshooting. It's a 12 volt positive ground system.

I just got my generator rebuilt (probably wasn't the problem but it was pretty worn anyway) and my tractor still isn't charging. I did polarize the generator.

I've hooked up the wires on the gen the "natural" way they connected. Brown wire to armature and black to field. Can't see them fitting the other way.

Next I opened the regulator cover. I only see 2 relays. I was expecting 3. The Brown wire from the armature connects to the post on top of the regulator which also leads to the "GEN" light. The points don't look too bad.

Does anyone know where to find a wiring diagram for this?

Many thanks.

I appreciate your responses. I haven't have time to work on the problem this weekend, but here is some more info:

Did the motor test on the rebuilt generator. Spun well.

The battery may be suspect, as it was used and looked to leak at some point months ago. However, it holds a good 12.5 volts and turns the tractor over and runs the lights fine. I stick a battery charger on it now and then when needed and it takes the charge. Think it may be the problem?

With everything hooked up and engine running, the ARM post on the GEN shows about 0.5 volts on the meter. If I dead ground the field, this drops to 0 volts!! Is this a clue?

If the regulator gets its ground through the mount, I need to be sure to ground it during the test procedure.

I'll keep you updated. Need to digest the testing procedure. May need a new battery! Thanks!

John

I also have a 2010D (Row Crop) with the identical problem since I bought it last Oct. Have also checked out the Gen and found no problem, but have not gotten into the regulator because of the winter weather and no place to work inside. Replaced the battery with correct one so it would start for snow plowing. I have some info from parts manual (on CD) plus some related wiring diagram info that may be of assistance. Email me if you want copy of what I have.

Bob in NH

Im unsure of wire colors, are there any markings on the VR that resemble BAT ARM and FLD ???? On many gennys, the ARM post is the larger of the 2 while the Field post is the smaller if thats any help.

I will cut n paste parts of my Standard Troubleshooting Guide below, although you may not need anywhere near all of this. Check easy simple things first like a good genny and VR ground and a tight belt and for bad connections. Then run the VR versus Genny tests below and the genny Motor Test. Make sure the VR's BAT terminal always has hot battery voltage, cuz thats where n how the gennys output gets to the battery to charge it.

If it turns out the VR is simply wired wrong, post back n maybe I can help you figure out its terminals, but I will be at GOG most all of next week.

TROUBLESHOOTING CHARGING SYSTEMS

ARE YOU SURE THE AMMETER IS WIRED CORRECT AND WORKS????? If you turn the lights or ignition on (if coil ignition not a mag) when she’s not running, the ammeter should swing over to the - discharge direction, does yours??? Are BOTH the ammeter terminals reading hot battery voltage?? They MUST !!!!! ! There’s but one wire on the ammeters Supply (from battery/starter) terminal while its other Load terminal wires to the BAT terminal on a Cutout relay or VR PLUS wires to feed loads like lights or ignition.

To Polarize the Generator, first temporarily dead ground the Gens Field post to case/frame, then momentarily flash jump a wire from the Cutout Relay or VR's "BAT" terminal over to its GEN (or ARM) terminal and you ought to get a small spark. Same things accomplished by momentarily flash jumping a hot wire (BAT terminal on Cutout Relay or VR or starter post etc) direct to the Gens ARM post to get the spark.

TROUBLESHOOTING A CHARGING PROBLEM IN CLASS A DELCO TYPE SYSTEMS

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post,,,,, ,,,,to and through the Cutout Relay (between its GEN and BAT terminals, regardless if on a VR or Relay),,,,, ,,,up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,to and through the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,,from BAT side of Ammeter to ungrounded battery terminal, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts and/or the lights glow brighter (half that on 6 volt systems). Have you tried that in case the ammeter isn’t working right?????

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR or Cutout Relay MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR (if it has one) wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ingition.

WIRING ON CUTOUT RELAYS: They wire BAT side to ammeters Load terminal,,,,, GEN side to gens Armature post. On cutout relay systems, the Gens Field post is wired to the light switch where it gets a dead ground for high charge or a resistive ground for low charge. Therefore, there must be a good connection from the Gens Field post up to the switch PLUS the switch is good and it’s well grounded !!!!! !!

4. THE GEN AND VR OR CUTOUT RELAY MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and see what happens????? ????? ????? ????? ????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,, ,,BAT terminal on VR or Cutout Relay is HOT,,,,, ,,Belt is tight,,,,, ,,,Ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!! !! If the battery checks okay, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR OR CUTOUT RELAY PROBLEM

5. a) VOLTAGR REGULATOR SYSTEM: With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then but NOT otherwise, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR's Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isn’t well grounded.

b) IF IT’S A CUTOUT RELAY SYSTEM and she charges only if you dead ground the Field but NOT otherwise, its either a bad switch or the switch isn’t well grounded or else the wires bad or open from the Gens Field post up to the switch. INSURE THAT GOOD SWITCH GROUND AND WIRING

6. If she still don’t charge, leave the Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR or Cutout Relays BAT terminal over to its GEN terminal (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, a VR's cutout relay isn’t working correct (maybe points burned/carboned) or a Cutout Relays NOT working or not wired correct.

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR or Cutout relays functions, so if she still don’t charge, you're left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post and have the Field Post dead grounded to frame, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator likely okay). Then, if you next remove the Fields ground and it speeds up some, the Fields probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wiring or battery or grounding problem. The hot battery voltage may be taken off the VR's BAT terminal or the starter post or the battery itself for this test.

Ol John T