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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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420W lift arm seal replacement

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Jennifer Patter

04-11-2006 04:42:56




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We have a 420W SN 129669 (a 1957, I believe). My husband is getting ready to try to replace the rockshaft housing oil seals. Can anybody help out on whether or not ours would have the bushings? Also, do both sides use the same seal or would they be different? Finally, any suggestions on how to get the lift arms off? Thanks a ton!

Jen




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Roger in Michigan

04-11-2006 18:31:44




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jennifer Patterson, 04-11-2006 04:42:56  
Does anyone know how much someone can expect to pay to have the rockshaft and housing taken to the shop and fitted for bushings?

I have 2 430 tractors and both leak from the rockshaft. Neither has the bushings.

Thanks,

Roger



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JD 420W

04-12-2006 07:54:31




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Roger in Michigan, 04-11-2006 18:31:44  
It depends! I did mine, and only had to put in 1 bushing and weld up and turn 1 spot on the shaft. Also I have a neighbor that has a full machine shop that did the work. I paid $125. BUT, at any other machine shop it will probably cost at least double that.



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Jennifer Patterson

04-11-2006 14:29:08




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jennifer Patterson, 04-11-2006 04:42:56  
Thank you both for your help. Unfortunately, he ran into a problem: the hollow rockshaft on the left side came all the way out, and he can"t get it back in because the piston (or something else inside there) keeps dropping down in the way. So, the tractor"s in pieces and our local JD people can"t get out here until Monday. He"s tried to take the big cover piece off, but it might be welded and we don"t want to mess up any gaskets, etc. We know the timing will be messed up. Any ideas on how to get the stupid thing back together? Thanks again.

Jen

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Jd 420w

04-12-2006 06:18:06




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jennifer Patterson, 04-11-2006 14:29:08  
to get it back togeather he will need to split the housing. To do this I believe the whole 3 point control and rockshafts will have to come off the tractor(I believe there are pegs under the rockshaft that won't allow it to separate on the tractor. To do this, disconnect the 2 oil lines, and the center link/draft control linkages. Then there are 4 bolts on the top of the housing that hold it on.

To disconnect the rockshaft housing from the valve housing, there should be 3 bolts on the bottom of the beck of the housing(one is hid behind the center link) and 2 or 3 bolts on the top back of the housing, and 2 bolts on the front side of the rockshaft housing. Then, pull the rockshaft housing away from the valve housing, and there will be 2 rods near the top that are connected, if you rotate the lift arms up, you will find 2 snap rings that will disconnect these rods, then the rockshaft housing is disconnected.

Once it is apart, the shafts can come out and be put back in. The only splines you have to worry about matching up are the ones on the 2 large lift arms(connected to the solid shaft). The hollow shaft lift arm, and the 2 splines for the lift pistons inside the housing have a master spline that you can not mess up.

It goes back togeather in the opposite order.
I think you can take it from there!

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Jennifer Patterson

04-12-2006 06:40:16




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jd 420w, 04-12-2006 06:18:06  
Thanks! We"ll see what happens.



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Wayne in Tn.

04-11-2006 06:06:31




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jennifer Patterson, 04-11-2006 04:42:56  
The four bushings in the housing were not used until the late model 430 tractors.
The only way to remove the lift arms is to remove the bolt in the center and drive them off with your favorite shop hammer or possibly a special puller.
Its doubtful you will stop the leaks with new seals only. Likely your housing and shafts are worn egg-shaped, thus rendering new seals useless.
If you want to go to the expense, you can have the shafts built up and turned and machine the housing out to accept the 430 bushings. This would be the ideal fix.
Other than that, just run the oil level a little low and keep the tractor parked on level ground.

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Jd 420W

04-11-2006 06:01:36




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 Re: 420W lift arm seal replacement in reply to Jennifer Patterson, 04-11-2006 04:42:56  
I just did mine about a month ago. I don't think yours will have the bushings. If not you can expect to need to have the housing bored and put in a bushing or 2, and also expect to have that shaft welded up and turned back to size. You may be lucky and only have to replace the seals, but I doubt that will be the case. Which seals you need depends on if you have the single or dual touch-o-matic. Single I believe uses that same seals. These 2 seals should come from Dere as new style rubber seals. Dual uses these same 2 seals, and also a third seal. This third seal will be a cork seal with a metal ring. This one is a pain to get on right! Your best bet it to oil it up good, place the seal in the ring, get a thin piece of plastic(soda bottle works well) and gently tap it with a hammer down the shaft. Other things to look at would be the seal, or seals (single or dual control) that go where the contrl levers attach to the front of the housing. Once the whole unit is off, it only thakes another gastket a couple seals and a few bolts and pins to get this spot fixed too.

To get the lift arms off, you best bet it to set the whole unit someplace solid, take the 2 bolts off the ends, and hit it hard with hammer. Just hit them where the metal is the thickest. Best thing you can do is get you hands on the tech. manual. It will explain a lot more than you need to know, but you can be sure to not miss something important! Hope this all helps...

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