49 JD A GOVERNOR QUESTION

So it sounds as though the governor is not pulling the speed control rod from the carb to the governor back.

First test I would make would be to disconnect the rod from the carb to the governor, start the tractor and operate the carb butterfly with your left hand, while feeling the governor pull the rod from your right. As you increase the engine speed the governor should pull the rod to your right. If it is, it might be a simple rod length adjustment. It does sould like you have something sticking, misassembled, or binding in the governor.

>>>...I noticed about the governor arm -- it will travel only 1/4" this is not doing anything for the engine speed.

Could be that the governor sleeve which is pushed on one side by the governor weight arms, and the other side by the governor arm lever fork. It should move more than 1/4". Does it pull back at all?

>>>...I did remove the govenor from the tractor. I did line up the marks on gov gear to cam gear. I had a hard time starting the tractor at first so I changed my top and bottom plug wires and it started right up-so I am 180 degrees off.

Doesn't matter. If you want it to be "right", just remove the mag/distributor, turn the engine one turn, and reinstall the mag. That puts it back where you had it originally, or just leave it alone.

>>>I feel that the governor arm is binding up or has to be adjusted in some manor. Is it like a small engine governor where you loosen up the arm on the shaft and rotate the shaft a little then tighten the arm back down?

No.

>>>Do I to remove the governor again from tractor?

Maybe.

>>>Prior to restoring the tractor it ran just fine great even. The ONLY thing changed on the governor was two gaskets- one between the gov and block and the other a home made gasket on the gov side plate (on the flywheel side).

If you installed a homemade gasket here you could have caused a big problem. You could have even caused a binging that will not allow the governor sleeve to slide. Those "gaskets" are shims used to set the mesh of the two fanshaft drive bevel gears. If they are too tight now, you could be chewing up a $300 set of gears. Any noise from the governor that sounds like chewing? If you wiggle a fan blade, how much tip movement do you see? That equates to play in the bevel gears. More is better than less.

I would test for a misadjusted rod, determine the lack of functional governor action, and then see about removing the governor and REALLY adjusting it correctly.

Frank

Did you get radiator gaskets from Deere ? If so that's a good chance of your problem. These are made out of too thin of material and do not seal well. I make mine out of thick gasket material either paper or cork/rubber compound and have had far better luck with these.

I'm trying to understand what you are saying here. Do you mean that the gaskets were too small and you soaked them, and then "worked" them? Or that afer you soaked them they were the correct size? That's a scary thought. If a gasket isn't the correct size dry, I would look around until I found the proper one or make one that would fit.

>>>...Yesterday I filled the radiator up with water no leaks all night. But I run the tractor for 5 minutes the water has not even got hot yet and this new core leaks worse then the original one.

So you filled it water and there were no leaks, but a day later that are leaks. Doesn't sound like a core problem to me. Have you filled it water, or ethylene glycol coolant? Ethylene Glycol is chemically wetter than straight water, so while that could make a difference, I would look closely to see if you are leaking at the top seam at your gasket line and it is dribbling down the radiator and blowing around.

I have used cores from this site and from others such as A&I, and as long as you use the correct gaskets, use some sealant on all faces, epoxy fill any large pits in the tank faces, and drag lap the faces smooth, I have not had a problem. Are you closing the shutters to get the engine wearm? Without a thermostat and on a thermosyphon system, five minutes is not much heating time at all. A car would be barely warmed up at idle in that length of time. If you can work the engine it warm up much faster.

>>>Not real happy with the items I purchased from here. I don't think I should have to use Bars Leaks in a new core, what are your thoughts?

I don't think you should have to add Barr's leaks to a new core installation either, but not having seem your repair, I can't speak to what is the cause of the leaks.

Frank

You shouldn't need to do that to a NEW core.

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