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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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3 way valve packing and clutch leak

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1951g

04-04-2007 07:16:23




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Can someone tell me what I can use on a 3 way valve I bought for my JD H to stop the gas leak? Also, the place to buy the material. Also, my clutch is leaking quite a bit of oil when it runs. I rebuilt everything, but am not sure why I have a pretty good puddle of oil on the concrete right below the clutch pulley.

Thanks in advance for any help with this.




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CalJim

04-04-2007 22:09:45




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 Re: 3 way valve packing and clutch leak in reply to 1951g, 04-04-2007 07:16:23  

I recall an article on reclaiming those fuel
valves by installing o-rings. I thought it was
on Mr. Browning's site. It sounded like a good
fix to me, maybe someone else has more info on
it. CalJim



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P Browning

04-04-2007 08:30:48




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 Re: 3 way valve packing and clutch leak in reply to 1951g, 04-04-2007 07:16:23  
On the issue of the leaking 3-way fuel valve, this is one that's been with us since day one! Have you ever noticed the red rag laying atop the cylinder block of many old tractors? This allows dripping gasoline to be briefly captured while it evaporates! But seriously, fuel leak issues can be controlled. For openers, go to the JD-H Restoration Site and open the selection over on the left side labeled FUEL SYSTEMS.

You didn't say where the fuel is leaking from, the valve itself around the packing nut, or at the fuel line fittings. For leaks at the packing nut, a new D2122R packing (available from Deere) and tightening of the nut usually do the trick. In turn, the switch may be very hard to turn, but this is yet another problem! If the leak stops when you tighten the packing nut but you then aren't able to turn the valve, some polishing is in order -- using the finest compound you can find such as jeweller's rouge. Whatever you do, don't connect a portable drill to the shaft thinking you can polish it quicker -- you run the risk of a burr coming free and scoring the cylinder thus making the valve useless.

SMALL SIDE NOTE: There is to be a thin, brass washer between the packing nut and the D2122R packing without which you will have leaks!

If the leaks are fuel line fitting related, are the fuel line glands (ends) free of burrs and/or foreign material that could be a cause? If these are irregular, renewal is the only solution - available from Robert's Carb and (I believe) also from Deere.

Now -- the biggie: Oil leaking just beneath the belt pulley is most likely a result of gasket breakdown between the AH605R Dust Shield and the reduction gear cover -- at the very lowest spot which is the oil return channel! This is a very common leak, and to get to it, you will need to pull the belt pulley and clutch!

For owners having oil show up at the belt pulley who HAVE NOT recently overhauled everything in the region, this can result from (a) a clogged oil return, and/or (b) excessive water condensed into the main case which (in turn) raises the oil level so high that it cannot return! (PatB)

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1951g

04-04-2007 11:05:19




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 Re: 3 way valve packing and clutch leak in reply to P Browning, 04-04-2007 08:30:48  
Pat,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, the fuel leak is coming from the packing nut. I'll check on the things you mentioned. I'm hoping I can remove the packing nut without removing the entire valve assembly from the sediment bowl. I guess I'm really surprised it's leaking since I bought one that had been rebuilt and polished up nice. I was able to tighten the nut and it slowed the leak but it's still leaking. I'll check to see if the washer is there also.

Regarding the oil leak at the pulley, I'm guessing maybe I tore the gasket when I installed it, because I went through everything when I rebuilt the tractor this year. Guess I'll take it apart again and examine the gasket. Thanks again for your help.

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Mike M

04-05-2007 05:50:46




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 Re: 3 way valve packing and clutch leak in reply to 1951g, 04-04-2007 11:05:19  
You can get those nuts off right on the tractor,but on some it really helps if you make a special wrench. I wish I'd of made one years ago. I just went to TSC and bought a cheapo wrench of the right size. I then cut it off makeing a stubby box wrench then I cut out a section of the box end so I can slip it right on over the control rod and all.



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