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You gotta first decide if you wanna go with the standard original POSITIVE or the cobbled up Negative ground cuz if done right she can still work n charge regardless PROVIDED the VR is compatible with negative ground (many ar bi polar n work either way some may not or may not last as long) It can work with EITHER a 3 terminal (BAT ARM FLD) or a 4 terminal (BAT ARM FLD LOAD) VR regardless how it was originally i.e. they can be interchanged with a few minor wiring modifications WIRING A 4 TERMINAL VR Note, on most the LOAD BAT and FLD are all side by side while the ARM terminal is off on one side or the bottom all by itself..... . ARM on VR to gennys ARM post FLD on VR to gennys FLD post BAT on VR up to the Load (NOT battery/starter) side of ammeter LOAD on VR supplies hot battery voltage to loads like lights n ignition via a wire to the BAT input terminal on the switch. NOTE on a 3 wire VR system, those same loads are served from the Load side of the ammeter, the same terminal where BAT on the VR is wired to. If you change from a 3 to a 4 terminal VR simply rewire the switches BAT input down to the VR's LOAD terminal, although they will still work if you dont use LOAD on the VR and leave loads fed instead off the ammeter like on the 3 terminal VR system. Tractors with original 4 terminal VR wiring have that extra wire from the dash (BAT switch terminal) down to the VR's LOAD terminal unlike 3 terminal VR systems with ONLY the wire from the ammeters load terminal down to BAT on the VR. Once wired n BEFORE starting Polarize by momentarily flash jumping a wire from BAT on VR to the Gennsy ARM post or the VR's ARM terminal if you can get to it. The coil and ammeter are polarity sensitive so if you change polarity from original the ammeter leads need swapped or it reads bass ackwards. The Ignition Coil polarity should match the battery i.e. if at neg ground the coils lil - goes to distributor but if at Pos ground its lil + goes to distributor. John T
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