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Electrical Grounding

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John T

09-17-2007 08:14:39




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ELECTRICAL GROUNDING

Over the years on many many various Tractor Board postings concerning general home n farm AC wiring, I’ve observed a common misunderstanding regarding “grounding” n ground rods etc. which I hope to correct in the interest of safety education and am posting this all over the place.

First of all, it’s the service NEUTRAL that gets bonded to Mother Earth via made grounds like rods driven into the earth or metallic water or gas pipes etc. Out at the electrical pole the Neutrals (if a Y service) on the high voltage primary side are tied to Mother Earth,,,,, the Neutrals on the low voltage (120/240) secondary side of the transformer also get bonded to Mother Earth,,,,, ,,,and finally at the electrical service entrance meter base or the main service entrance panelboard or even up on the riser, its again the Neutral that gets tied to Mother Earth. That’s to keep the services n the grid etc. at one single common voltage reference which Mother Earth provides, albeit not perfect.

So what about the equipment safety ground, the bare/green GROUNDING conductor that is used on three wire appliances and is wired to the outer metal cases on an electric drill or skill saw etc., isn’t it “grounded” ??? Well, it is, but just because at the main service entrance the Neutral Buss and the Safety Equipment Ground Busses are bonded together, therefore, the safety equipment Ground is also tied to Mother earth but nottttt tt for reasons some might think. Since the Neutral conductor is an ordinary current conducting path which happens to be grounded, it’s referred to as a GROUNDED CONDUCTOR while the safety equipment ground (green/bare) is referred to as a GROUNDING CONDUCTOR. The sole purpose of the third wire safety equipment green/bare ground is not so that circuit is tied to Mother Earth n all those ground rods n water pipes, buttttt ttt it’s to provide a dedicated low impedance return current path back to the Neutral (Remember at the panel Neutral and Ground busses are bonded together) in case of a fault (like a hot wire gets shorted to the drill case) so the breaker trips de-energizing the circuit and you don’t die hanging onto the drill. I hear people talking about driving more ground rods and making sure that drill case or appliance or stove etc. is bonded to Mother Earth thinking that alone somehow makes it safe, while its NOT any bond to earth that can save their life, it’s the drill case or stove being bonded to Neutral back at the panel that’s critical. The safety equipment green/bare ground wire is tied to the drills case so if there’s short there’s a dedicated current return path back to the panel to trip the breaker. If you had a drill with a metal case and only a two wire circuit serving it with no third equipment grounding conductor and say you drove a ground rod and attached it to the drills case, you think that would save your life if a hot wire got shorted to the drill case NOOOOO OOOOO OOOOO OOO YOU DIEEEEE EEEEE. The reason is the earth (depends on moisture n mineral content etc. etc.) is a poor high resistance conductor so there wouldn’t be enough return current back to the panel to trip a 20 amp circuit breaker buttttt ttttt tt it only take like 50 milliamps through your old ticker to kill you which that short can continue to supply since there’s no low impedance return current path (like the equipment ground) to trip the breaker.

Sooooo ooo it’s the Neutrals that get tied to Mother Earth and driving rods into the earth to “ground” that equipment grounding conductor isn’t the thing, it’s the fact that it’s bonded to the Neutral and provides a current path back to the panel in case of a short/fault to trip the breaker n save your life that’s important.

Clear as mud lol John T Nordhoff, retired Electrical Engineer in Indiana

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RobMD

09-17-2007 19:49:26




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:14:39  
I've got ground rods at every subpanel around here. I didn't run a 4th wire and keep the neutral and ground separate in my shop. The ground rod is subbing for a ground in my shop panel.

Guessing that that isn't code at all. I feel funny now.



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Jason Z in MO

09-17-2007 12:06:15




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:14:39  
John,

Thank you for this important post! I'm going to "tee" one up for you which I think is very pertinent to our hobby because so many people here have outbuildings that get their power from a common meter base or from the main panel in their house.

Can you explain ground loops and the correct way to wire multiple panels?

Can there be a ground rod at the meter base and main panel or should only one be connected to a rod?

How should a sub-panel be wired if the ground rod is connected to the meter base?

How should a sub-panel be wired if the ground rod is connected to the main panel?

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John T

09-17-2007 12:30:57




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to Jason Z in MO, 09-17-2007 12:06:15  
Youre workin me huh lol, good questions and heres my best shot, but other then the basics I posted above Im a tad rusty if you get me in a corner.....

Can you explain ground loops and the correct way to wire multiple panels?

A ground loop happens when theres a potential voltage difference between 2 points/locations and theres more then one common current path connecting them. In the same building once you bond the grounded Neutral and Equipment Ground busses THEY NEVER REBOND AT SUB PANELS which is why you would carry 4 not just 3 wires (2 Hots, 1 Neutral, 1 Equipment ground) to the sub panel and DO NOT tie the Neutral n Ground busses there. They remain seprate n isolated. Problem is if you do and theres the correct combination of BAD THINGS like open Neutrals and a fault the equipment ground circuit (and the drills n appliances its wired to) could become HOT energized with no return path to trip the breaker n you touch the drill n you dieeeee e

Can there be a ground rod at the meter base and main panel or should only one be connected to a rod?

As I recall you bond the Neutral to earth ONLY ONCE and it can be EITHER the meter base (some have a clamp for the #4 ground wire on the Neutral) orrrrr rrr the main service entrance panel orrrrr rrrr up on the riser weatherhead where the Neutral comes to the home. It depends on the location n utility, I have one on the riser and another in the panel and up the road ones wired into the meter base all from the same utility but installed years apart

How should a sub-panel be wired if the ground rod is connected to the meter base?

Same as above, Neutral n Ground busses tied ONLY at the main service entrance panel and NOT at subs and it dont matter where the Neutral happens to be tied (3 choices above) to earth. NOTE at my neighbors the service entrance and its main disconnect was outside (thats all thats there cuz they ran 400 amps of copper for future expansion with only a 200 amp panel used now) so they ran 4 wires to the main panel n treated it just like a sub panel. The Service Entrance need not necessarily be the main panel, although it usually is in residential applications.

How should a sub-panel be wired if the ground rod is connected to the main panel?

Same as above, run 2 hots and a Neutral and an equipment ground to the sub and keep Neutral n ground seperate there. Again it dont matter where the Neutral was bonded to earth.....

Whewwwww w hope this is all correct n it helps

John T

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Mike M

09-17-2007 11:55:22




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:14:39  
Our antique tractor club once went on a tour of this fellow who had his own gas well and ran his own generators. He made his electric to feed his shop and some other houses. Originally used a very old and large 1 cyl. engine for years then moved up to multi cyl. ones. anyhow one guy with the club worked for an electric co. looked at his system and said it could NEVER WORK as he only had 1 wire running overhead for distribution. Guy said ok,but I've been doing it for x? amount of years.

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