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That's why I said that part about the actuator cam and pins not moving the actuator valve poppet completely. Now, remember that the power steering does not assist until you meet a resistance to turning that makes you over come the spring load of the cams to pins to face. For example, if you jack the front end off the ground, there is basically no resistance, so when you turn the steering wheel, all you have to turn is the shaft, then the worm, then the vertical shaft, with wheels attached. You have manual steering onl since your force required to tunr the wheel is less than the force to slip the spring-loaded cam joint. If you meet a resistance, like the wheels in a furrow, you have to turn the steering wheel harder, which turns the shaft, but the spring loaded cam cannot turn the wheels, so the steering shaft turns while the wheels stay stationary (if not for an instant), the cam slips, the pins ride up the face, push on the actuator valve lever, oil flows, the cylinder gets a boost, and the wheels turn until they reach the position that you were calling for, and everything goes to the point of equilibrium, no oil flowing into the cylinder. I think you have more spring load resistance in the cam right now than you can generate by turning the wheels on the surfaces that you have been testing on. If you turn the wheels extreme left or right, then relax the grip on the wheel, then force the steering wheel again in that direction, with the wheels against that stop, which is the ultimate in resistance, you should be able to feel if the steering shaft is moving but the wheels stay extreme. Since the wheels cannot turn any further, you should be able to feel and see if the steering shaft rotates a bit as it slips up the cam. Judge how hard you have to force it to make go up or down that cam face. That's your culprit I bet. So maybe for a test, loosen that spring load up quite a bit and see if it tracks up and down that cam easily, and if it does the steering should work. Then you'll just have to try to bring that spring pressure up to a point where the steering is sensitive and responsive, but not sloppy or slow. You can try to get a feel for that distance and force that it takes withthe engine off as well. Turn the wheel, no assist because the pump is n ot turning, so you know it is all on your steering wheel. You should be able to feel and judge the force that it is taking to side up that cam. And then go try that on your "good" tractor. That should be a good comparison test. I sure would like to hear about anyone's other solutions. It is, after all, a discussion board, and everyone could benefit from a new fix printed here. I hope you guys will elaborate in public for the benefit of all. I know typing this stuff is a pain, but please try. A telephone call might fix this one time occurrence, but once you guys take it off line, there's no way for the rest of us to stay current, and no real reason to try. We'd probably be suggesting that you re-plow ground that you had already covered privately. Good luck Rich, either way. Frank
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