JD 730 Oil not getting to govenor

For the money, the I&T is not all that bad, especially if you have the parts manaul on hand. I have the proper Deere service manual for my 70D, and it is real nice, but if you have been around equipment at all, and have an above average aptitude for mechanical repairs, the I&T is not bad. In fact, it is pretty good on systems like power steering that are not included in the main Deere service manual. Just remember, those books seem expensive until you need them. Otherwise, you'll pay someone a half a manual an hour to do that work.....

Frank

Joe:

You did not say whether it is gas or diesel, so I will comment on the diesel version. If that is not correct, we'll address the gas issue later, though the two governors by design are pretty much the same. I am on the road, so I cannot run out and look at my 70D for reference, but I have incoluded a parts book page. If I recall correctly, the oil comes up from the block through a port in the main case, then past the gasket and into the oil gallery of the governor. That could be incorrect because of my poor memory, as it could be supplied by the oiling tube number 44. Either way, once inside the oil gallery there should be a small-ish spray hole that directs pressure oil onto the central portion of the governor shaft. When the shaft spins, the gear hubs and weights sling it all over the interior, oiling the open-faced bearings. Sometimes that hole can becomne occluded, and that can lead to the lack of proper oiling. Then again, it could be the case that you have a worn out set of gears. When I went looking for a new set for my 70D rebuild, they were no longer available, so here's hoping that you can salvage the ones you have or find a usable set. I like to set those gears in the governor, and run them in using a drill press off the tractor. You can really get them to wring in well and have a factory clearance when you are done. If your tractor has power steering it makes the task even easier because you have the small fan shaft drive stub instead of the entire fan shaft to contend with.

Frank

>>Yes it is a diesel, and it has power steering. Is the nozzle the number 42?>>

No. #42 is just the pipe coupling that connects the tubing to the governor case.

>>Could I put a pressure gauge in-line and take a reading? This would only assure that is has oil getting to the line, but not perhaps inside.>>

Yes. You could also try to blow some air into that fitting and if air escapes into the governor case you’d know that the port was at least partially clear.

>>I hope I do not have bad gears. However if they were bad wouldn’t I have a constant noise from them?>>

You would think so. You might just have a cranky bearing that gets noisy when it gets hot, but it sure sounds to me like you’ll have to go inside to know for sure.

>> From the diagram, would you just attempt to lift the entire assembly from the engine to service?

Yes.

>>Would anything be gained from removing the cover #2 in the diagram?>>

I don’t think so. The flywheel might be in the way to prevent you from extracting the assembly out of the left end. Then you have to work your way around the governor lever and shaft, and eventually you’ll still need to be able to set the gears and that’s better done on the bench.

>>Then for reinstallation is there any timing that needs to be done? >>

No. Nothing in there has to be timed to the crank or cam. It just spins.

>>I am not in front of my tractor, but i am pretty sure even with power steering I have a fan shaft to contend with. Yep, went and looked at the tractor. Different than your pic, my governor case is cast into the block and does not come off.>>

I have never seen a governor design on a 730 other than the one I posted. Take another look and see if it looks like this on a 70D. I’m pretty sure yours is configured as a separate governor case, not cast into the block.

>>And yes I have a fan shaft to deal with. Do you know the best way to go about servicing my setup?>>

I would remove the hood, maybe the tank, the pony if equipped, and fuel transfer pump so that you’ll have plenty of room to work. The assembly will just lift off, but after many years be prepared to have to pry it loose, so make sure you have EVERY bolt out before you do.

Inspect everything for wear, and look the gear tips over for burr edges. If the gears are really worn, but can be saved, there are several things that you can do. One is to grind the sharp tips and rolled edge burrs form the teeth cusps. What happens is that on worn gears, when you bring the heel adjustment in the tips touch the troughs of the gears and that is where noise comes from. The tips should never bottom out, so grind them back for clearance. If you have horses, you'll recognize this as "floating" teeth. Once the tips are clear (a little Prussian blue will show if they are touching down there), you can set the heel and lash, then go to the wringing procedure.

Attach the stub shaft assembly to the governor case, and set it by shimming to factory clearance on heel and lash. Slowly turn the stub shaft to drive the governor shaft and listen for interference that can cause horrific noises at rated speed. High spots will reveal themselves as shiny areas. Make sure the gear tips are not bottoming out. Once you have determined that there are no major interferences, hook a large drill to the stub shaft, or chuck it into a drill press. Turn it slowly at first and add a bit of oil if it starts getting warm. What you’re doing here is having the gears wring together to make a new mating form. You’ll probably have to repeat this several times, adjusting the clearance each time, until the gears run quietly when at factory clearance. As a final touch, clean the gears with ether or MEK, apply some Prussian Blue, and roll them through by hand to see how they contact. If you do this correctly, you’ll save the gears and probably never have to check or set them again. The gear sets take a lot of abuse and most never get inspected or reset at overhauls. 50 years later, we have to develop work-arounds just to make the old gears serviceable again. The setting of the gears is just like setting a ring and pinion in a rear end, so if you want to learn more about that, just look it up in an older Motors or Chilton’s manual.

Too bad everyone who owns one of these tractors doesn't get the available Operator's,Parts,and Service manuals and READ through them all. They are worth their weight in gold to me.