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'48 A John Deere

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Wayne

09-24-2000 16:46:00

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I have had the motor rebuilt. Can anyone tell me the correct procedure to break in the motor. I'm sure there is probably a procedure that needs to be followed to avoid damaging the motor.

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Dave kolby

09-30-2000 07:49:55

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Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to Wayne, 09-24-2000 16:46:00

I would like to comment on some of the posts in this thread about idling JD 2-cylinders. I have farmed with them since the 40's and never had any problems with running them less than full throttle. It is true that the cylinders are splash lubed. However, anyone who has run the engine with the crankcase cover removed or even loose well knows that those journals throw LOTS of oil at idle! I would like to know how many arm chair farmers here ever tried hand loading bales on a hay wagon, walking alongside, with the JD at full throttle in first gear!

Dave

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clooney

09-24-2000 18:53:14

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Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to Wayne, 09-24-2000 16:46:00

Wayne, fill the crankcase with either 10w (my favorite) or 20w quality oil, then start it & run at part throttle & check for oil pressure, leaks & noises, then use it at a reduced load & very the engine speed. Don't lug it, don't idle it slow for extended periods & don't work it at full load for 15-20 hours. During the first few hours keep an eye on the coolant temp & listen for any abnormal noises. Check the engine oil often & after about 10 hours change the oil & filter & install the oil of your choice, it wouldn't hurt to check the valve adjustment then either. Above all else don't add any oil additives that could keep the rings from seating. If it had a new cam or cam followers installed don't let it slow idle for at least a half hour on initial start-up or you chance galling the cam.

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zane

09-24-2000 18:07:46

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Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to Wayne, 09-24-2000 16:46:00

I think this is the first time ever I don't completely agree with John T.

I would suggest that you first run the engine slow to establish oil pressure, then go to a fast idle (NO LOAD)for a while to seat the rings. On this (horizontal) engine the upper cylinder walls depend for lubrication on oil slung (by contrifugal force) from the cranks. At slow engine speeds, this source of lubrication is minimal. I'm sure this is the main reason JD always encouraged that their Waterloo 2-pops be run wide open.

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John T (zane Dave are right)

09-25-2000 07:41:15

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Re: Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to zane, 09-24-2000 18:07:46

Hey zane long time no see ya on here. You are right as rain, those tractors were designed to run at full load rpm not idle not even half rpm. I think the numbered series were the first to advertise an advantage of a full rpm operation range versus full throttle only like the early tractors. When I assemble an engine, I use a product called Assembly Lube (made by Siloo ??) and coat everything then top off with plenty of oil so shes gets oil at the initial slow start up. I hate to run em too fast for a while though, when them new bearings are so tight, so I idle em first a good little bit. I think the main thign is not to try and break in all at one speed. I agree with you 100% that once youre sure they are gonna run and not seize up, it takes some rpm to properly lube the tops of the cylinder walls. Later zane Ol John T

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Mike

09-27-2000 12:01:15

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Re: Re: Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to John T (zane Dave are right), 09-25-2000 07:41:15

Don't know much about A's but my G has an oil pump in it. The only reason I know this is the coupler down in the bottom of crancase broke one day last winter and I lost all my oil pressure. I changed the coupler and wella my pressure was back. Mike

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Dave 2N

09-25-2000 06:57:54

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Re: Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to zane, 09-24-2000 18:07:46

I agree with Zane. I don't think a real slow idle is good for the JD 2 cylinders even after they are broken in. The horizontal nature of the cylinders requires some rpm's to lubricate the top of the piston.

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John T

09-24-2000 17:04:08

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Re: '48 A John Deere in reply to Wayne, 09-24-2000 16:46:00

I like to break them in starting at very very slow rpm a long time then eventually revving her a little faster (not wide open for a long long time) but its best to use varying speeds for break in, not just all idle or all fast. After u shop run her a while, then at least drive or load her a little lightly at first instead of all just setting there. Monitor the oil pressure and temp pretty careful at first. After you have several hours on her, then change the break in oil and filter cause it may contain alot of small metal filings and metal. I use light oil for break in like 20W then change to 10w30 etc. Break in is important cause its then that the roughened honed cylinders wear to match the rings and the rings seat in for good compression. John T

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