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If price was no object, get a 6000 or 7000 series tractor. They have far and away the best hydraulics, engines, powertrain, and operator stations of ANYTHING on the market today. A 4240 would also be a good choice. Check the oil pump drive gear lash (behind the tach drive housing, right side of motor). More that 3 degrees deflection means new camshaft and drive gear. Check the sump screen for metal and brake material. Make sure the final drives have NO slack. If the former owner used COOP transmission oil (green stuff), I would reconsider that tractor. I work on Deeres for a living and have put in a lot of ring and pinions, hydraulic pumps, and SCV overhauls due to wear, while a tractor using John Deere HyGard with the same or more hours will be in good shape inside. If you are looking for a loader tractor, keep in mind that the 20 series Synchro-Range tractors may not be the best choice for this application UMLESS the hydraulic system is in good shape. The charge pump only turns on these tractors when the clutch is released. A small high pressure to sump leak inside the tractor will quickly drain the oil cooler and reservoir for the main hydraulic pump, leaving you with no hydraulics, steering, or brakes. The leaks are not a big problem with the clutch out other that heating the oil, but little leaks are a big deal with the clutch pushed in. Small internal leaks are sometimes hard to find and correct. Powershift tractors are not affected by this problem.
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