Here is a series of follow-ups from last fall when I posted this same question. There may be alot to read but I hope it helps. Good Luck, Tom P Archives: Posted by Tom P on October 18, 2000 at 06:05:37 from (32.96.48.4): I tried the advise I received a couple of days ago about this problem. Another person also recommended hitting the end of the axle. The problem I've discovered now, is that it seems like the one jack screw was not turning all the way in. So I tried to back it out to lube the threads but even with a long breaker bar, I could not get it to turn out. Should I try heat on the bolt or on the hub?? Thanks for any help. Posted by WTW on October 18, 2000 at 12:09:10 from (192.43.65.245): In Reply to: 4020 Rear Wheel Spacing posted by Tom P on October 18, 2000 at 06:05:37:
Tom, Here is a way I have done it with the circumstances that you have (before and after the wedge or bolt was broken). First, loosen the three bolts on the inside of the wheel just enough to relieve the lock washers under the heads of them. Second, jack up the tractor far enough to suspend the wheel that you are moving off the ground. Third, block off the end of the final drive axle housing edge with heavy iron bars or plate (must be iron not wood). Block right up as close as you can get to the heads of the bolts (will require different amounts of block height depending on how far the wheels are out on the axle). Fourth, continue to back out the three inner bolts against the iron blocks with an open end wrench. Use the best wrench that you have and tighten all three bolts until you either move the wheel off the wedges or you can not turn them anymore. In the event that the wheel does not move and you have the three inner bolts as tight as you can get them, Strike the end of the axle with the heaviest mall you can swing. after two or three licks tighten the inner bolts some more. this should eventually move the wheel off the axle. What you are doing instead of forcing one wedge out of the wheel with two bolts, you are forcing the wheel off both wedges with three bolts. After you get it off and you are ready to reinstall be sure to tighten the inner stationary wedge in the wheel first. A little time spent doing it this way, but it usually works and sometimes you have no other choice. Good Luck!! Dave W. Posted by Greg H. on October 18, 2000 at 09:46:56 from (129.71.222.254): In Reply to: 4020 Rear Wheel Spacing posted by Tom P on October 18, 2000 at 06:05:37:
don't get carried away with your breaker bar, the pinnion bolt will break, and even though they don't cost alot, that's just something else you'd have to fix. When I move mine I find that loosening the bolts on the face of the hub are never enough, and even with getting the bottom wedge moved backwards, the wheel always moves easier if I loosen the bolts on the back of the hub as well freeing up the top wedge slightly. The down side is that it's a booger to get thos back bolts tightened back up to the correct torque. Greg H. Posted by Greg H. on October 19, 2000 at 10:12:59 from (129.71.222.254): In Reply to: Re: Re: 4020 Rear Wheel Spacing posted by Tom P on October 18, 2000 at 11:01:41: Okay Kids don't try this at home. I'm just kidding theres a couple ways that I have gotten the wedges loose, and both of them might be considered fairly dumb, or dangerous, but they have worked. loosen the bottom hub bolts that keep the bottom wedge in place. drive your tractor out into the barn lot say in 5th gear, clutch it and slam on the brakes every now and again, and lock up the wheel on the side thats stuck, and turn the tractor in that direction. this usually breaks up the rust in short order, but I wouldn't do this unless you have your ring on the end of the axle. secondly if that doesn't work, I have used a piece of well drillers pipe, I'm unsure of the diamiter, due to not having it in front of me. I took 1/2 an inch off half the circumference of the end of the pipe. This left a 1/2 inch lip stiking out on that pipe, that was half it's diamiter. I then had a very trusting friend hold that lip up against the bottom wedge of the hub, and proceeded to pound the living crap out of the bottom wedge until it moved. then I loosened the back bolts for the top wedge, and after the allication of penitrating oil I was able to move the jack screws inward pushing the wedge farther back, and was then able to use the pinion gear to move the wheel back and forth on the rack of the axle. Later Greg H. Posted by zane on October 18, 2000 at 17:01:09 from (216.128.140.174): In Reply to: Re: Re: 4020 Rear Wheel Spacing posted by Tom P on October 18, 2000 at 11:01:41:
You don't have to back the jackscrew all the way out. Back it out as far a possible and then squirt motor oil up into the threads. Use penetrating oil on both sides of the wheel, and tap the casting lightly to help the penetrating oil work. When fully screwed in, the jackscrews should be up to the mark on their head. At that point, the wedge should be out, at least a little, and, with a little more penetrating oil in the right places, the pinion should be able to move the casting. I'm assuming you've got the wheel jacked up off the ground.
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