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1940 model b jd

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robert abel

01-28-2002 09:51:58




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motor is stuck. what do i do?




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Paul from MI

01-28-2002 16:13:52




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 Re: 1940 model b jd in reply to robert abel, 01-28-2002 09:51:58  
Robert,
First rule--go slow, be patient. The first thing to do is remove the rocker arms and push rods. This will keep you from breaking rocker arms if the valves are stuck too. Now I'm assuming its been stuck a while and a litlle rocking the flywheel by hand hasn't worked. Usually if an engine is stuck, you find the rings stuck fast to the pistons. Simply getting it free and turning over doesn't mean it's going to run right afterwards. My method is spend a few bucks for some new gaskets, take it apart and free up those stuck pistons one at a time. Remove the cylinder head, valves probably need ground any way. Take the rod bearings loose. It's a good idea to check for proper clearance with some plastigage and mike the journals for roundness. Then remove cylinders, pistons and rods as a unit. Now you can try several ways to get the pistons free. I usually stand the block upright on a suitable saw horse or other support, fill the cylinders with your favorite penetrant or diesel or what ever. Wait a few days and see if it will soak past the pistons. I have heard of guys putting kerosene or diesel on top of the pistons and lighting it to create some heat to assist, but not tried it myself. The top end of the cylinders above the rings is where all the crap and crud that made it stick in the first place is. You can get the pistons out easily only one direction, that's down. This is why it was necessary to remove the block. You can push pretty hard on a cast iron John Deere piston if you put all of the force at the outside edge of the head of the piston so the force is directly over the piston rings & skirt, which is the parts that are stuck to the cylinder wall. I use a pice of round stock a little smaller than the bore and about 1" thick. Then you can drive on it with a sledge and wood block or put the whole block assembly in a hydraulic press and shove out the pistons. I put 8-1/2 tons on "D" pistons without damaging them this way. Then you'll have to remove the rings, check ring grooves, clean everything up and re-assemble the engine. I would spring for some new rings, just because.
This takes some time but you'll know what you have on the inside and you won't break transmission parts, spring crankshafts, bend rods or any other really nasty stuff. Plus it'll run right when you are done, with good compression and no knocking. LOL Paul

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Frank

01-28-2002 10:05:31




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 Re: 1940 model b jd in reply to robert abel, 01-28-2002 09:51:58  
Robert:

You'll probably get more detailed responses if you tell a bit more about the situation.

Such as:

Stuck: How long ? Some stick over one damp winter, others have sat outside for twenty years. Sometime the recommended method to unstick are quite different based on how the sticking circumstances.

You might try and search this board for the topic stuck engine. You'll get suggestions ranging from filling the cylinders with Coca-Cola, to brake fluid, to ATF, to diesel fuel.

Now my favorite place to start is put as much diesel fuel into the cylinders through the plug holes as she'll hold. Then walk away for several days. I have already taken the tappet assembly off so the valves are close, and hooked my air compressor through spark plug fittings, and applied pressure to this diesel fuel for a week or so. This tends to blow the diesel past the rings, driving out moisture, and lubing things up. Sometimes I would jack up one rear wheel, and with the tractor in gear, try to rock it a bit. The reverse gearing affect can help in applying pressure to the engine parts, without undue stress.

I don't recommend pulling it or you'll break something. Some suggect that you take one rod loose so you're only working on one piston at a time.

Good luck !

You'll be sure to get lots more suggestions.

Frank

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JDRegg

01-30-2002 06:52:06




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 Re: Re: 1940 model b jd in reply to Frank, 01-28-2002 10:05:31  
Robert, I had the same situation with my 41 "B" when I went to restore it. I removed the head and squirted all around the pistons and in the spark plug holes with P B penetrating fluid. Then I would put it in gear and rock the tractor back and forth, but not too hard as to break something.
I repeated this for about three days, doing about three soakings a day. It finally broke loose. Much to my dismay the cylinder walls had pitted beyond a simple honing. Since my pistons were in good shape and I already had the rings on them, I opted for another block. So I have a good block that needs boring to the next size if any one is interested.

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