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Changing hub position on a 38 rim... Questions??

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Jim-bo

02-27-2002 06:31:56




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I am changing the hub position of my rims on my 730 diesel. The old farmer who had it used it to cultivate. The rear hubs are on the outer position on the rims and I want to put fenders on my tractor so the wheel needs to be moved out on the hub to make space for the fender. (The rims are not the spin adjust kind they just have two raised rings that you can attatch the hub to) I once did this on a 3020 years ago and I remember it was a pain. Does anyone have any suggestions before I start? If memmory serves me right I broke several of the bolts that go through the hub trying to loosen them. Also, does John Deere still carry the square head bolts like the originals? My dealer tried to sell me hex head grade 8 bolts which arent like the originals. But it should be a fun job considering that the tires have fluid in them. Any suggestions or shared experiences would be a help. Thanks

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ChuckW

02-27-2002 13:09:15




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 Re: Changing hub position on a 38 rim... Questions?? in reply to Jim-bo, 02-27-2002 06:31:56  
with the fluid, I would recommend using a small chain and chain the wheels together so that the wheel cannot fall over on the ground, It may want to fall towards the tractor however you definitely don't want it to fall on the ground....unless you have a heavy lifter. I use a lifter and hold the tire upright and work it to the desired position. Also use a torch on the nuts to avoid breaking and stripping....also get some help.

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Mike Aylward

02-27-2002 07:11:52




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 Re: Changing hub position on a 38 rim... Questions?? in reply to Jim-bo, 02-27-2002 06:31:56  
Jimbo, it is not as hard a job as you might think if you follow a few procedures. If you can get the bolts to come out of the wheel casting you are almost there. Lift up the tractor so the tire is just about, but not quite off the ground and remove all but the top bolt and rim clamp, but loosen it leaving the nut on it. Slide the bottom of the rim to the position it needs to be, then let your jack down just a little so the top rim clamp comes away from the rim. Lean the top of the rim either in or out as needed then jack up the tractor so the rim clamp contacts the bevel on the rim. Insert the remaining clamps being sure the drive notches on the rim are under a clamp and tighten evenly to keep the wheel straight. I always set a block and a pointer beside the rim and spin it over to check for wobble when I get the rim nearly tight. It is often necessary to have to loosen and tighten opposite clamps to get the wheel straight. But it is necessary. I like to keep the wheels within 1/8" of runout, and "0" is better...:-) After you have done it a few times it is no big deal. Hope this helps. Mike

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Mike

02-27-2002 10:25:58




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 Re: Re: Changing hub position on a 38 rim... Questions?? in reply to Mike Aylward, 02-27-2002 07:11:52  
ditto on that!!! first double bevel rim I changed was a nightmare and took 1/2 a day! Now I can change em in half an hr and get em true. No big secret except draw em all down even and tighten opposite nuts; that is snug down 12 o'clock bolt, then snug 6 o'clock bolt; then snug 10 o'clock bolt etc etc



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1ylcub

02-27-2002 20:15:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Changing hub position on a 38 rim... Questions?? in reply to Mike, 02-27-2002 10:25:58  
I just moved my rims this winter and replaced all the square head bolts and nuts with new ones from Fastenal (hardware vender). I believe the nuts were called heavy walled nuts to match the orginals. I think this cost me $20. for everthing.



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