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JD M tractor questions, wheels

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John Glowa

03-19-2002 05:11:12




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Hello to everyone here, I appreciate your help and insight greatly. I have always been interested in old tractors but have never owned one (my greatgrandfather ran 'em all, Deere's, Massey's, Farmall's). I am interested in buying an M now, one in particular. It is owned by a second owner who purchased it along with the farm in about 65 or so. He hasn't run it since the mid 80's when he stopped cutting firewood on the cordwood saw. It won't start now so a guy is coming out to get it running (he thinks that the starter is stuck). Anyhow, the tractor needs paint, possibly a rear rim, 4 new tires, seat frame and pads. The goods are that he swears it runs excellent and the sheet metal is about perfect all over. He refuses to take less than $1500 for it, am I right in thinking that thats a bit high? After just the tires and rim alone I'll be well over 2k... Now a technical question- It appears to me that the rims on this tractor are inverted, that is to say that the left was switched to the right to get a wider stance? It makes the wheel look like a deep well and sets the tire off from the tractor a bit. Did some M's come this way or did someone just play around a bit? (or am I wrong and this was an origional deep welled wheel?)
Any help with other things to check would be very much appreciated, hopefully it will be running soon.
Thanks alot,
John Glowa
Maine

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JH

03-19-2002 08:20:34




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 Re: JD M tractor questions, wheels in reply to John Glowa, 03-19-2002 05:11:12  
Depends upon the application and use of the tractor. Mounted one way you get 38" or 42" spacing, depending on the lug you use. Mounted on the opposite hub, you can get either 48" or 52" spacing. The valve stem is on the narrow side, so if you elect 48/52" spacing, the valve stem will be on the inboard side of the rim. I run 52" spread on my M for finish mowing on unlevel terrain to keep from rolling over, and for cultivating vine crop set up on wider rows, pumpkins and such. For vine crop planted closer together, a narrower setting is better. In order to scratch out the middles on pumpkins, my rear cultivators are modified with extra gangs(4/side)of springs and shovels. For narrower applications I have standard rears, (2). I have seen Ms go for as little as $1100 for a fair tractor, to 2000-2500 for junk, and 4500 or so for one well restored. You'll have to be the best judge on that. Key points to look at are these: wiring brittle or broken, engine free and good compression, drawbar and asssociated components in tact, that the rims are not rusted through, the fenders and foot plates aren't rotted, no pin holes in the exhaust manifold, not rusted out in the battery box, the front steering box shouldn't have too much slop when turning the wheel(I've seen them so bad that it takes nearly half a turn of the wheel to begin to steer the front), sheet metal condition obviously, belt and hoses okay, you mentioned tire condition, does it have weights, does the lift or associated hydraulic pump/lines seep oil, fuel tank condition, radiator leaks, clutch and brakes, you get the idea. How much money you expect to spend in repairs impacts how much you are willing to pay. You can contact Riley Tractor in Wauseon, OH for replacement rims at a reasonable price, but there are several other places out there that have good used rims as well. Front rubber will run you about $45-50 per side, rear rubber between $125-150 for standard tread or as much as $400 each for a turf style tread. There are a lot of guys on this site that can help you find what you need if you buy the trator and run into a problem, don't be afraid to ask. $1500 is probably a fair price. Do you get any implements,(cultivators, belly mower, plow, or disk) with the tractor? If so, it is probably a good buy. Good luck.

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John Glowa

03-19-2002 09:52:45




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 Re: Re: JD M tractor questions, wheels in reply to JH, 03-19-2002 08:20:34  
Thanks alot for the fast response! Whether I do end up getting the tractor or not, I will eventually find one and this forum is DEFINATELY the place to go with my questions (and I'll have a ton). Nothing beats experience in whatever it is that you do!
As far as the wheels/rims go, there are no weights and I'm sure now that you're set up this way, that the wheels are "reversed" for wider stance. The tractor doesn't come with anything in the way of implements, there is a cordwood saw with it but from past experience, I don't want anything to do with it or them. There was a 2-board plow half buried in hay lying near it but the owner didn't mention anything about it. He also has a B and it may go with that tractor. It looks then like I'm going to have to wait for that mechanic to get it running and see what's up with the "running" gear. If everything stacks up, I'll end up getting it.
Thanks for the help and any insight,

John G.
Maine

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Ralph Ia

03-19-2002 10:52:05




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 Re: Re: Re: JD M tractor questions, wheels in reply to John Glowa, 03-19-2002 09:52:45  
If that plow is a M-1 or a M-2, it isn't any good to use with a B. So try to get that also.



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