1020 flywheel question HELP!!!!

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I'm not sure how you're seeing the flywheel turn, unless you're looking at it thru the timing cover.

My first inclination is that the Bendix gear -- the gear from the starter motor that engages the flywheel is just trashed out. That's the easiest thing to replace.

In a 1020, the ring gear -- the gear the starter engages on the flywheel -- is on the north side, that is towards the engine. It looks like a separate piece in my tech manual, and might have broken free of the flywheel. The only alternative is that the 4 bolts and 4 pins that secure the flywheel to the crank have all broken loose at once....which is (I hope) the least likely case... otherwise the engine would turn with the flywheel.

If there is a flywheel problem, you're going to have to split the tractor. The Bendix gear just requires pulling the starter motor. You might also pull the round inspection cover that's on the left side of the housing, just behind the clutch and under the battery box. It should give you a better view of what's going on in there.

I'm guessing you don't have a service manual, so let me know if you need any text or exploded drawings from the manual sent to you.

Steve

Mark,

Here's the exploded view of the clutch you asked for. This is the 2 stage, live PTO clutch -- which I'm guessing is the one you have.

I agree, it doesn't make much sense that the flywheel would suddenly come unglued from the crank. And I did have some small Ford car engines -- 1600 Kents -- that had the ring gear on the flywheel with pins and spot welds. Doesn't make much sense that it would come loose either -- but if the Bendix gear is OK, there aren't many other alternative theories.

Sorry the picture is about 1/4 of a meg. Wanted you to be able to read the legends.

Steve

The ring gear around the flywheel stays in place simply by expansion and contraction. When you replace the ring gear, you heat the ring gear to get it off with a torch or pound it off with a hammer.

You then take the new ring gear (only about $20 from mother deere) and put it in your oven at 400 degrees for about 30 minutes. This heats it up and causes it to expand. Clean the flywheel well and then quickly place the new ring gear on the flywheel, using oven mitts. It will fall in place, cool, contract, and grab on to the flywheel where it is almost impossible to move.

My thoughts on your problem - the entire ring gear could have come loose (which could happen if it wears enough around the flywheel) or it is stripped, or the gear in the starter is striped.

Either way (except for the striped gear on the starter) you will have to split the tractor in half. This is not easy, but can be done in an afternoon.

Good luck and let me know!!!!

Mark,

There are 4 exploded clutch drawings in my service manual. Disregarding the 1530 and 2030 clutches, the only one with a diiferent looking flywheel is the single stage clutch drawing -- the PTO and drive gears engage at the same time. Is that what you've got?

The module under the dash is probably the voltage regulator. The only other box under there is the flasher for the left rear amber light.

Yes, they're 12 Volts negative ground, and your Deere dealers still has or can get parts for them -- there is one guy at our dealer who has a soft spot in his heart for 1020's and 2020's, and who actually worked on them when they were new. Mine is a '66, so it's older than most of the people working there now. Ha.

The only thing I have that's close to a wiring diagram is the charging circuit, and another drawing of the back of the key switch. Other than that; the 4 lights, two idiot lights and the cigarette lighter aren't covered. Here's the charging circuit. Let me know if you need anything else.

Steve

I'd think tack welds are the way to go. A purist might say you're upsetting the balance of the flywheel/crank -- but it doesn't rev that high. Somebody with a long stick on a MIG welder might be able to fix it thru the starter hole....just make sure it gets on straight.

The diagram is for the Motorola alternator. That's what mine has, and it's older than yours. That one wire you see may be a cable bundle that splits out behind a back cover of the alternator. From memory, on mine there are two separate cables coming out of the firewall -- one cable to the alternator, one to the starter. Can't remember any connection from the alternator to the starter, but I can double check tonight.

Steve

The I&T service manual I have only covers Motorola and Bosch alternators. I think the Bosch was only used on the 1530 built in Mannheim Germany. So I think the Delco may be a mod you won't find in any service manual. They have manuals on this site, or you might find one at your local John Deere dealer, or you might find on on ebay.

The tank you're talking about is a cooling tank/ reservoir for the main hydraulic pump below it -- the pump that is driven from the front of the crank. You don't have to fill it, just make sure it doesn't leak. You fill the hydraulics thru the hole behind the seat. There are return lines going to the main pump, the power steering pump, and the tranny pump.

Steve

No problem, you're welcome. I've had my 1020 for over 20 years... so I've gotten to know it a fairly well... or maybe I've forgotten most of what I've gotten to know about it. In any event, good luck with yours. They are good tractors.

Steve